Discussion in 'General' started by Iantha_Branch, Sep 15, 2019.
Now we’re talk’n my kind of railroading!
I know what you're describing with the switch frogs. I've noticed it, but haven't had much issue with it to this point. I hadn't thought about about painting the track before ballasting. I like the way that turned out. Maybe one day if I settle on a track plan, I'll have to give that a try.
I designed the layout with 5 yard tracks, long enough to hold lengthy trains. I think the middle track holds a consist of 4 locos and 25ish cars.
I think my favorite part is I was able to incorporate some larger radius curves. The tightest radius is 26", and it goes all the way up to 35.5".
At this point, I still have room for another consist.
It's a lot easier to paint the track before ballast, I used rattle can black on mine because I'm modeling steam era and early diesel. After spraying wipe the track tops with a rag with alcohol, then weather the sides with rust color paint. A Masonite pad will polish the rails and remove any debris.
I just noticed looking at the picture of painted EZ track . When I cleaned the paint off the railheads with an old popsicle stick, the sides of the railheads got polished too. To me, this actually reduces the apparent height of the code 100 rail, helping its appearance. Keep that in mind as you progress on your trackwork.
Your name is Ethan? You’ve got more EZ track than I’ve ever seen in one place. There’s a lot of painting and ballasting to do but it will look good in the end. You are right, it really does hold together well, after all it’s intended to take a toy train beating. Much better for the rug under the Christmas tree than snap track ever was. I’ve never had derailments where EZ track sections join each other.
If you are only running diesels the raised EZ track frogs may not be an issue. I had to get them level before I could operate a 4-4-0, and even the bigger steam engines didn't like them that much.
Oh, about painting the EZ track. If you haven’t fastened it down, you can take out sections at a time, paint them and even ballast on the workbench (keep back from the exposed ends a hair) and reinstall when dry. That way you don’t leave the back side of the rail unpainted..... and doing it on a workbench is way, way better than bending over the layout..... and not getting the back painted. After you get them back down, you touch up the ballast at the bare mating edges.
Sorry to be so yakky about the track. But I’ve already made all the mistakes so I can tell you about them.
I appreciate all of the input you've given. I may try to paint and ballast a few sections and see how it holds up to being handled afterward.
The nice thing about this layout, is I designed it to be at desk height. I can roll around in an office chair to operate and work on stuff. It's been really nice not being on my feet to do anything.
I saw your rolling office chair and thought, there’s a guy like me. I have two of those plus a piano stool for any “wide” visitors. My layout is at a 36” height because it has to traverse in front of 5 windows mostly, but also because I used Lowe’s chrome wire storage tables for support.
My friend has a much larger layout than I, at the much touted 54” height. I have to say, after a 2 hr op there I’ve had it. He thoughtfully has put out some studio type wood stools which really helps.
Ethan, like your layout design and the size of it. That's a big train room.
When painting the sides of your track you only need to do what is visible from the front. The backside doesn't need to be painted, that cuts what is needed in half and will save time.
I'm like you about sitting in a chair, I use Cynthia's old wheelchair to do a lot of things on my layout.
The reason I say paint both sides is that in my case I anticipate eventually moving and relocating the layout, and if the layout back becomes the front, I would then have unpainted rail that can’t be painted because of the ballast. If the track is ever intended to be reinstalled in a different setting I recommend painting it all as a precaution. Also, sometimes I drop the camera on the back side of the track. I haven’t had unpainted rail show yet but it could.
If none of this applies, yes, painting the back of the track would be a waste of paint and time.
One thing I haven’t done is very lightly mist over the steam era track with a flat black spray bomb, as Joe said. Although, if you are on an oil burning division, you wouldn’t have coal dust.
Looks like a great home layout, ETHAN --- Let'em roll!
After a few months of having the relaxing railroad, I decided to get ambitious again. After thinking about it some more, I decided that if I could come up with a good track plan to use it, I would add on a 2nd level to the layout to give me enough space to somewhat model a subdivision. I drew up a few plans, but naturally I have chosen the Ash Grove sub, late 70's era like normal for me. The plan includes Ft. Scott and Springfield for end points. Each has a small classification yard, and 3 tracks to hold full trains as they come and go. I was limited on space, but was able to include a couple industries for each. Beyond that, there are 3 other locations on the layout: Arcadia, Iantha and Lamar. Arcadia served as the northern terminus for the Parsons Sub. Mostly coal traffic in and out at Arcadia. There are two tracks yard tracks for handling the local coal traffic, as well as a condensed branch down to the Clemmons mine at Mertz. The KCS crossing at Last Chance/Buck/Ardath makes an appearance in the corner, just happened to fit there. Iantha includes the MFA fertilizer plant and MFA grain elevator. Lamar includes industries of Barton County oil, Thorco, O'Sullivans and the MFA elevator, as well as a MoPac interchange.
Well see how it goes. If it works out as intended, it should be a nice layout. Track plan posted below.
It may be me, but I can't see how the two levels are connected based on the lines in the illustrations. I see on the lover level where the line from Ft Scott makes the curve and continues "up to the top", but I don't see an indication on the upper level where there is an indication "down to bottom".
Oops, I meant to include an annotation on the upper level. In the lower left hand corner of the layout plan, there will be a helix to connect the two levels. The large circle that swings out into the isle in that corner is roughly where the helix will go.
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