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Q: How to lay track?

Discussion in 'General' started by trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017), Jul 31, 2011.

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  1. trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017)

    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017) Passed away September 22, 2017

    I would like to know the easiest way to secure HO code 100 flex track directly to plywood (no roadbed). I am only interested in applications that will allow me to change the layout using the same track whenever I desire. Are track nails my only option? If so, are there any tips that make it easier to drive them?
     
    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017), Jul 31, 2011
    #1
  2. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Check out this link to my post and an article that I highlighted in my clinic at the 2010 Frisco Convention and at the Indian Nations NMRA meet in Tulsa, OK, Spring 2011;
    http://www.frisco.org/vb/showthread.php?4420-Frisco-Convention-2010-Files&p=30939#post30939 The clinic may be of interest but the article by Chuck Hitchcock on the post is what you are after. NO NAILS!


    Key is go light with about a 1/8" bead of the DAP 230 adhesive caulk and spread it with a cheap disposable plastic putty knife. If you go easy with it, the track can be pulled up by slipping a real thin putty knife between it and the topper tape or plywood tabletop.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 10, 2011
    klrwhizkid, Aug 1, 2011
    #2
  3. Rick McClellan

    Rick McClellan 2009 Engineer of the Year

    Dap Adhesive is no longer available as far as I know. The replacement is Phenoseal Vinyl Adhesive Caulk available at Lowe's. BTW Phenoseal is easier to use and releases track easier when used sparingly as suggested by Keith.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 10, 2011
    Rick McClellan, Aug 1, 2011
    #3
  4. Iantha_Branch

    Iantha_Branch Member

    I had flex track at one time and my method was connect the track on one end, put in a wood screw, do what ever (bend and or make make cuts to the rails) and another wood screw on that end. Then when your ready for glue loosen up the screws so you can get the glue under the track and then retighten the screws. Wait for it to dry and remove the screws. I used white glue (I had it available) and it worked just fine for me. I know my method may not sound that good, but it's what I ended up doing. I think I would still go with what Kieth and Rick suggest.

    Ethan
     
    Iantha_Branch, Aug 1, 2011
    #4
  5. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    According to DAP, for the application that we are using, the replacement product for the one in the article is DAP Dynaflex 230 Premium Indoor/Outdoor Sealant (Clear), however, both it and the product that Rick identifies work well. Both are available at Lowes.

    For curves, use some weight to hold in place for about 20 - 30 minutes.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 10, 2011
    klrwhizkid, Aug 1, 2011
    #5
  6. yardmaster

    yardmaster Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Keith, I followed the directions posted and have used this with great success thus far as we put down track in Olathe.

    I will have to verify exactly what I purchased from Westlake Ace Hardware nearest our house. However, a thin bead followed by spreading with a putty knife works wonders, and it has been easy to pop the track back up off the cork roadbed if needed.

    I've used push-pins to carefully hold the track down on curves; weights were not working too well for us. Carefully is the operative word, as the last thing I need is track that's out of gauge because of smooshed ties.

    Best Regards,
     
    yardmaster, Aug 2, 2011
    #6
  7. friscobob

    friscobob Staff Member Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    I plan on using hollow-core doors with a foam overlay, and lay my HO track atop topper tape on the foam. Push pins will work well for me to help hold track down.
     
    friscobob, Aug 8, 2011
    #7
  8. FRISCO4503

    FRISCO4503 FRISCO4503 Frisco.org Supporter

    In an article I read in Model Railroader Magazine, and a few other articles, I forget which publications, also on EBAY, I have found spike size track SCREWS, which I was interested in trying myself. They are supposed to fit in the predrilled holes on flex track. they are very small screws and more than likely will have to be screwed in with a hobby screwdriver. But from what I remember about them is, they are cross tip, or Phillips head screws.
     
    FRISCO4503, Aug 9, 2011
    #8
  9. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    What is this topper tape you speak of?
     
    Jim James, Aug 10, 2011
    #9
  10. Rick McClellan

    Rick McClellan 2009 Engineer of the Year

    The real name is Camper Seal Tape by Macklanburg Duncan (purple & black package, I believe). It is 3/16 x 1 (or so) foam tape used to seal a camper shell onto the siderails of a pickup truck. I have no idea where the term "topper" came from since camper shells are known as "campers" not "toppers." You can get it at Home Depot for about $6 a 30 ft roll. You will need to seal any wood with paint as it is intended for slick surfaces and does not like dusty wood surfaces.
     
    Rick McClellan, Aug 10, 2011
    #10
  11. Ozarktraveler

    Ozarktraveler Member

    In some parts of the country that's what they're called, they're known as "caps" too. Go figure...
     
    Ozarktraveler, Aug 10, 2011
    #11
  12. TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020)

    TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020) Passed Away July 15, 2020 Frisco.org Supporter

    Pickup truck tonneau covers are sometimes called toppers. That's what the Chevrolet service center here called mine.

    Tom
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 10, 2011
    TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020), Aug 10, 2011
    #12
  13. Iantha_Branch

    Iantha_Branch Member

    Just to clarify what Tom is talking about by tonneau (t-on-oh) covers it's like a camper shell, but instead of sticking up to the height of the cab or above, its a flat piece that sets on top of the sides of the truck, then when you need to put something in the bed it just extends up.

    Ethan
     
    Iantha_Branch, Aug 11, 2011
    #13
  14. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Thanks,Rick. I'll stick with cork. I'm old school.
     
    Jim James, Aug 11, 2011
    #14
  15. trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017)

    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017) Passed away September 22, 2017

    HO scale, double-track oval... what is the standard spacing between the center of each rail? 2"? what about the spacing at the mid point of the curves (inner oval is 18" Radius)? I know the outer oval will need to "swing out" a little but how much? 3"?
     
    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017), Aug 12, 2011
    #15
  16. renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013)

    renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013) Passed away March 8, 2013

    The center of the curve should be 2 1/2" apart, and straight sections 2".
     
    renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013), Aug 13, 2011
    #16
  17. meteor910

    meteor910 2009 Engineer of the Year Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Richard's guideline is a good one. I made this mistake years ago with Kurt's model railroad layout, which basically I am still using to run stuff now and then. It has one double track 180-degree curve, roughly 22" and 20" radius. I spaced them (I just measured it) 2.25 inches apart on the curve. Looks pretty good, and all works well with freight trains or a freight and a passenger train, but two passenger trains come very close to sideswiping - and I use Athearn's shorty heavyweight cars. Full length cars would likely touch on the curve.

    But ..... I only run one passenger train so it works!

    Use 2.5" minimum for the radius curve you are using. Many times on the Frisco Eastern Division, where there is dual track, the curves are not exactly identical anyway, so the spacing can be wider.

    Ken
     
    meteor910, Aug 13, 2011
    #17
  18. trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017)

    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017) Passed away September 22, 2017

    Thanks to all who replied. I think if the outer straights of my double track oval are 1/2 inch longer on each end, I will achieve the 2.5 inch space at the center of the curves.
     
    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017), Aug 13, 2011
    #18
  19. trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017)

    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017) Passed away September 22, 2017

    I am going to do one of two things to my new layout after I paint the table top green. 1) Paint a roadbed so i can change the layout very easily later by painting over it... OR 2) use camper seal tape if it reduces operating noice. Does camper seal tape reduce operating noise v/s laying directly on 3/4" plywood? If not, I'll soon be ready to get out the gray paint and, soon afterward, lay track. If it does, I see a trip to Lowe's in my near future.
     
    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017), Aug 24, 2011
    #19
  20. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Brandon, if you look at most of the "tabletops" that are pictured, the underlying color is typically a tan/brown color.
    The topper tape significantly reduces sound transfer to the plywood, so I would strongly recommend its use. Woodland Scenics also has a product called Track Bed based in soft foam that accomplishes the same effect. http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/HOScaleTrackBedSystem
     
    klrwhizkid, Aug 24, 2011
    #20
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