Gregg, I used a Dayton 1TDP3; it's 75 CFM which should be sufficient for my booth without being noisy. If I were to build a bigger paint arena, then I would probably go above 100 CFM beginning with a 1TDP2 104 CFM but maybe as high as a 1TDP5 131 CFM or 1TDP7 146 CFM. Purchasing decision may be governed by price vs. performance. It is important that the blower motor not be in the moving contaminated air, but one has to provide for cooling air circulation in some manner. Airborne solvent vapors would attack the lubrication of the bearings. I pre-lubed mine with LaBelle 106 with PTFE since it is superior to oil, so I should not have to worry about maintenance.
Keith, if you'd not said a word, I would have thought that it was a boughten paint booth. It's an exceptionally nice looking piece of equipment. The sliding paint shelves are an especially nice touch. Best Regards,
Yea a work of art that paint booth. I would not want to get it dirty lol. So well thought out and put together I could never have anything that nice.
Amazing work of Art, Keith! Sure places my booth of 45 years ago in the shade. It consisted of a cardboard box, no blower, and used a compressor from a refrigerator. I am surprised that I did not blow up the house, spraying all that Floquil, as it was in the basement with the furnace. The way you made the drawers for the paint is a great idea! I do not see a water seperator? Is it on the compressor?
Thanks for all the nice comments. I'm a long-time open auto rack nut. But, I'm not in the same league as Mike Budde. For my models to have scored enough points for merit awards, I'd have needed coupler cut bars, full air brake rigging, auto tie-down chains and tightners, etc. The QC model rack also lacked top-deck hand rails and the drop ramps at the ends of the decks. The judges start at 125 and start looking for deductions.
My contribution to Workshop Wednesday is relatively simple! Now that the granddaughters are back home in Olathe (they had a great time on our Disney Fantasy cruise), I'm going to get my E7 Texas Special SLSF 2003 and E8 SLSF 2020 "Big Red" out of hiding and put them on display again on my office credenza. K
More a "Workbench Wednesday" for me. Working on relocating the behemoth workbench that came with the house - constructed of 2x6 lumber and MDF - and cutting the legs down to a more reasonably sitting level. I do have a workshop/workbench question for all: anyone recommend good pin vise that will hold micro-drill bits (#78, #79, #80)? My old one's worn out so the bits won't hold. A quick pin vise that I grabbed at Hobby Lobby is good for small drill bits, but it won't hold the micro bits. Thoughts? Best Regards,
In the absence of modeling skills and a layout I just do DCC and LEDs...here's a photo of a few things I've been working on. I start in on a Genesis GP40-2 tonight
Robbie, your photo of your layout is great!!! Do you have any more photos that you could share with us? Please tell us about your layout. Joe
I bought mine at Sears several years ago. I'm not sure what make it is, but it looks like this one: Prior to that I tried an X-acto model that was useless.
I did very little modeling this past week, as the weather has been pleasant lately. I played around with placement of buildings some: I worked on backdrops for my friend's layout: For some reason, he wanted trees painted on the lower level backdrop, but most of the time it's not even visible...I had to crouch and reach...oh my aching back...
Chris: Did your Hobby Lobby pin vise come with an extra collet? If so, then the chuck portion will unscrew off and you may find the the current collet that was installed has a teeny tiny orifice on the opposite end. Typically pin vises come with two collets, each having two different sized orifices, one each end, making a total of four different orifices ranging from teeny tiny (closes to essentially zero opening) to larger (up to about 1/8"). Andre