Track Electrical Reliability

Discussion in 'General' started by klrwhizkid, Nov 14, 2011.

  1. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    In another forum, the topic came up and Rick McClellan made the following comment:



    Regardless of the power source, AC, DC or DCC, there are some basic things that significantly affect electrical reliability as Rick alluded but I will expand upon:

    1) Electrical power must be fed directly to each segment of rail (regardless how small) via a soldered connection.

    2) Rail joiners are only good for making mechanical connections between rails and are not reliable electrical connections over time. Oxidation will form between the joiners and rail.

    3) Rail and wheel cleanliness is a must for reliable operation. Oxidation of the rail and wheels will occur on all metals except solid gold rail and solid gold wheels. Oxidation of other materials on the rail (dust, plastics and oil) caused by the normal tiny electrical arcing between the rail and wheels is another issue.

    Rail cleaning should not be done with any type of abrasive. Abrasives will actually create more exposed surface area on the rails by creating minute grooves in the railhead. The best approach is to use a solution that protects the rail and wheel surfaces while not providing a product that attracts dust or breaks down when exposed to electrical current flow.
    The best thing I have found is from Aerocar Lubricants; their Track Cleaner and Conditioner.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 14, 2011
  2. yardmaster

    yardmaster Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Keith -
    Very good summary, and one that I'll refer back to quite often.

    Thus far in our condensed version of Olathe, even a two-inch splice of flex track is getting its own feeder. Years ago I read "Rick's Tips" in the old "All Aboard" magazines, and remember using his track wiring article as my starting point.

    Dirty track makes a HUGE difference. On one section of track where I've brushed painted the rails with rust and slopped a little on the rail head, it's interesting to see how my HO-scale Bolshevik cruises along until it hits the painted rail, and it immediately starts to stall.

    Best Regards,
     
  3. KCTRWY

    KCTRWY Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Noticed an ad in the current MR for a product called NeverStal marketed by Daylight Sales in Sacramento. According to their claims it is not a track cleaner but an oxidation remover. A 6 ml tube sells for $20 plus shipping. (6 ml is not very large). However, if it's as good as the ad says then it might be worth it. Anyone have any experience with this product? Jim S.
     
  4. FriscoGeorge

    FriscoGeorge Frisco Employee

    Keith,
    I have had the same problem with painted track causing stalls, and have decided to just paint my track ties and not the rails. For me "close enough" is fine in realism, but electrical reliability is essential in function. Also, if you use DCC remember to use feeders every few feet because of the voltage drops.
    FriscoGeorge
     
  5. pensive

    pensive Member Frisco.org Supporter

    I've painted track with an airbrush before. Immediately after I finished a section, I rubbed the paint off the top of the rails with a rag soaked with solvent. The results looked good and there were no problems with conductivity.

    Rich
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 27, 2011
  6. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Me too. Especially the inner lip of the rail head.
     
  7. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Jim James caught the additional tip I was going to point out. The tops and insides of the railheads must be clean of paint, dirt, plaster, dry wall dust, etc.

    Those sections of rail that must be powered include frogs in turnouts whenever possible, however, the frogs must be power-routed based upon turnout position.
     
  8. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Bright Boys abrade the rail surface and leave rubber residue that will cause problems.

    Goo Gone is a definite no-no; it leaves a residue that will become non-conductive after exposure to the minute arcing between the wheels and rail.

    Transmission fluid is somewhat of a solvent that can damage some plastics and it will attract dust; another non-recommended item.

    Oil is not good for the brushes, it will soften them and reduce their life, and the arcing there will convert the oil into carbon that will, over time, create resistance to current flow.

    I will refer you back to the folks at the link in my post #1; they make special cleaner and protector for rails that will result in improved performance without attracting dust.
     
  9. TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020)

    TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020) Passed Away July 15, 2020 Frisco.org Supporter

    Rubbing the rail tops with a piece of balsa works for me. Not too abrasive (If at all), but it does take a little more elbow grease than a Bright-Boy or other abrasives.

    Tom G.
     
  10. Rick McClellan

    Rick McClellan 2009 Engineer of the Year

    We have some guys in KC that use scrap blocks of wood to clean the tops of the rails.
     
  11. Rick McClellan

    Rick McClellan 2009 Engineer of the Year

    A lot of the KC layout owners use light lubricating oil like Wahl clipper oil or LaBelle 101 sparingly on the rail head. Others, like me, use it to clean locomotive wheels as well. Not doubting what Keith is saying but I will add that my Kato UP SD40s I purchased in 1991 are still going strong.
     

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