I want to add an interior light and side markers to my wooden caboose. I plan on adding eight wheel pick up and using 820 ohm resistors to all lights. Does this sound right? I also would like to install a decoder to independently operate the lights. Any suggestions on what decoder to use and can that decoder have its own address which will be recognized by a DCC system? I don't want to use a battery and toggle switch to power the lights. I want to use DCC control. It's my new addiction! Thanks for any suggestions and thoughts on the matter.
Jim, This sounds like a very good project. Please make sure you post up all the details. I'd like to do the same for my cabooses. You're building my enthusiasm for DCC. Thanks, Manny
Jim, There are decoders available that are "function only decoders" meaning they only can control lights. You wire it up like a normal decoder (black and red to the track, then your function leads to the lights.) Also those little 1.2m bulbs will not light a caboose, your going to need a bigger bulb or an LED. Bulb would look the best. Ethan
I just want a soft glow light to represent an old lamp inside the caboose say from the conductors desk or something. The headlight I have is plenty bright enough so should be good enough for the caboose plus I have several of them on hand. The decoder you speak of sounds perfect for what I want.
I tried to light a house with one of those bulbs once, but it didn't put out any light to make it look like there was bulb in it. I know you don't want supper bright but I don't think those little bulbs will give you what you want. Ethan
Jim, the Function-only decoder would be great for your appilcation. TCS makes two different sizes: http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/C...oders/HO-Scale/FunctionOnly/Function Only.htm It would be important to use a separate resistor for each bulb. TCS also sells a 1.5v regulator for supply power to 1.5v bulbs.
Alrighty then, I just received my Tomar marker lights and I have a couple of questions. The package contained the components to use DC track power but I'm using DCC. I am going to install a function only decoder to control the lights from my iPhone. The Tomar lamps have LED lights and I want to add a fairly dim incandescent bulb to represent a desk lamp. I need to know which resistors to use for the LED marker lamps( if any) and which to use for the desk lamp. I've never used LEDs, especially in conjunction with an incandescent bulb.
Watching this with enthusiasm, as I want to light my Fredericksburg Depot. However, now that DCC Function is available, that sounds like where I want to go since I don't want it lit all the time. I too only want a warm glow. I don't think that there were a variety of light bulbs in 1913, like there are today. Keep us posted Jim. Thanks Keith for the expansion of information on Ethan's good info.
Can the Tomar Adlake's be used for locomotive markers? Inspiring minds would like to know. Thanks! End of thread borrow.
If you file off the top and bottom decorative parts of the lamp you're left with the main light body which measures about 1 foot tall. It maybe could work but seems too big in my opinion. Maybe on a larger loco than I'm used to.
Jim, you could pull power from the track through pickups on the trucks and then run the DCC power through a bridge rectifier to convert the alternating DC into straight DC. Then you could use the resulting voltage to run bulbs or LEDs with appropriate current limiting resistors. This link will help with the resistor values: http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Technical_Info/Tech_Info/FAQPage.php?q=51 The attached pictures are of bridge rectifiers
The 1.5 volt bulbs are not worth using, they put out so little light. I would use LEDs and the TCS function decoder. Did Tomar give you any specs for the LEDs they sent you? You need to know the Forward voltage drop of the LED and the Maximum forward Current in order to determine the resisitor value you need. You MUST use a resistor in the cathode lead of every LED you use. The decoder Blue wire output is 14Volts. 14 volts minus the forward Voltage drop of the LED divided by the Maximum forward current in AMPs, not Milliamps, equals the resistor value in Ohms. This will give you the Lowest resistor value you can use with that LED. If you do not want the resistor to be so bright, just increase the resistor value. You can dim LEDs a little but not a whole lot. You can use Pure White, Yellow Glow, and Sunny White LED colors. Use a 1/4 watt resisitor, they are not that big. An example, 20 ma is .020 amp. Typlical LED values are 3.5 Volt forward voltage drop @ 20 ma (.020 amp).
Richard, I agree that a decoder would allow more flexibility in that one could turn the lighting functions off and on at will. Although, I would prefer a decoder that supports four-digit addressing. There are some mobile decoders out there cheap enough to fit the bill and one could connect a 100 ohm 1/2 watt resistor in series with the orange and gray motor leads to get the unit to program. That way, one could set the address in the decoder to the address of the caboose and then you really have flexibility and control. For marker lights, the 1.5v 15ma 1.2mm bulbs should be bright enough and are easier to work with than LEDs, however, there are some of the very tiny SMD (surface mount device) LEDs that could fit the bill - but they are directional. Correction: See post#20
The lights came with LED markers, two resistors and and a bridge rectifier or something like that. I already have a bunch of 1.5 incandescent lamps so I will use one for the desk lamp light. The kit instructions assume you use a DC system but I use DCC so I wondered if I needed different resistors for the marker lamps other than what was provided in the kit. I'll use an 820 ohm for the lamp. I guess I'll get a decoder with the orange and grey motor wires to control the lights from my throttle. Maybe I'll just order a decoder and hook up what I already have and see how it goes. Tell again what a good choice would be for a cheap decoder. Just need to run the markers and one lamp and needs to be able to have its own address.
I do not understand Keith's comment, TCS makes function only decoders so you do not have to fool around with the motor connections. They are fully programable without having to deal with the motor function. I would use one of them, and I prefer LEDs because they produce more light and very little heat and last forever. The little blubs on the other hand, produce very little light, and a lot of heat, and they do not last very long, you will for ever be replacing them. Once LEDs are installed correctly you are done.
Richard, I'll order some LEDs and try them out. That way I'll have both types of lights to compare. Aren't the ones called yello glo close enough to old style light if a high enough resistor is used?
My mistake, the TCS FL2 literature leaves one with the impression that it does not support 4 digit addresses. You must also look at their Comprehensive Programming Guide for the rest of the story. Nonetheless, the FL2 Literature does state that there has to be at least 50 -100 ohms of resistance in series with the blue wire and one of the function wires in order to program the decoder.
