Micro-Sol vs. Micro-Set?

Discussion in 'General' started by TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020), Mar 27, 2011.

  1. TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020)

    TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020) Passed Away July 15, 2020 Frisco.org Supporter

    What are the circumstances that would have you to chose one over the other (Micro-Sol or Micro-Set). I've used both but only one or the other at a time.
    I just lay the wet decal on the (clean area of the) model, position it, dab away the water and carefully drip on the solution (one or the other) without touching it. Then dab away the solution carefully. After it dries, I prick the bubbles and repeat applying the solvent. Then sometimes, but not always,I repeat the last step. I never really could tell the difference between the products. And never saw the need to apply solvent to the surface of the model. Is this "the way" to apply decals? And which product is preferred?

    Thanks, Tom
     
  2. friscomike

    friscomike Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Howdy Tom,

    That's a good question; thanks for asking it.

    Here is how I use them: Micro-Set is an excellent wetting agent that I apply to the model before and after I apply the decal. I let it dry completely before I overcoat or use Micro-Sol. Micro-Sol melts decals, so I use it to snuggle decals around ribs, boards, rivets, etc. Once I apply it, I don't touch the decal or it will likely be ruined. Apply it and let it dry.

    I almost always use both, first Micro-set, then Micro-sol. The result is a decal that is easy to hide with a flattening or gloss overcoat.

    Others may have other approaches, this is the way I have always used them.

    Best,
    mike
     
  3. meteor910

    meteor910 2009 Engineer of the Year Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Yes. I attended a decal clinic from Microscale representatives at a hobby shop in Cincinnati. The Microscale "system" specifies using Microset (blue bottle) first to wet the area and float the decal on. Then position it where you want it and let it get almost dry (I dab it a bit with a tissue wetted with Microset as well to speed things up a bit and to start the decal getting snug on the area). Then apply Microsol (red bottle) to the surface of the decal to snug it in totally to the contour of the surface. I usually apply four or five coats of Microsol, letting it almost dry each time. The system works great on most modern (i.e. thin) decals like Microscale and OddBalls. On thicker ones like Champ, I use the same system, but finish it off with a coat (careful) of Walthers Solvaset. Be careful with this, as the decal at this stage is soft, and the Solvaset is powerful stuff. I use a soft small paintbrush to apply the solvents.

    Ken
     
  4. Sirfoldalot

    Sirfoldalot Frisco.org Supporter Frisco.org Supporter

    Thanks for the info - Ken.
    I have not decaled anything in quite a while (20 years ago), but, always just used Solvaset then.
    I have wondered what the difference in the products were.
     
  5. renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013)

    renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013) Passed away March 8, 2013

    I have nothing aganist the Microscale system, but I have used Solvaset for almost 50 years now with excellent results.
    Richard E. Napper
     
  6. meteor910

    meteor910 2009 Engineer of the Year Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    To me - Solvaset is just too strong for the thin decals, like Microscale, OddBalls. Works great for the older ones - Champ, Herald King, Walthers, etc.

    I have shriveled up several MS decals with Solvaset. Never has happened with the "blue" and the "red". But, that's just my experience.

    Ken
     
  7. Rancho Bob

    Rancho Bob Member

    Ken...I've found that if you "water" Solvaset down a bit (with clean distilled H2O), it won't attack the daylights out of your thinnest decals. But I cannot argue with the "kinder-gentler" results from Microscale's products. I don't know what others may use, but for me..only the 000 or 0000 sable artists brushes for applicators. Once the decal is down....and needs a little help here and there....you can lay it on thick.
     
  8. meteor910

    meteor910 2009 Engineer of the Year Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Bob - Agree. Actually, I long ago have "watered down" my Solvaset bottle with about 10% distilled H2O as I recall. It is still potent stuff!

    Ken
     
  9. renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013)

    renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013) Passed away March 8, 2013

    Iteresting, I have used Solvaset on all of the OddBalls Decals, and never had any problem with them, and I do not water it down. Just my experience.
    Richard E. Napper
     
  10. TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020)

    TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020) Passed Away July 15, 2020 Frisco.org Supporter

    Oddballs seem to me very durable, they'll take quite a bit of handling.

    Tom
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 29, 2011
  11. meteor910

    meteor910 2009 Engineer of the Year Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Yes, Oddballs are pretty tough. I don't think I ever had one break on me. Breaks with Microscale are fairly common as they are so thin, especially with older ones. But, being thin is why I think they are the best decal. They also don't need to be cut apart, which I like.

    Ken
     
  12. Rancho Bob

    Rancho Bob Member

    I used to spray a very thin coat of Dupont automotive clear lacquer over the Microscale decals to give them extra "body".


    Buck Dean
    Jacksonville
     
  13. rc2477

    rc2477 Member

    ok I'm finding this thread very informative, I have some custom decals that I had made through Rail Grafics, What setting system would you fellows recomend for these decals? They seem like a fairly high quality and not very thick, kinda like microscale.
    Thanks guys, Craig
     
  14. meteor910

    meteor910 2009 Engineer of the Year Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Never used Rail Grafics, but from what you say about them I'd use the MicroSet and MicroSol combination as discussed.

    Ken
     
  15. renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013)

    renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013) Passed away March 8, 2013

    If you think they are like Microscale Decals, I have had very good results using Solvaset with Microscale Decals, Harold King, Champ, and Oddballs. I do not understand the problems so others have talked about using Solvaset.
    Richard E. Napper
     
  16. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Solv-set is all I've ever used but then again I'm no master modeler. Only once did I ruin a decal and that sucked. I should give the others a try some time. I like to broaden my skills.
     
  17. slsfrr (Jerome Lutzenberger RIP 9/1/2018)

    slsfrr (Jerome Lutzenberger RIP 9/1/2018) Engineer Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    I have used Micro-Sol/Micro-Set with Rail Graphics and have not had any problems.

    Jerome
     
  18. TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020)

    TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020) Passed Away July 15, 2020 Frisco.org Supporter

    Another decal question--I have some decals that are pretty old and brittle and tend to come apart if I'm not very careful. I've heard they can still be made usable by spraying the sheet with Glosscote. If this is done, will the decal setting solutions still perform?

    Thanks, Tom
     
  19. renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013)

    renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013) Passed away March 8, 2013

    Tom,
    Microscale makes a decal saver liquid that you apply to old decals. I have used it with great success.
    Richard E. Napper
     
  20. TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020)

    TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020) Passed Away July 15, 2020 Frisco.org Supporter

    Thanks Richard for the heads up.

    Tom
     

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