Rivet Decals

Discussion in 'General' started by yardmaster, Sep 27, 2018.

  1. yardmaster

    yardmaster Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Folks -
    As I work on an ex-ATSF caboose project, I realized I scuffed quite a few rivets - among other mistakes - when removing the molded grabs.

    Time to try out some rivet decals. Any of you had better/worse luck between either the Archer rivets or Micro Mark rivets?

    I'm thinking that it's probably best to remove all of the molded rivets from the model and replace them all, as opposed to leaving those that are undamaged and replacing the damaged ones only? Someone's welcome to talk me back from the ledge.

    Did find a thread on MRH dealing with the two brands, but thought I would check with some trusted advisors here first.


    Thanks, in advance.
    Joe Lovett likes this.
  2. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Personally I would first leave any remaining rivets alone and try to fill in spots with the decal rivets. If the results don’t look right to you then remove all rivets and use your choice of decals.
    The size of the rivet decals may not perfectly match the molded on rivets. For me, close is good enough. That doesn’t fly with others. Be sure to post your results.
  3. yardmaster

    yardmaster Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Thanks, Jim. I like that approach from a matter of saving time and trouble. I'd be happy with "close" on a first try. I do need to figure out if a gloss coat needs to be added to the model before affixing the decal-rivet strips. In other words,
    1. Smooth out damaged rivets,
    2. Add gloss coat
    3. Apply rivet strips
    4. Primer
    5. Paint
    6. More gloss coat
    7. Add decals
    8. Weather and seal.
  4. William Jackson

    William Jackson Bill Jackson

    The last man I seen go crazy was trying to put on rivets. He still isn't right today.
  5. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Sounds good, Chris. I get better results if I use DulCoat before I weather. It gives the surface some tooth for the weathering medium to cling to. A final coat of DulCoat seals your weathering artwork. This is a good thread.
  6. Joe Lovett

    Joe Lovett Member

    I agree with Jim!!! Not only is this a great thread it's a great website. So many friendly members with a lot of knowledge. There is also a lot of great modeling experience. Keep up the great work guys.

    Two of my favorite threads at this time are "Workshop Wednesday" and "Where is it Contest". On Workshop it's fun to see photos and hear the description of what they are working on. With Contest it too is fun to try to find the correct photo and it gives me a chance to explore the Archives more than I have in the nine years that I've been a member combined. Man, there is a huge amount of photos. Isn't it great?

    There's also several layout build threads going on. More fun.

  7. yardmaster

    yardmaster Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Bill, thanks for the warning; for me, I'm afraid that train already pulled away from the platform a long time ago. If it hadn't already, the last Cardinals' series would have done it to me. :)
  8. yardmaster

    yardmaster Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Good stuff, Jim - need to add that to my notebook. I have to keep these things written down or I'll get too excited to finish up and then blow it. I really have to start listing steps in sequential fashion for freight cars when you start adding masking unweathered paint for reweigh symbols, some old and some new chalk marks and what not. But, for another thread.
  9. Chris I do the same for what it is worth. I use dulcoat first so any weathering is not on the paint directly. In case I screw up! I can remove any bad areas. Then I dulcoat after layers of fade, acrylics, oilsandcso on. All just light coats to protect what I want to keep. Like him said it bites better to dulcoat.
    Against all modelers advise I also decal onto dulcoat. I am happy with the results without a glosscoat that I would end up dulling down.
    Sirfoldalot and Joe Lovett like this.
  10. Sirfoldalot

    Sirfoldalot Frisco.org Supporter Frisco.org Supporter

    Kudos, Chris, for starting this thread!
    Kudos to all who have posted suggestions - especially Bill (LOL)

    SAFN SAAP Member

    I use the Archer or the Micro Mark Resin Rivets on my tank cars and they are absolutely great! I would like to adjust your list a little with suggestions:

    1. Do not try to make your rivets perfect. They take hits from time to time. Alignment is one thing, but dings and dents in the rivet heads are sometimes unavoidable. Try to not to get PERFECT in that area. Damage = realism.

    2. Gloss Coat. Yes, very important.

    3. Apply Rivet Strips

    3A, 3B, 3C, 3D: SOLVASET, SOLVASET, SOLVASET, SOLVASET. When you are done with all that, SOLVASET AGAIN! Solvaset does NOT affest the resin, but makes the decal paper disappear!

    3E: GLOSS COAT LIGHTLY again. This will lock your rivet decals in place, and it will create continuity across the surfaces. Without this step, you have gloss coated sides, and matte decal paper. It will affect the paint, even so slightly. Doing this step ensures even paint tones.

    4. Primer (if necessary)

    5. Paint (Let dry a few days)

    6. Gloss coat

    7. Decals

    8. Solvaset, Solvaset, Solvaset. When you are done with all that, Solvaset again!

    9. Gloss Coat

    10. Matte Coat

    11. Weather

    12. Seal*

    * When I weather with powders, I DO NOT seal my cars. The matte seems to make it all disappear. I apply my powders and then with a make up brush, I dust the car, fade it in, and it is perfect. I do not handle my cars with bare hands. I always wear Nitrile Gloves. No oils. No fingerprints. No issues with cars or locomotives.
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2019
  12. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Wow, Manny. Good to hear from you!
    Sirfoldalot and Ozarktraveler like this.

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