HEy guys just another update! The benchwork is complete for the layout 12'X24' and tomorrow I start laying out an affirmative and active track plan and planning scenery. I will be posting pictures as progress is made. Just a little fyi! This is my first layout of any significance so I am pretty ecited, I just hope and pray that I can keep ahold of my patience and not get in any big hurry. Any pointers would help! Thanks! Will |-||-||-|
Hey Will, Congratulations! You are light-years ahead of most modelers even at this stage of construction. A lot of layouts never make it past the concept stage. Benchwork is not the most exciting part of the hobby but it is a requirement and you can start visualizing the actual railroad once it is up. Looking forward to seeing the photos in the coming days. Here are a few items I would consider if building a new layout. 1. Solid subroadbed -The track will need a strong, straight foundation. I use 3/4" plywood but have seen others use spline subroadbed of Homasote or wood strips. The spline method takes longer but lays out some amazing curves. I am too impatient. 2. Track Laying - I use a glue down method with DAP acrylic adhesive and MD Camper Tape. The DAP is no longer available but I know of a good replacement but will have to get back with you on the name in the next day or so. The good thing is it is available from Lowes and I think the names starts with a "PH". 3. Bus Line Wiring - Install a good bus line for the command control system and I would recommend a stranded 12 ga wire. 10 ga would be even better but copper prices are insane today. On my layout I use 8 ga and had to take a second mortgage out on the house. 4. Feeder Wiring - Drops/feeder wires need to be placed on EVERY piece of track/turnout to the bus line. Do not rely on rail joiners to conduct electricity over the long-term. They will oxidize and eventually become insulators. I use a one pair telephone wire that is 22 ga stranded copper. 5. Turnout wiring - When using Shinohara/Walthers turnouts the frog must be powered because the copper tabs on the points will oxidize and fail in a short time. Frogs can be easily powered from a Tortoise switch motor and I can show you how to do that if you are using Shinohara/Walters. I use Atlas Code 83 turnouts and the frogs already have the jumpers installed. 6. Operate the railroad - Not only is this THE most enjoyable part of the hobby (to me anyway) but it also helps debug the layout. Invite some friends over and run it like a railroad with jobs, paperwork, etc. If there are any weaknesses in the mechanics of the railroad, an operating session will identify them so you can fix them and make the railroad even better. Now I need to mention that this thought bothers a lot of modelers to the point that they don't want to expose themselves in this manner. However, it is really the only way to really debug a railroad. I don't want to come off as Moses here but I have seen and operated on a lot of railroads and the best ones are the ones that are operated. That's all I can think of now and this is probably enough for this stage of the game. The best thing you can do is to keep asking questions. Ship IT on the Frisco! Rick
I can't say enough about straight and level track. The level is a must. Small dips make cars come uncoupled and slight kinks cause derailments and these two combined cause major headaches and take the fun out of the hobby. Quality products is the next must. Rick is right about the switches. Use a superior product like Peco or Shinohara for switches and if you're not hand laying track as far as I'm concerned you can't beat Atlas flex track. And about track size. A friend has a layout thats about 75% complete and he used code 83 track and it looks great. Makes me want to rip up all my code 100. So if I was in your position with open benchwork I would strongly consider code 83. Good luck and enjoy!
Congrats, Will! You are in good company with those of us who are (trying to be) trucking along with their first serious benchwork and layout plan. I'd also enjoy looking at your track plan. I wholeheartedly agree with the concept of operating and running the layout so that it has a purpose. There's a whole slough of ops oriented folks here who can help you with that as well. Indeed, post pictures as you go. I've enjoyed seeing Rick and Keith's (klrwhizkid) benchwork approaches and look forward to seeing you whittlin' efforts! Best Regards.
Will: Use 3/4" plywood for your subroadbed. I am sure the extra cost will payoff with a smoother running railroad. Don't build an aircraft carrier layout. In other words only put the plywood down where the railroad goes or where needed for the buildings and roads. Leave open places for scenery. Go with Code 83 track, it is much more realistic and scale looking. I use Atlas and the newer Walthers turnouts. I will admit that I have had problems with a few Atlas switches but with a little tweaking and patience they work just fine. Don't overwhelm yourself and try to do everything at once. I would suggest building th layout in stages so that you can see your own progress.
Super. There's nothing like having a plan, and putting it down in structure rather than concept. If you don't already have one, I would recommend getting a 4' straight edge to help prevent the dips or unevenness that HWB alludes to. Otherwise, it's necessary to use a 12" ruler with every 4" overlapping to minimize irregularities. For roadbed, Bob is heading you in the right direction, 1/2" is too thin unless supported very well. You can get by with some of the materials available that are thinner (and cheaper)than 3/4" ply but the most important feature is how well that decking is supported. On the electrical side, I have read in some books and magazines that illustrate the use of "suitcase" connectors for attaching feeder wires to the buss. Don't use them - 80% of the electrical charge travels on the surface of conductors and the suitcase connectors nick the conductors, impeding current flow and damage the conductors making them more susceptible to breakage. This is especially important with smaller conductor wires or stranded wires. Get a Weller 140 watt soldering gun (looks like a pistol with a trigger) and solder the connections with solder (rosin based flux) made for electronics. You will need the wattage of this type of soldering gun to solder to the outside of the rails as well quickly so you won't damage ties.
Will, I agree with Keith on the straightedge. I got a 5 ft rule at Home Depot for about $10 and it is great. When I lay long lengths of straight rail, I use a chalk line to line up my camper tape roadbed and the straight edge to line up the track. I have some straight lengths of mainline that are 20-25' that are straight as an arrow because I used my 5 ft rule. Oddly enough I used a pair of binoculars to sight down the track and remove any wiggles. I also agree on soldering vs suitcase connectors. Electrical Grand Wizard Joe Kasper (KC BN modeler who works for GE medical) sez mechanical connections (translated: suitcase connectors) are never as solid as soldered connections. In fact, mechanical connections will, over time, fail. (You only have to look at a circuit board to realize that.) Even when I connect two wires together by twisting them together, I solder them. Initially twisting wires together is fine to make sure everything is works properly but twisted wire connections need to be soldered. Hope we aren't bumming you out with all this info. Once you have done a little of this type of work, it will be quite easy so dive in. Southeast . . . Southwest . . . Ship IT Frisco! Rick
I agree. I used code 100 for the mains and code 83 for sidings and yards, but I wish I had used code 83 everywhere--it looks a lot better. Better yet I would have tried code 70 for the yards, even. I don't trust the suitcase connectors, either, so I solder feeders to the bus wires. NEVER wear shorts when soldering under your layout, no matter how hot it is (don't ask). For a straight edge I got a 48" aluminum yardstick from Home Depot that is for drywall work.
I'm very electrically challenged--I know not to lick my finger and put it in a socket and that's about it! What is a "suitcase" connector? Not familiar with the term. Thanks, Tom
I don't trust the suitcase connectors, either, so I solder feeders to the bus wires. NEVER wear shorts when soldering under your layout, no matter how hot it is (don't ask). I have been there and done just exactly that. Wear long pants such as jeans so the solder will come off easily. Hairy legs hold solder very well. I have used suitcase connectors in my job over these past years and I DO NOT recommend them. Soldering is the way to go.
Here's a picture of a 3M Scotchlock connector: http://www.megatronixusa.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/3M905.jpg You put the wires in and squeeze it with a crimper or a plier, and a knife edge cuts into the wire. I think I first saw them for car stereo installation several years ago. Some guys use them on their layouts, as they say it would take too long to solder all of the joints on a large layout. Good luck to them. You too, Bob? Then there's the time I accidentally knocked my soldering iron off the bench and caught it by the tip on its way down. I guess I have to learn the hard way...
Well, fellers, you read my mind. I was ogling the various electrical accoutrements at my neighborhood home improvement store this afternoon and had figured I'd go with suitcase connectors, but would touch base with those in the know first. Accordingly, with a reasonably small layout, I am perfectly comfortable soldering my feeder lines to the main bus. Good advice on the shorts, Bob. Since my garage/layout space is freon-free, I'm typically in shorts if it's over 50 degrees. However, I've found that an X-Acto #11 blade also makes a much deeper gouge in one's leg when wearing shorts. I am now joining my Big XII brethren from KU in lamenting the end of the college hoops season for my school. All in all, I think the Jayhawks and Tigers represented the conference well. Now I'd be happy to see OU carry the conference torch to Detroit. Best Regards,
Right on Chris - go OU! I'm not that big of an OU fan, but in my book, anybody playing UNC, or Duke, is a team I root for. Mizzou played a great tournament! Their future is very bright. Same with KU. All things being equal, the Jayhawks should be a final four candidate next season with, hopefully, everybody back. Ken
You sure do talk purty yardmaster. Gud thing there iz a dikshonary on-line so I kin cipher yer posts. Solder & shorts? Of course! Are we not men? Solder IT on the Frisco! Rick
Your options are twofold, Rick. There is "The Bootheel Phonics Guide" from online booksellers, or Keith (klrwhizkd) should be able to act as translator.
I think it stems from taking the flap or "lid" (in the left of Keith's picture) and folding it over and closing it rather like a suitcase. The little metal piece then snaps down into the wiring as if it were a mini guillotine (sp) and in theory forms an electrical connection. Will: do you have a control system in mind yet? I will start conventional DC power (but am NOT going to the trouble of wiring blocks) to be converted to DCC.
Chris, just for the heck of it and to save money for now I am gonna go with good old fashioned wiring and solder.
