I have sectional track on my layout, but I bought it used off ebay. It is a mixture of steel and brass. It is dirty and rust so the trains don't run to good on it. I was at the hobby store today and I picked up some flex track. I took out half a curve and tried to put it in, but I wouldn't fit. Any help on how to curve the entire piece of track, and not just the part your not holding on to? Also what do you guise recommend I do for cutting it?
It's a tricky job trying to patch an existing curve with a piece of flex track. I would replace all your existing hodge-podge track with good quality flex track but start on a straight section. Track is the last place to scrimp on money and time. Do it right the first time and you'll never regret it. I use a dremel cut off wheel to cut rail but others use rail nippers.
Ok. 1. I don't want to spend 100 bucks on a dremel for this small project. 2. last time I used rail nippers it left the ends of the rail really rough.
Zona and Xacto make small saw that will cut track and can be used for many other projects. I prefer the Xacto as it has wider blade so you can make deeper cuts. Not reoevant for cutting track, but sometimes needed for a kitbash. ALSO, a fine blade hacksaw blade will work, and for cutting track, you don't even need a hacksaw frame. If the end of the track is a little rough, hit it with a file. Kent in KC
I found a small cordless rechargeable Dremel at Walmart for $19.00. That was the regular price and it came with a nice handful of accessories including a bunch of cut off wheels and the bits for the cut off wheels. Very nice set up. And Quiet too. I also buy alot of my track on uh hmmm uh hmm Ebayyyyyy, and I get some pretty good deals on New Flex Track. I rarely buy used unless the lot has something in it I cant live without. I hope this helps.
Xuron rail nippers are what I use. If you have tried these and it left the rail messed up you were using them backwards. Basically you want to cut with the flush end of the nipper towards the end of the rail you want to cut. I'll do a video and post it later. A small file will also be very handy to dress up the ends of the track. I have several guages that I use when laying curves but I do not have any as small as 18". Bob Wintle
I don't have any of the fancy tools. When I had a section of track (later replaced by a switch) that needed to be cut, I used wire cutters. I think my dad has an attachment to go on the grinder that will do the trick. I think he's used it before on a switch that I needed shortened.
Ethan: As Bob Wintle mentioned, Xuron rail nippers are the way to go. I will add that they now make two versions. The original version that Bob referenced seems to make a cleaner cut in my opinion. The difference is that the new one cuts the track holding the tool at a vertical angle to the track where the original one cuts it by holding it horizontal to the rail. Two words of caution: (1) Always wear protecttive eyeware! and (2) Don't cut anything else with any rail nipper as it will ruin it!
Ok, I got a piece of straight on the board with a rerailer at the end. But I had to take it off so I could work on the 2 pieces of the curve. I have seen on youtube where you solder the rail joiners from underneath and then lay the curve. Well, I tried the technique that Rick and Bob showed me by tinning the iron at the end of the joiner and the solder to the track and the other end of the joiner. But it never began to melt. And another observation is that the solder doesn't stick well to the joiners. What do you guys recommend?
Ethan, what wattage soldering iron are you using? It is possible that your soldering iron isn't powerful enough to get it, heat the spot quickly and get out.
Ethan: It has been so long since I have soldered any track with anything other than my solder station, I do not remember the wattage of my old pencil iron. I think it is a 45 or 50 watt iron. I can't find it right now and I may have thrown it away. I also used to use my old Wen soldering gun but it was overkill as it was a 200 watt one that is older than I am. I am not sure of the wattage of my solder station. I usually set it to abot 650 to 700 degrees before I use it. It is a Radio shack and I like it very much. Hopefully some one who still uses a regular pencil type iron to solder their track can chime in. Bob
Yea, My 30 watt is a radio shack. I'll ask my dad about it tomorrow. And that blue voltage box deal that Rick has that was set up at the demo station, do I need one of those?
The one Rick has would be a great choice. I am not sure where he got it. Here is a link to an upgraded version of the one I have. It says it is a 60W one. http://www.radioshack.com/search/in...ldering station&origkw=Soldering Station&sr=1 It is on sale at Radio Shack for $64.99. I looked it up and both the stores in Joplin have one in stock. They are out of stock on line. There is also one listed on eBay and is going for $20 right now. Just do a search for Radio Shack Soldering station under all catagories. Bob
Thanks. My dad said we would look around tomorrow. WE used to have a radio shack in Lamar, but it closed. I'm preaty sure I can find one at the hardware store. PS I tried hand laying a curve, but it is way to tight. any help on laying out a straight curve? My problem is I can't get about 2-4" inches on the end to bend. Any solutions at all that don't involve getting a gauge that is preset to 18R?
Ethan .. to lay proper track your need proper tools. Try and get yourself a good "used" Dremel and a dual heat "100-140 watts" Weller soldering gun. Just be sure and get some extra tips for the gun. An old oxidized tip is just as bad as anything you have described. Both my Weller and Dremel went bonk after 35 years and I replaced them both off EBay for about $45.00. Both were in excellent condition. Your problem of trying to replace 18r sectional track with flex on a curve is a challenge for a good modeler - I must have missed something - why don't you just put sectional track back in?
3 reasons: 1. my sectional track is first and rusty. 2. my cars and engines didn't run that well on it. 3. flex track will require less soldering.
Go to a hobby shop and see if they have, or can get you a radius gauge. I bought one for 24" radius and it works wonderful! The gauge will come in handy later on too. If not, use a piece of 18" radius section track as a template, I did that back when I first started modeling and it worked out alright, it just takes some patience.
