Flex track

I was there sunday, and they didn't have any. It's in joplin so there's no use in ordering one there.

 

Here is the way I do it.

Lay out your curve with the sectional track, right on the sub-roadbed. Get the straight sections before and after the curve laid out also.

Then using T-pins or Straight pins, put a pin in every nail hole of the sections you've laid out. Leaving the track in place, take one-half of a cork strip and butt it up against the pins. You'll have to lift the track slightly to get it to slide under.

Then I use track nails in the cork to hold the strip in place, putting them between the ties about every three inches on straights and close to the nail holes on the curves. Once you have laid the cork half strip against the pins all the way from straight section to straight section through the curve, with the cork strip firmly in place and following the curved track, remove the pins and track.

Take the other half of the cork strip and nail it firmly against the first strip.

Now for the track.

Take your flex track and starting about "two nail holes" along the straight, using track nails, align the nail holes with the centerline of the cork, put a track nail through the nail holes. Trim the rail ends after the curve is laid and add another section following the same technique.

It is easier than this description makes it sound, and with practice it gets easier.

Glenn in Tulsa

 

i already have it figured out. I didn't think to pick up track nails, so I'm using wood screws that I have. I have to it to work now. And I don't have road bed because I'm going for a branch line look and I thought that having cork would make the ballast to "deep". Basically what I do is cut away 2 ties on one end and 3 on the other (has to do with the way the ties are connected). Then in between the first and second tie I put in a screw then bend it. At the other end I put in another screw. I run 2 of my 60' flats over it to make sure it works. I still need to install one more piece to complete the main line.

 

Don't use a soldering GUN anywhere near electric motors or other windings (Such as an electric guitar pickup)! Guys who work on guitars use soldering IRONS ! I don't know the actual science behind it, but soldering guns with a fast warm-up cause big magnetic disturbances for windings.

Tom

 

Thanks, Guys, for the soldering gun tips. I was not aware of these.
Never too old to learn, huh!

Wish't I would have known that when my son thought he was gonna be a heavy metal star. I would sure have tried it!

 

I have used a 200W Wen Soldering gun on MRR track for many years on both DC and DCC layouts. I have never fried a loco or decoder doing so. However I never soldeer with a loco anywhere near where I am working. Like I said in an earlier post my soldering gun is older than I am. So it is more than 54 years old. I don't use it too much any more but I would be afraid to use it on my layout.
Bob Wintle MMR
Parsons,Ks.

 

Folks,
As a model railroader and a ham radio operator let me say that the type of soldering gun you are describing in this article is called a "pistol grip" or "gun" type and will most definitely affect sensitive electronics since the current travels from one pole of the iron to the other in a current loop. Let me suggest that you use a Weller "Soldering Station" for your flex track soldering and DCC encoder needs. The Weller is an iron and not a gun. It has adjustments for heat output which allows precise temperature control, and you can get a wide assortment of tips. I suggest using a flat tip or "chisel" style tip on flex track, a medium pencil tip for general soldering of wires, and a fine "micro" tip for the delicate soldering of the DCC encoders. Also, a good magnifying eye glass is handy. I use the jeweler verision that has a head band and a visor that you can flip up and out of the way. The solder station cost about $170 and the magnifying head band is $40, tips are about $5 each, and the MicroMark catalog carries all of them.
George|-|

 

I bought a pair of the new Xuron rail cutters and the work good especially if you don't want to or can't use a moto tool

 

Update: I have all the track installed on the main and the industry tracks, that just leaves the yard and engine facility track. Also I have a question. I have a 30 watt soldering iron, is there a way I can use one of those box deals to turn the wattage up from 30 to 50 or 60?

 

Ethan:
The wattage of your iron cannot be turned up. You have what you have.
Bob

 

Ok, then I will have to buy one.

 

I received some N scale Atlas code 80 flex for Christmas. Should the sliding rail go to the inside or outside of a turn?

Joe

 

If you are laying a curve than it needs to be to the inside. Because if it's to the outside then it is shorter than the ties. I think it's easier to not have to deal with the extra trouble of having on the outside.

 

Thanks for the info guys! It's been about 20 years since I used Atlas flex and my previous layout had Micro Engineering code 55. Seems I heard that one direction reduced track gage, but just couldn't remember which. Never noticed any problems in the past. See Modeling of Frisco>N Scale>General>New Track Plan post #6 for my layout plan. Have a gift card from local home improment store to buy the plywood. Hopefully can start laying track by mid February. Still have some prep work on room.
Will Peco code 80 turnouts fit Atlas flex without modification?

Joe

 

I got a new soldering iron. It's only a 40 watt, but it heats up to 900 degrees (f). And the chisel is so big that solder drips off the end of it and melts the ties. I will have to have my dad fix that. But it works pretty well for teh technique that Rick and Bob showed me.

PS: if you have sectional track, get rid of it. flex track runs sooooooooooo much smoother.

 

I got a problem. My dad grinded down the chisel to a pencil tip, but now the solder runs off of it like it's water. How do I get the solder to stick to the iron?

 

What type of new iron did you get? Is it a pencil iron or is it adjustable? If it is adjustable try turning your temperature down. Also when you are actually doing the soldering you only need to lightly touch the solder to the tip to "tin it" before starting the soldering. When you are actually doing the soldering you touch the solder to the items that you are soldering, not the tip. The solder must flow through or on the item you want to remain soldered. If you touch it to the tip you could have what is refered to as a cold solder joint.
Hope this helps.
Bob