Discussion in 'General' started by SAFN SAAP, Apr 1, 2019.
No. This had a three chime on the short hood but it just pops out.
Nice looking model. What method are you using to put your decals on? I have never heard of decal paper "stretching" as you described, and I could not find any negative information about the Suntek paper which is what K4 is using. I'm wondering if there is something in your method of application that is causing that "stretching" to occur.
Scissors,water,Solvaset. Only way I ever do.
The small decals like numbers are slimy but don’t stretch. The long ones like the sill stripes or long hood lettering stretch a bunch. I have never had decals do this either. I even used pieces from two sheets thinking one was a bad sheet but it was the same way. Don’t know what the deal is? The snug down pretty well. The pics here are not clear coated. It has been since. I post finished pics.
We will have to see how other guys make out with them. Like I said small ones were fine but large ones were the problem.
We been talking about the yellow decals for a while, let me offer this link to the thread http://www.frisco.org/shipit/index.php?threads/decal-special-run.7967/
In this thread, was discussed many different colors and processes. I am a supporter of K4 but at this point Mask Island has the better B/Y decal. K4 is too Lemony IMHO
I wish them no ill will, but take a look at any image from our favorite authors and that yellow is rich and vibrant, and not so lemon.
As far as the decals coming loose and pliable, that is just fresh decal paper.
Thank you for posting up.
Are you putting Solvaset on the model in the location of the decal before you put the decal on, or are you positioning the decal, blotting, and then using the Solvaset?
Also, what type of water are you using? What I mean is, is it tap city/well water with any kind of water softener? That can affect the decal. You should use only distilled water.
Look forward to your response.
The issue is the paper, or more accurately the clear portion of the decal. If you can picture mixing epoxy wrong and it never quite gets hard.
I never position into Solvaset, that will destroy a decal since the idea of the Solvaset is to soften the decal to make it conform to ridges in a model. I use public water. Blot and once set use solvaset. Multiple coats if needed. Once again the issue is the clear it is printed on. They come off so quick the water has no time to do anything. Its not the issue. For the small decals ( like the SL-SF under the cab numbers). I would not even let go of them with the tweezers. Its that quick. Which is not a bad thing. Not like old Walthers sets that I can put in water, take the trash out and grab a snack while they soften up. HA
Just like Tom said above, I'm not trying to bash the product. I just want guys here to know what to expect, or how they could be improved so a modeler gets the best product for there dollar. I am pretty picky about decals but with in reason I think? I decal a lot of models for my own collection and customers, I have no affiliation with any company and just glad to see Frisco subjects on the market. In the past week I have used Micro-Scale, K4, Mask, Circus City and custom printed I had run for myself. I am equal opportunity with out a doubt.
Thanks for the interest, have you tried any on a car yet? I'd like to see them as you guys get some done that model those early era cars. I got the FRISCO pieces added to this GP7 last night. It needs some weathering now. I'll add pics so everyone can see the finished product.
Someone was complaining about the decals being too thin and rolling up on themselves on a facebook group.
Not quite done but close. I faded the black and used a burnt umber wash to darken the lemony color of the decals. Not too bad matching the rails etc..
I know he is using Suntek paper which is Chinese. I always go to Microscale Decal Paper. I've never had a problem with theirs. I will pass these things along to K4 and see what he says. I have asked him before, but he prefers Suntek. I don't know if it is a cost thing or not.
Your QA&P (gulp) Diesel looks good. Nice weathering job. A little rust powder would help knock down the lemons. Either that, or just have your train crew turn their lemons into lemonade. It can be a hot day on the railroad. LOL.
I have never printed on Suntek. Always on Microscale or Micromark. I am not sure what brand the guy uses that does my custom ones. It is white not the sky blue color paper.
I will try a set of the O and G scale decals too at some point from him, but after trying these I know I need a well though out plan first, not just dip and slide like usual. With the way they stretch I keep picturing trying to position the coonskin or "Ship it..." on a G scale boxcar...?
Hopefully some more guys here get some projects decaled and share how they made out.
I wonder if a coat of MS Decal Film might help eliminate or minimize the stretching.
I would suggest trying a limited experiment. I tried to save some sets of Champ decals (OLD) with the film, and, while I was able to position the decals nicely, no amount of Solvaset I have been able to use will get them to lie down consistently. Some do pretty good, but others just curl up or fail to adhere at all. I don't know whether the problem is entirely the age or the addition of the film.
I'm not sure if that would help or not? If any of you have kids or grandkids that have the waterslide temporary tattoos these almost feel like that material where they are meant to be flexible.
I have saved lots of decals by spraying them with dulcoat before I use them. It seems to work pretty well. Some are from the 60s and 70s and work still. I never know how much age matters. I have had old sets that work hassle free and had microscale decals that were only a couple years old shatter like safety glass. Who knows?
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