S.A.& A.P. Maintenance of Way builds

So impressed. At a loss for words.

Sent from my Galaxy Siii

 

Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

Update. Still waiting on some parts. Not only do I have the original 11 car train, but I am also working on some unique cars. Superintendent's Stock Car for his horses, flat with hand cars, flat with rails, special medical cars, triple dormitory cars, and other unique pieces. I'll start posting pictures up shortly.

 

Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

Putting MicroMark Rivets on a tank car right now. Wow! What a job. Next time I'm going to get a tube the I.D. (inside diameter) of the tank and use it to draw straight lines around the tank. It isn't easy getting rivets all lined up. Should have this done in about an hour or so, then let it dry for awhile before receiving the paint job. S.A.&A.P. MW Bunker C Oil only.

 

Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

What's your opinion of the MicroMark rivets?

 

Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

Hey Karl,

So far so good. The real test will be when I paint. Easy enough to apply and the decal paper is disappearing with Wally World Solvaset. I'll scan a picture of the rivet set. I forgot about Archer who did the originals and whom MicroMark copied. I visited Archer's site and they have a better selection of rivets. My next order will be from Archer.

 

Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

Here are some shots of the vertical band rivets completed, and one side of the horizontal double row, staggered rivets. I'm working on the other side right now.

Prior to riveting, the tank was given a coating of sanding sealer. It was then polished with 0000 steel wool. Perfect adherence for decals.

The rivets are very easy to put on but the task is tedious to say the least. The idea of resin rivets is a boom! It would take days to do all these with plastic detail parts.

My final evaluation is being withheld after painting. I'm hoping, even with thinned down acrylic Polly S, that the rivets will not get lost. Time will tell...

1/2 car down, 15 more to go!

Manny

 

Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

No, no holy cow's here. Just a big Great Dane and a rivet counter? LOL...

 

Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

Riveting, isn't it??

All finished with the first tank. A couple more coats of Solvaset and she'll be ready to paint.

What do y'all think?

Manny

 

Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

Well, I painted the tank tonight and will have to start back at the beginning again. Apparently, I did not seal and sand enough and you can see wood grain. So I will 0000 steel wool it, and will probably have to do the rivets again, to make the tank smoother. Back to the old drawing board.

 

Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

Well, I just thought about that Jim. I'm not upset. It's part of the learning process. I'm going to see if there are any birch dowels available. They are much denser than what appears to be pine that is included with the kit. I'm not sure if it is pine. I'll ask LaBelle and see. Either that or I'll wrap it with .005 or thinner styrene like you said.

Thanks for the moral support. Or should I say tanks...

Manny

 

Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

Your commentary certainly is riveting. Certainly wouldn't want to "steel" your ideas. I might beat you to the "punch".

 

Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

I just tried to put a piece of .005 styrene sheet around the tank. It would work, but I'm left with a nasty lip, due to the beveling of the end of the dowels that LaBelle does. I'm afraid that I may have to work the wood. I'll see if I can get a Birch or Oak 7/8" dowel and work that.

I'll update y'all as to what Mr. Steele from LaBelle says.

Manny

 

Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

Manny - That is a real shame after all that rivet work.
A couple suggestions:
1. Use a tank car body from an old tank car.
2. When I made some "metal" roofs for some box cars from wood, I used Testors Sanding Sealer with quite a bit of corn starch added to it. This gave me a uniform color and a finish where I could see if I needed more coats of sealer in order to hide the grain. It's quick drying too!
Now I would use Varathane Polyurethane (interior water based heavy use formula) from HD with corn starch added.

 

Re: S.A.& A.P. MOW Train w/ Pile Driver No. 1

It's all part of the learning curve Sherrel. I'll get it fixed. I put a second coat of sanding sealer on the other tank body I have and am in the process of sanding and using 0000 steel wool again. I'll hit it another two or three times to make sure I got it nice and smooth.

Problem with using those plastic tank car shells is that the size and type are usually not correct.

I will take your ideas and try them. Corn starch huh? Never would have thought of that as a filler.

Thanks!

Manny

 

Re: Next project: S.A. & A.P. Pile Driver No. 1 - MOW

I just hit the second tank with a good sanding with 220 grit, then 0000 steel wool, then 320 grit, then 0000 steel wool, then a wipe down with Denatured Alcohol, and she is now drying from the third coat of sanding sealer. I'll do it two more times, and rivet again. If five times of sanding and sealing don't get it, then I'll try what Sherrel did. My concern is using the lacquer, and then trying to paint it with Polly S Acrylics. I'm afraid the acrylics won't adhere and chip off.

Stay tuned for further updates. Riveting isn't it?