Workshop Wednesday

Discussion in 'General' started by yardmaster, Nov 15, 2017.

  1. geep07

    geep07 Member

    I am having no luck at finding a Farr Grilles for a F9m A unit.
    Looks like I'll have to brush paint them.
    I have a undec FP 7 I picked up for a $1 @ a train show years ago, so I am practicing on that so I can get enough nerve to do the actual model.

    Attached Files:

  2. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member Staff Member

    Hey John I found a set of Farr Grills for you in my parts stash! They are for an E unit but can be cut down to the correct length.
    Iantha_Branch likes this.
  3. geep07

    geep07 Member

    I forgot to mention, I have 2 A units to do!
    The length of the grilles on them are 35'.
    By cutting them to fit, wiil there be an end frame on both ends or none or just one end?
    Ozarktraveler likes this.
  4. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member Staff Member

    The part I have is a Detail Associates GR 2701, F&E unit stainless steel etched metal, There are actually 3 pieces in the package as I added a shorter one from a shorter etch. The shorter one is 35' scale ft long and appears to have thicker ends on both. The other 2 pieces are 56' scale ft long and do not appear to have the thicker ends. In any case not enough to do 2 units I think. I did 2 F9B units with these parts, they worked for me but maybe not you.
    Maybe your better off painting yours flat black with an air brush, then use a very dry brush to highlight the stainless with silver. Had a friend do it this way and it looked good, after weathering, and clear coats should look even better.
    I also got screens from Intermountain at one time, you might try them, cant remember which screens I got tho.


    SLSF 147.jpg
  5. geep07

    geep07 Member

    How are these applied to the model?
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  6. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member Staff Member

    Actually, thats a great question. I have seen them mounted in a few ways. One was mounted on a dark back ground but glued in place with epoxy. It worked OK but failed in a setting where temp differences were prevalent, meaning the stainless etched grills expanded and or contracted at a greater pace than the plastic shells they were mounted.
    Then there is the super glue method, IMHO not worth the trouble.
    I have also seen them mounted using black silicone, better but not the best.
    Perhaps the best for me was to use 3M permanent mount double back sticky tape. I cut strips and mounted to the shell, as often and long as the shell would allow, this turned out to be the best for me.
    Maybe it was Intermountain, that used tabs that could be bent into the shell to keep them in place, but this depends on who's shell you are using.
    Who's shell are you using John?
  7. mark

    mark Staff Member Staff Member

    John and Tom,

    Recommend using canopy glue to attach the stainless steel grills or other non similar materials.

    It has good holding power, dries clear and retains some flexibility. Canopy glue does not chemically react to "smoke" the metal or other materials like microscope slide or plastic "glass". An added advantage is that it is easy to clean up with water if a little too much is applied.

    Hope this helps.


    Last edited: Mar 8, 2023
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  8. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member Staff Member

    Yessir that's a good idea.
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  9. geep07

    geep07 Member

    The locomotive is by Stewart.
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  10. Mark Poley

    Mark Poley Member

    Thank You!
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  11. Mark Poley

    Mark Poley Member

    I added some signs to the HO scale country store that I built a while back. Thank you.
    Doshier's Store 1.JPG Doshier's Store 2.JPG Doshier's Store 3.JPG Doshier's Store 4.JPG
  12. rjthomas909

    rjthomas909 Member Supporter

  13. rjthomas909

    rjthomas909 Member Supporter

    Hey All, Happy Wednesday,

    I have been noodling on a more modern project that is not necessarily Frisco. I am working on a concept to bring back the Wichita Northwestern as a late 1980s shortline (Yes, an alternate history fantasy). Perhaps slightly renamed the "Wichita & Northwestern". If you are not familiar, there is a great book by Lee Bergland, "Wheat Belt Route, Wichita Northwestern: The Story of a Dust Bowl Railroad" that details the history of the line which shut down around 1940, and was located in Southwestern Kansas. (click images for larger version).


    I don't really model anything modern, so I thought this would be a fun project, and maybe build some sort of switching layout or diorama around the idea. I started with a 3-bay covered hopper and some decals from K4 to maybe get a feel for this one. (Did not have the ampersand here, but just an initial concept where I think the lettering too small. Maybe show as a leased car vs WNW...we will see.


    I am thinking about a story of a short line (yes, entirely fanciful) that would extend the original line to its intended design (Whichta -- Pratt -- Hays) and combine with the Frisco line from Wichita to Ellsworth. Concepts might include old Frisco, Rock Island, or MoPac power.


    These would be relatively easy to re-letter for such a project. I did get some details on proper stenciling for a 1980s hopper:

    That will be useful to correct the Accurail hopper above to a more appropriate 1980s look. We'll see. I received two more "data only" cars today and will work on some ideas over the weekend. Fun, fun, fun.

    Inputs welcomed.

    -Bob T.
    Last edited: May 2, 2023
  14. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporter

    A little diversion from the usual can be a lot of fun.
    rjthomas909 likes this.
  15. Friscotony

    Friscotony Member

    RJ--I have a set of two Wichita and Northwestern boxcars which train minitures put out years ago. One is black and one is yellow. I and a lot who knew Lee purchased them to make sure the model sold well. I do not have any plans to use these and if you are interested in them let me know.

    Tony LaLumia
  16. rjthomas909

    rjthomas909 Member Supporter

    Hey, thanks Tony. I would like to have them just for reference photos, etc. Let me know if I can pay you for them and/or shipping.

    -Bob T.
  17. rjthomas909

    rjthomas909 Member Supporter

    I worked on cleaning up the logo in a vector graphic format. If anyone is an Inkscape wizard and could help me improve the "sunburst" (even if just some advice) it would be very much appreciated. I am trying to figure out how to replicate the triangles quickly as a more simple, symmetric shape.



    Take care all,

    -Bob T.
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2023
  18. Iantha_Branch

    Iantha_Branch Member

    I like the idea you've got brewing Bob.

    Is there a way you could scab on a second level to your current layout? Or would that interfere with your ability to stack it up? Just a thought
  19. rjthomas909

    rjthomas909 Member Supporter

    Hey Ethan,

    What I do is store the sections of the current layout most of the time. I will have 1 to 4 of them out working on scenery, etc. I only set up the whole layout occasionally.

    What I am planning here is something like a 2 to 4 section switching layout that I can carry in the bed of the truck. I will likely make it compatible with Free-mo standards. I have been looking at the subject being Larned, KS as a spot to model, where the WNW shared a depot with the MoPac, and there was also an interchange with the Santa Fe. Not really committed to that, but on the short list. I'll post track plans as I noodle them.

    On a related note, would anyone know where I could find the dispositions of the GP-15s owned by the Frisco? Did they all go into service with the BN?

    Take Care,

    -Bob T.
  20. Iantha_Branch

    Iantha_Branch Member

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