S.A.& A.P. Maintenance of Way builds

Discussion in 'Maintenance of Way' started by SAFN SAAP, Jul 15, 2012.

  1. Oldguy

    Oldguy Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

    Couldn't you do a small test patch, like underneath the tank, with the paint to see if the wood grain shows?
     
  2. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

    Possibly. Using a flat metallic paint, even thinned down, builds up quickly. I see what I can do.
     
  3. Sirfoldalot

    Sirfoldalot Frisco.org Supporter Frisco.org Supporter

    Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

    Sigh .. I tried
     
  4. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

    I'm not ignoring what you said Sherrel. I can only work with what I have, and right now, without a vehicle, I can't go anywhere to get stuff.
     
  5. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

    Second tank came out much better. Multiple coats of sanding sealer, 220, 320, and 0000 steel wool did the trick. Paint is drying right now, so I'll have pics up in morning.
     
  6. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

    Well,

    The tank is dry and mounted to the car. It came out pretty good. Some of the scrapes I made from removing crooked rivet lines showed up. That's alright. Weathering opportunities, right Jim? Anyway, I'll be ordering up new domes from Precision Scale that look better than the old Red Ball domes. I'm starting to decal the tank with what I have. I'm waiting on the rest to come from Rail Graphics.

    Oh, this time I used painters tape to draw lines for the rivets on the tank. Works great and no residue. I did notice though that MicroMarks rivets are not as clean as they should be. You'll notice some are connected, which means the molding process was NOT a success. I'm going to get some Archers for the next car and compare them. I bet the Archers are much better.

    Once all the decals are on, this car will be rusted up with Bragdon's pigments, and receive washes of rust and India Ink for oil/fuel/kerosene stains.

    Manny

    DSCN2292.JPG DSCN2293.JPG DSCN2294.JPG DSCN2303.JPG DSCN2304.JPG DSCN2305.JPG
     
  7. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

    That's looking very good so far. Can't wait to see it all weathered up and ready for service.
     
  8. Sirfoldalot

    Sirfoldalot Frisco.org Supporter Frisco.org Supporter

    Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1


    When I made this suggestion to Manny I was not thinking correctly!
    I mixed TALCUM POWDER with the sanding sealer -
    Not corn starch!

    Sorry about the mixup.

     
  9. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

    No problem Sherrel. It's all good!
     
  10. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

    It's amazing how waiting on one little part can throw a whole project off kilter. I've had to shift towards non-box style MOW cars for awhile as I await a most needed part to arrive. I've started making a few LaBelle 1880's/early 1890's tank cars for the S.A.&A.P. MOW service. Historically, the S.A.&A.P. had a host of these type cars which were replaced by the newer steel style and hi-walk tank cars of the 1900-1910 period. Many of these were shifted to MOW service while the rest were scrapped.

    As previously mentioned I used the MicroMark rivets. They are a huge improvement over the wrap that LaBelle gives you. Here the car is decaled for MW 121, Lubricating Oil Only, Capacity 8000 gallons. The dome has yet to be applied. That's because the PSC cast brass ones arrived today, and I think make a huge improvement. I need to give it a vinegar bath and then paint it. I'm undecided between black or yellow.

    To follow, 20 years of rust and oil stains through liquids and powders will be given to really age this car. More work to come tomorrow...

    Manny

    DSCN2326.JPG DSCN2328.JPG DSCN2329.JPG DSCN2330.JPG DSCN2330A.JPG DSCN2331.JPG DSCN2332.JPG DSCN2333.JPG
     
  11. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

    That's sure is a sharp looking car! The rivet detail turned out nicely. I noticed the decal film really stands out on the black frame. Be sure to apply decals on a glossy surface and use plenty of decal solution. I apply at least 2 or 3 coats. That ensures that the surrounding film seems to disappear but leaves the lettering. It will also get rid of your air bubbles. Another trick I use is to cut the decal as close as possible to lessen the amount of excess film. Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to decal prep. This car ought to look like a million bucks after it's all weathered up! Good job, Manny. Love to see early era rolling stock being built.
     
  12. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

    I still have coats of solvaset to put on the car. The decals will blend in. I didn't gloss cote because the tank as is was shiny enough for the decals to just blend in. You won't see any edges by the time I'm done. Once all the solvaset is finished, she'll get the coats she of gloss she needs, then the weathering; and finally the dull cote. I always check for bubbles and "pop" them and then solvaset them away, so no worries. Yes, I try to cut as much away as possible. I could probably do a little better, but it I admit I don't have the proper tools, so a very sharp Excel blade is all I use with a straight edge.
     
  13. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

    Working on the tank straps right now. 1x3 inch styrene with .020 threaded rod at the bottom. Pics soon..
     
  14. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

    Lesson learned: Phosphorus Bronze to styrene does not stick even with CA very well when under tension. I would need to use styrene rod to styrene straps, or PB to PB same configuration. I have used black monofilament fishing line instead to mimic the cables. Looks great.

    Now, after giving the brass dome a 30 minute vinegar bath in the ultrasonic cleaner, I'm going to zinc chromate prime it, then paint it yellow. Once that dome is completed, and marked 121, it will be time for weathering chalks, India ink, paint and couplers to round it out.

    Manny
     
  15. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

    Mmmmm...Mmmmmm...Mmmmmm..... Tank Dome ala yellow, Polly S, baked at 175* for 20 minutes.... How delightful.
     
  16. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

    Gloss Cote tomorrow after a last round of solvaset tonight. The brake wheel will also be painted yellow. After this, heavy India Ink for oil, and chalks for rust. Here she is just sitting on her trucks and not attached yet. I have to detail underframe.

    DSCN2342.JPG DSCN2343.JPG DSCN2344.JPG DSCN2345.JPG DSCN2346.JPG DSCN2347.JPG DSCN2348.JPG DSCN2349.JPG DSCN2350.JPG
     
  17. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

    Looking great. Those white decals on the black frame really look a lot better now. Out of curiosity, why are you spraying on gloss coat after the decals are already on? Weathering powders work much better on a dull coated surface. I'm anxious to see the final product. I need a vintage tank car or two for a variety in traffic and those look really good. Your riveting skills inspire me.
     
  18. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

    Thanks for the compliments.

    When you do decals, first you want to spray gloss cote for a shiny appearance. The only paint this is not necessary on is Scalecoat II as its finish is already glossy. Next do the decals and the all the solvaset. After you finish all the solvaset, you then spray gloss cote again to "seal" the decals and create an even surface. Then you can weather. Then dull cote to seal everything.
     
  19. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

    Jim, the coating with gloss also eliminates the different reflects of light due to angles created by edges. When you gloss cote, whether one or multiple coats the light is always refracted one way, not at different angles. Once you dull cote it, no reflection occurs. The multiple levels of gloss cote bring everything up to an even plane.

    I will have to look into the weathering chalks working best with a dull cote only. I haven't heard that, and I'm just getting started into using chalks. Don't want to make any mistakes. Glad you said something.

    Manny
     
  20. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

    The first application of gloss cote has been applied. I'll check it in about 6-7 hours to see how it looks. I may need to do another coating. Once that is determined, I'll hit it with dull cote and begin the weathering process. Big thanks to Jim James for alerting me to the need for dull surface for chalks. I checked Bragdon Enterprise's web-site this morning and sure enough, DULL SURFACE APPLICATIONS ONLY! Thanks Jim. Big kudos to you.
     

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