Repainting Proto 2000 Steam

Discussion in 'Modeling Tips' started by Boomer John, Oct 23, 2010.

  1. Boomer John

    Boomer John Member

    I have an undec and GM&O 0-6-0 working the West Bottoms. It is time to get serious about getting them repainted and the cookskins hanging from the searchlight. I have not had much luck finding someone to repaint these locally, so I guess it is on me. Has anyone had any experience taking these locomotives apart to repaint them. Isn't there a product that debonds the glue used to assemble them, seems like I read about it in MR at some point. Both locos need a graphite smokebox, red cab roof and the plastic shine taken off.
     
  2. Rick McClellan

    Rick McClellan 2009 Engineer of the Year

    John,

    I thought just occurred to me .. . . . .. . .

    I think the main parts you need to convert a plastic steam engine from one road to another is a factory painted cab and tender shell. Have you considered getting them from Walthers. If they have the replacement parts, it would be easier and probably less expensive to convert your engine.

    I have gotten replacement cabs from Stewart and Atlas and would be surprised if Walthers did not have the parts. Not sure what the cost would be but you can get the info through there Customer Service Dept.
     
  3. renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013)

    renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013) Passed away March 8, 2013

    There is usually a screw under the cylinders that lines up with the smoke stack that can be used to remove the boiler shell. There may or may not be screws either under the cab, or on the cab back that have to be removed. The coonskin number board and Plye-National headlights are readly available in brass. The tender shell should also come off, you might have to remove the truck screws, or other screws on the bottom that hold it in place. There is no need to un-glue anything. I caqn show you how to install a LED for the headlight if you are interested.
    Richard
     
  4. Boomer John

    Boomer John Member

    Taking the cab off, even to repaint is a good idea. The real difficult thing
    to paint is going to be the graphite smokebox.

    I got a quote from a profesisonal painter, $200 if they don't have to mess witrh the drivers.
     
  5. Rick McClellan

    Rick McClellan 2009 Engineer of the Year

    Boom,

    Just sent an email to Walthers to check on price and availability of a SLSF cab and tender shell. Should hear back in the next day or so. They are pretty good in their Customer Service Dept.
     
  6. Sirfoldalot

    Sirfoldalot Frisco.org Supporter Frisco.org Supporter

    That's absurd! :mad:
     
  7. frisco1522

    frisco1522 Staff Member Staff Member

    I have one of them and did some "Friscoizing" on it. Tender isn't right, but I used it anyway. Also the tender has the "big" numbers (36") instead of the the 30" so I removed them and relettered it.
    I didn't even change out the headlight as there were a couple that had the bucket headlight on them. Cut the Coonskin off of the Kemtron/PSC headlight bracket and there you go.
    I've never been fond of those engines, but this one was sort of a gift, so I gave it the quick & dirty treatment. Runs nice.
     
  8. Rick McClellan

    Rick McClellan 2009 Engineer of the Year


    Don,

    How did you remove the numbers?
     
  9. Rick McClellan

    Rick McClellan 2009 Engineer of the Year

    Bad news. Randy McPhail of Walthers replied that they are out of Frisco cabs and tenders for the 0-6-0s. Painting appears to be the only option unless we find something on Ebay or other websites.
     
  10. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Hey Rick,

    Sorry to hear that. It's been the story for me on my searches too. I've gotten to the point that I'm measuring and starting to make stuff from brass. It may be slow and tedious, but I'm willing to try it.
     

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