I've been thinking about some of the details on the West Bottoms layout. While operating other layouts my success rate on using a pick to uncouple Kadees is about 70%. Sometimes I just don't seem to be able to get them seperated. Has anyone had experience using Kadee under track uncoupling magnets? Do they work? Do you get unwanted uncoupling when rolling over them? Do they work well with metal wheelsets? John
Dear Boomer, How are you? I am fine. BTW, my PM box is emptied out some. Sorry about that. Magnets, hmmmmmm. They are great on spurs, when the stars (and glad hands) are all in alignment. They will need to be marked with a spot of paint or some scenery like a barrel, pallet, etc. Using magnets means the couplers will need to have good springs, appropriate glad hand height, etc. So a little more maintenance. They are not so good on the main line and do create unwanted and frustrating uncoupling. I have operated on layouts with electromagnets on the main which work great but they take extra time. If you decide on magnets, I would suggest that you use the big ones and put them under the track/ties. The ones that fit in between the rails don't look so good. Not sure about the wheelsets and the magnets. Most operators I know just use the bamboo skewers - cheap and realtively effective.
Ah yes - sometimes I refer to it as the large "hand crane". I can't speak too much about the magnets, as I haven't been exposed to, or used them, in my limited operating experience. I will say that, having operated on Rick's layout, a couple of times now, uncoupling by hand has become progressively easier with practice. Especially with the wireless walk-around throttles, that Rick uses, I find that, when I move around with my train and locomotive, it's like being part of the train crew. On my first operating session, it was a struggle to get the nack of manually uncoupling the cars. However, with some practice, it's become easier. This is only an opinion, and hopefully someone will share their experience with magnets. Bob
Kind of a shame after all these years (Of hi-tech electronic gadgetry and precision modeling) couplers don't really work much better than the Mantuas or the so-called "NMRA" (X2F's) did !!?! Tom
As Rick has noted they are great on sidings or spurs. Mismatched coupler hieghts and types will uncouple unwantedly at slow speeds. For instance if some of your fleet are regular KD #5s' and some are the newer scale 58's they will uncouple from each other at slow speeds. I have a few on my layout and they work great 90% of the time. As Rick has also stated you must keep up the maintenance on them for them to be reliable. I have marked my uncoupling ramps with yellow paint on the side of the rails and outside of the ties. It helps me to remember where they are. I really prefer uncoupling with a pick just as Rick does on his layout. Just my opinion though. Have fun. Bob Wintle Oh yeah, some of the older metal axle trucks will actually be attracted to the magnet and stop right over the middle of it. It is kinda wierd seeing that happen from time to time.
Most layouts I have been to have used bamboo or wood skewers for uncoupling. At least two have had some special plastic uncoupling tools as well (I can't remember the brand) that have a flattened profile at the uncoupling end which acts as a parting tool on the curved hook of the couplers as you rotate the tool. They work really well. I will try to find out the manufacturer. Also, the ends of the skewers could be flattened to improve uncoupling. I found out the plastic uncoupling picks are made by Grandt Line (http://www.grandtline.com/) but are un-cataloged. To order requires a phone call to them.
Accurail makes one, their newer ones that are made out of yellow plastic are not nearly as good as their older ones that are made from an orange colored plastic. The newer ones are a little more brittle and break alot easier. Kadee also makes one that is very nice that has a spring pic on the opposite end that is very handy. The accurail uncoupling tool has clips on it so that it can be clipped in a shirt pocket which is also very handy. Bob Wintle HO Pickman. I mainly use the Orange Accurail but am down to my last two. I keep losing them. By the way both brands can be ordered off of their companies websites.
I like these by Rix http://trainsandthings.co.za/trains...d=43&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26&vmcchk=1
I have tried these and had good luck with them until about the second time I dropped one on the concrete floor of my garage. Not only did the magnet come off of one side the plastic handle broke. Bob Wintle I now have fatigue mats from sears in the aisleways which not only help the feet but has helped me from breaking as much stuff when it slips from my numb figertips.
John, My recommendation is to use bamboo skewers for uncoupling. The key to success in using the tool is to have a little slack in the coupled joint. The consistent use of a quality coupler of one brand and size (5 or 58) also strongly influence positive results. Skewer tools are portable and therefore, can be used to uncouple anywhere you need to do work. This increases operator decision making and satisfaction as they are not forced to only uncouple at a predetermined fixed location. The tools are readily available in any cooking section of a store. They are sold in large quantities at low cost. This is a good thing for such a useful tool. They seem to come in two general sizes, approximately 1/8" and 1/4" in diameter. My experience is that the smaller size works the best. Hope this helps. Thanks! Mark
John, A couple of ideas against using magnets for uncoupling. Fixed magnets seem to seldom ever be in the correct place for convenient and effective use. Further, I find they are seldom reliable when you need them to work. To me they seem to work best at frustrating operators as they seem to work best when you do not want them to uncouple. Magnets do attract metal. I have unfortunately experienced on a few layouts unintentional attraction to a magnet. This is common with metal axle wheel sets and some car weights. This seems to be common with axles with plastic wheels (older Athearn, etc.). Additional disadvantages include the expense issues related to the time needed to install and cost of purchasing. If you have a few limited access areas, that you feel must have a magnet, use an electromagnet. These can be activated only when needed by pushing a momentary contact button. Release the button, stops the electrical current and deactivates the magnet preventing unwanted uncoupling. However, I strongly feel the best alternative is an amended design that will permit operator access without a magnet. Hope this helps. Thanks! Mark
If you want a wooden (bamboo) uncoupler, the chop sticks from Chinese resturants are good starters. Tom
I got my first bamboo skewers on a trip to the Chocolate Fountain at the Cherokee Casino in Tulsa. Mike Peters and I went to Tulsa for the Tulsa Line Op session a few years ago and eating at the Casino was part of the event. I ate several Chocolate covered strawberries that night and came away with a few coupler picks to boot. I later found a bag of shorter ones at the grocery store for .99 cents. They also come in handy when using foam sheets for scenery. I just shove them in the foam in several places and they help hold everything together while the glue dries. Bob Wintle
I agree with Bob that bamboo skewers are cheap. A bag of 100 are a dollar at Wal Mart in the housewares section. One additional thought about magnets. If you decide to use the large magnets that go under the ties, I suggest that you operate extensively with them before permanently gluing in place. That way you should be able to find the best place to put them before they become permanent. Ripping out ballasted track, magnet, etc is no fun. OK one more. For track that will be placed directly on the subroadbed (like the plywood used for a yard or town), the magnets that go under the ties will need a pocket to lay in. This means extra work to cut or chisel out the pocket. The pocket will need to be in the right place too. Electro magnets are often large and will require this extra work to put in place too. Bottom line is "what do you want and how much work to do want to do?" Rule 1 is always in force.
