Decorating Undecorated(s)?

I have an undecorated GE 44 tonner and an undecorated Alco RS1. I'm going to paint the 44 tonner in a green and black BN scheme and the RS1 in a BNSF pumpkin scheme with the swoosh. JUST KIDDING!!! They're going to get a Frisco/AT&N B/Y scheme. My only attempt to paint a loco was horrible. My later attempt at painting hoppers with black Testors spray cans was much better. I have no air brush nor plans to purchase one in the foreseeable future. I need a "how-to" guide for doing this right. I've read every paint thread on this forum without much help. (Too many threads about orange.) I have contacted someone about RS1 decals. That's all I've done (really nothing) besides getting Keith to program them for DC. Please give me instruction oh wise ones. - Brandon

 

I've been researching the topic of painting locomotives. I'm considering giving the RS1an orginal AT&N scheme but that may change. Check out the builders photo @ http://www.msrailroads.com/AT&N.htm
Can anyone recommend Testors aerosol primer and paint for Frisco B/Y?

 

I would be hesitant to apply primer with an aerosol can. I am assuming you are asking because you do not have, or have never used, an airbrush (which is the way to go). In the past I have painted F-units and an Atlas RS3 without primer. Since you are painting the unit black, it should cover with no trouble. In my experience (lots of it) you only need to shoot primer if you are applying a light color, like yellow, over a dark surface, as the primer will make the yellow--or whatever-- brighter on the finished model. As far as the black goes, Testors will work fine.

GS

 

Got it. No primer. Which shade of Testors yellow should i look for for the handrails and steps? Also, where can I find Frisco/AT&N decals?

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=at&...%2520Flag%2520Thumbnails%2520A-B.aspx;100;100
What color was this original AT&N herald on their RS1s? I can't tell from the b&w photos at
http://www.msrailroads.com/AT&N.htm

 

That's a shame. It is nearly impossible to get a finish from a can that compares with the finish from an airbrush. I have found this to be especially true when applying dull lacquer, which I can easily blend into a semi-gloss or gloss sheen. Paint application is a cinch and you can mix your own colors to match photos if you like. Coupled with an inexpensive "quiet" compressor, you have a painting system that's ready to go at a moment's notice.

I bought one of these on a lark a couple years ago:

http://www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html

I've used Paasche airbrushes for nearly thirty years so I figured this one would be a good "disposable" model if I decided to start messing with acrylics again or if my kids wanted to experiment with the airbrush. It turned out that I like this brush quite a bit and hardly touch the Paasche models anymore. What's more, if I drop it or forget to clean it thoroughly and gum it all up, another one can be had for less than the price of parts for most other airbrushes. I don't recommend Harbor Freight for much, but this airbrush is a great value.

 

I have to agree with the previous post. An airbrush is a MUCH better way to go, and if you are painting a number of models, the cost will tend to amortize out over time. Despite what I said about Testor's flat black (and it will work), you are much better off with an airbrush. Like switching from DC to DCC, it may seem intimidating because of its unfamiliarity, but in the end, you will find yourself wondering why you waited so long to make the change.

GS