Cary HO Shell

Discussion in 'Fairbanks-Morse & Company (F-M)' started by w3hodoug, Apr 27, 2019.

  1. w3hodoug

    w3hodoug 2008 Engineer of the Year Frisco.org Supporter

    Have any of you modeled the H-10/12/-44s using the old Cary metal shell? If so, how did you illuminate the cab-end light? Thanks, Doug
     
  2. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    I haven't, but you might consider a pre-wired 0402 warm white led. Dip it in Aleene's Clear Gel Tacky Glue and let it cure so it will be insulated, insert wires through hole drilled through the reflector and then use Aleene's to make a big blob with the shell standing vertically and let cure. It will make a great lens.
     
  3. Great info Keith.
     
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  4. w3hodoug

    w3hodoug 2008 Engineer of the Year Frisco.org Supporter

    Keith, my problem is not knowing how to drill the hole into the cab interior. I was hoping someone had succeeded. There's no margin for error with that cab interior casting. I could just give up and find a Walthers H-10-44, but I'm impressed with the Cary casting weight. It should be a great puller, just like the prototypes. Doug
     
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  5. gna

    gna Member Frisco.org Supporter

    I bid on one on eBay, but lost. Maybe you outbid me? I thought the same about the weight.
    Good info. I could try that on these old steamers I have, too. Didn't know about Aleene's.
     
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  6. meteor910

    meteor910 2009 Engineer of the Year Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Doug -
    I bought the Cary model shell way back when, but never did anything with it. When Walthers came out with their first detailed plastic shell FM H10-44, I bought one of those and sold the Cary on eBay, or one of the other sale sites. Then when Walthers came out with their second version of the H10-44 model, I bought two, a red/white and a black/yellow. Very nice! I then set aside the first Walthers. Then I sold all three when we came to Florida. Now I have none! See how it goes with me? Ha!

    BTW, if a H12-44 is wanted, I would suggest building one based on the first Walthers model. It has some features that are closer to the H12-44 than to the H10-44. Plus, its drive runs well with the second Walthers model drives. That was my plan with the first Walthers model, but I never did it.

    K
     
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  7. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Doug, since I have not seen one before I can't provide much guidance, however if you can post good pictures of the outside rear of the cab and rear inside of the cab, I think that I could provide a recommendation. Either way I would use a #53 bit with the recommended LED.
     
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  8. w3hodoug

    w3hodoug 2008 Engineer of the Year Frisco.org Supporter

    Thanks Keith.
     
  9. w3hodoug

    w3hodoug 2008 Engineer of the Year Frisco.org Supporter

    The No. 53 could go straight through the cab back wall where the light casting is, but there's no exit point inside the cab. I'd had to drill from the cab interior toward the roof and hope to meet the No. 53 hole for the wire feeds. It has catastrophe written all over it. The 2nd option is to just mask off the light circle, leave it metal colored, and cover it with a circle of clear styrene. I was hoping someone had paved the way two or three decades ago. That's when I first started this conversion. In fact, I wrote it up in a FMIG newsletter.
     

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  10. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Looking at the photos, I am not intimidated. The hole inside from the bottom up could be much larger and would be drilled first. The key is the use of a drill press and stops to limit the depth to just what would be necessary to intersect with the #53. If you want me to do that for you, let me know.
     
  11. w3hodoug

    w3hodoug 2008 Engineer of the Year Frisco.org Supporter

    Thanks Keith. I do have the drill press and know how to set the stops. I'll let you know. A drill press is definitely a requirement.
     

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