Worked on some locos the last couple of weeks. I keep seeing ex-SLSF B30-7s here on the Minnesota Commercial, so I thought it would be fun to model one. I ran across a Bachmann B23-7/B30-7 for $15, so why not? I stripped the paint, added pickup wires to the trucks,rewired for DCC, then decided the fuel tank had to go, so I followed this advice: http://espee.railfan.net/b23-7tank.html The frame was easy to grind down, the fuel tank not that easy to build. I managed to get it all back together. I'm trying to find the correct AAR B sideframes from Bachmann. I decided to grind the weight on my walthers H10-44, and I install a Tsunami 2 and a "sugar cube" speaker. Somehow shoehorned it all in: I still to need to wire in the keep alive capacitor and neaten up the wiring. The shell is going to go in the Alcohol bath next. As long as I was at it, put a Tsunami 2 I got in the SOundtraxx trade in on Tsunami in Stewart F3. This was easy, just plug in and solder speaker leads. I was much happier with the motor control and programming the Tsunami 2 decoders, though the "Alarm bell" will take some getting used to.
Very simple to program that sound out, set the Alarm Bell Volume: Set CV 135 to 0, or some low value, maybe 30. BTW, be careful with the output levels from the Tsunami 2 and Econami decoders with the sugar cube type speakers. Their 2 watt amplifiers with high volume levels can damage and short the voice coil in the speaker which can then kill the amplifier on the decoder. I start with the Master Volume level (CV 128) set to 100 and adjust the other volume levels down from their defaults.
I remember you giving that warning--I pre-programmed the decoder before soldering the speaker leads, so I could set master to 100 and bring other levels down. As far as the alarm bell, I've got it set to 25 on both locos. I question some of the sounds--toilet flush?--but they sound very good and run very well.
Car upgrade project had slow orders, see the "Seligman and Beyond" thread for details, but tiny progress has been made in the car shop. I ordered and received JB coupler mounting pads for the lightweight passenger cars to body mount the couplers as well as the Kadee couplers to install (#146s). I discovered I will need longer screws for them to go thru the draft box and coupler mounting pad. I don't like having only the glue holding the mounting pads on, sounds like a recipe for trouble.
H10-44 Shell no longer Pennsy: Managed to loosen the cab, and get the glass out. Will make painting easier: I also worked with some old crossbucks someone gave me. I removed the bulbs and wired in red LEDs, and tried an Arduino program to cause them to flash:
Besides doing a little work on my current SLSF truck I got a few pieces painted over the last couple weeks for another guy.
Hey Gary, I drilled out all of the holes that I could in the radiator grill on top of my Walthers H10-44 while I was sitting in my hotel room the day before the 2010 Frisco meet here in KC. Four hundred seventy-five (475) of them to be exact. Made for better sound, and it looks good, and it's a conversation starter...
Wow! Was that all by hand, with a pin vise? What size bit? Is that one of the new(er) H10-44s, or one of the old, Roco-made ones?
It it always such a relief to read of a modeler nuttier than one's self. A perverted type of "validation", I suppose. Thank you Keith for helping me to feel better about myself this morning. Andre
Gary, yes, with a pin vise and a numbered bit I chose based on what fit within each of the square indentations. It is one of the Walthers/Roco models. Andre, whose nutty? There was a definite purpose to it and it accomplished what was desired. Besides you can almost do it without looking while watching TV or Youtube videos of other modelers doing something kookier.
Yes, all with the same bit. Took about an hour and a half as best as I can remember. It would go faster with my Tamiya Handy Drill.
First attempts at putting down full profile ties using a template for spacing. Pulled them up with a strip of blue masking tape and secured to a piece of ceiling tile cut to size, with wood glue spread out to secure it. A big thanks to Ken McElreath for getting me started with materials and tools.
Glad to see it. Keep up the good work. My former stuff looks better in your hands than it did in mine! Ken
Just realized I'd uploaded my photo of the "test bed" upside down. My tablet seems to do that for no reason of which I'm aware. Anyway, no photos yet but benchwork for the first section is underway. I'm starting with the Clinton Depot spur as part of a larger plan provided by Karl Brand. See North Clinton in HO Scale I'm leaning toward building things in 4' chunks on the workbench prior to track laying. But, I will probably post those updates on a separate thread. Best Regards,
Not even close to Wednesday but I have a little time now. Here is my weeks projects. Getting the motor built for my Springfield GMC: Also weathering a couple FAs my dad picked up off ebay because he just doesn't have enough stuff. HA: Also gradually getting stuff done on my photo diorama:
Stuck in D.C. for the week and decided to work on JMRI car routing for the new Crawford and Cherokee layout. JMRI will create a nice switch list, and it seems a good approach for a small layout like this: You can omit the loco and caboose pick up, which I am doing for now. I have created a scheme that allows for cars to be swapped on and off the layout on the MoPac interchange and the Cherokee yard track by phantom 0-5-0 moves. I need to research schedules a bit more such that I don't end up with empty or loaded coal hoppers in the wrong places. Getting close to something that works, but need some good train numbers for the area in the 1920s-1930s. If you have an ETT for that time period that has Cherokee and maybe Weir, would be much appreciated. Will post a more complete description the Crawford and Cherokee Update thread when I get it working better. Thanks All, -Bob T.