SLSF 1326

Discussion in 'Cabooses' started by r c h, Dec 4, 2012.


    SAFN SAAP Member

    Very nice. What yellow did you use?
  2. William Jackson

    William Jackson Bill Jackson

    I am now taking any and all tips on gluing the end steps together.
    The other issue, is the stanchions, I suppose, you string them on the handrail, and then glue the ends, adjust the centers to proper height.
    William Jackson
  3. yardmaster

    yardmaster Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporter

    Ryan -
    Excellent work...especially on the weathering, in my option. The HO stencil and reweigh marks are an especially nice touch. The only thing I see missing between prototype and model is that the prototype appeared to have renumbered/repainted the "2" in the 1326.

    Otherwise, I think she looks as good as any photos I've seen of models at various prototype modeling meets.

    Best Regards,
  4. r c h

    r c h Ft Worth - Tulsa Engineer

    Originally I mixed the yellow color from two different shades of yellow and faded it with white. I couldn't tell you how I did it then and I probably couldn't duplicate it now.

    But earlier today I decided to make a new smokejack to replace the one I carved out of sprue. This one is made from 1/16" diameter brass tube and a little piece of 0.005" sheet cut and rolled to form the rain shield. I have recently purchased several bottles of paint and lo and behold I found an excellent match in Testors Model Master Cadmium Yellow Light. A little weathering - actually, a lot of weathering, but it is a smokejack - and it blends right in. The best part is the see-through area under the rain shield.

  5. r c h

    r c h Ft Worth - Tulsa Engineer

    I sure am sorry for the late replies, William. I also had issues with the steps. I just kept at it and finally got them together, but it did take a few tries.

    When I was installing the handrails, I glued the stanchions in place first, then installed the styrene rod railing. I wish those stanchions were etched brass parts because they are awful delicate. I've broken them a couple times now, but fortunately they have been easy to repair with Tamiya liquid cement. Etched parts would be much easier to deal with and would allow the opportunity to solder the wire railings which would result in a very strong handrail.

    The curved grabs were made using 0.012" brass wire. I just rolled a no. 11 knife handle over the wire several times until it took a curve. I checked it a few times against the model and kept rolling it until it had the right curve. Just trial and error!
  6. r c h

    r c h Ft Worth - Tulsa Engineer

    Thanks, Chris. I'll have to see about replicating that repaint look. It's going to take more weathering to do it, which makes me a little nervous since it's so easy to overdo light colored models, but I'll just have to take a shot.
  7. BN8002

    BN8002 Did someone say B-Unit?

    Fantastic looking model. I have the kit for this and have put off building it for no good reason. Maybe it is time to finally build it

Share This Page