Can any one provide a reason for a "resonably sane" person with all most all of his trackplan road bed and code 100 track in place, switching to code 83? I could do that or just pick up 5 or 6 joints of code 100 flex to finish it off as-is. $400 vs $30...is there a reason? Glenn (pondering the above and shoveling out of 5.8" of snow) in Tulsa
I use good old Atlas code 100 for everything I can... I have never had a problem with it, it's just good stuff I think. I used Atlas code 83 w/concrete ties on my MT's and Atlas code 100 in the yards, and don't care what anyone says or thinks The second you paint the rails it just blends in anyway. The reason I used the concrete ties on the MT's was because if it was going to all look like pre-made track, why not go with what was supposed to look like pre-made stuff. And I needed 8 boxes of 100, 3' lengths each, and got a "smokin deal" so far I have used them all but one box of 25 sticks. Just my opinion but if a person is not going to hand lay track or second mortgage the house and farm to use Micro-Enineering flex track or the like, your just as well to use the Atlas code 100 flex track, and run those trains till the wheels fall off. But again just my opinion. Tom
Glenn, time spent painting the rails will be worth it. Few will know the difference between codes 100 and 83.
What is the best way to paint the track? I can't use spray paint...SWMBO sez "no." BTW, most of the track will be taken up and relaid due to the many pieces of sectional track used during "design" (lay it down until it looks OK) and so I can fill gaps in the roadbed. Glenn in Tulsa
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEJUDo7Uw94 You might click on the above or copy and past the above to your browser and watch it, its the best tool I have ever used. I bought one and use it for all my rail it will get you started. You can literally paint your whole RR's track in one day. Tom
In my own humble opinion, there is no way in this economy I would ever drop $400 for the Code 83 track when all I need is $30 to finish the job in Code 100. The advantages of Code 83 just don't justify the cost, and besides after you paint and ballast the track I doubt if anyone will notice anyway. Just my opinion.
Glenn: Personally I like the look of the ties better on code 83 track. But if I had almost enough Code 100 to finish the job to get trains running, I would go ahead with the code 100. Get the trains runnin and have some fun! I am going to try to attach a picture of what I have been using to "paint" my track and ties. There is an article in RMC either Nov or Dec telling how to do just this. I am looking forward to seeing your layout. Good luck. As you can see in the photo, I get the paint markers at Hobby Lobby. I look at their website every couple of weeks and when I find a 40% off coupon I print it off and buy another set. they have several different sets. Bob Wintle
I would replace with code 83. I wish I had used code 70 on my branch module but that's too low for my old Bachmann 4-4-0. You will not regret it. I use Micro-Engineering brand and treat it just like any other model with weathering. Just my opinion. The hobby has come a long way since brass snap-track.
I'm attempting to use Code 83 downsizing to Code 70 on the sidings. I bought Micro Engineering rail joiners (expensive) and have found them almost impossible to use. Maybe the problem is trying to get them on Atlas Code 83 and not Micro Engineering. Or maybe it is my eyesight and impatience. Have gone to using Walthers which are oversize but look pretty good with the bolt detail. Tonight I'm to the point of trying to put in the Code 70. John|-|
I used code 70 for Newburg and transition to code 83 past the east and west switch. Kalmbach has an excellent publication called Making realistic track or something along those lines with a lot of good hints, especially how to curve the Micro Engineering track, which is very stiff. Check it out if you get a chance. I'll probably use code 70 or lighter on sidings and passing tracks. I know what you mean about ME rail joiners. They are a bear to use and I ended up using a lot of Atlas on the code 83. I can't find my bag of ME code 83, but was going to try them on the Shinohara code 70 track. By all means, paint the ties and rails. It makes a huge difference.
My trick for using the tiny Micro engineering joiners is to insert a #11 blade into each end and give it a slight wiggle to just barely open the very ends. What are these joiners with bolt detail you speak of?
Jim- I bought a package of rail joiners marked Walthers that have bolt detail embossed in them. Large comparded to the Micro Engineering, but I think they look pretty good. John
I view track size as one of those personal perference items. Code 100 represents heavy (I forget the lb rating, maybe 132-150 lb rail) mainline rail and code 83 lighter mainline rail. In my humble opinion there are two key factors to consider about track. 1. Both sizes, along with code 70, work well for HO models. All are structurally sound and conduct electricity well if feeders are added to each section of track (including turnouts). Any track will perform poorly if feeders are not added or it is laid improperly (kinks, dips, etc) 2. When either size track is painted, the actual size of the rail becomes less relevant because it blends more with the ties. All the more reason to get your track painted and ballasted (and then add scenery!). In my view, with painted track, the eye is not drawn to the silver reflection of the track. It is drawn more to the engine and rolling stock on the track. Bottom line: If I were you Glenn, I would get some code 100 under Rule 1.|-|
On my last HO layout I started with code 83, with some code 70 spurs. If you're already this deep into the code 100, personally I see no reason to change. Unless those last few places are sidings, spurs or yard trackage (in which case code 83 would work well). Now, Atlas' code 83 isn't terribly expensive in comparison to, say, Shinohara or Micro Engineering. Plus, it looks nice. Given all that, if you're wanting to save some coin, the Atlas code 100 is still a winner. Paint, ballast & some weathering of ties will work wonders.
I've been working in "O" scale too long. Even code 100 now looks small, or maybe it's just the eyesight sliding. I support Rick's # 1 rule.
WOW! Did that get a lot of responses! I have ordered the Rusty Rail painter and will be painting the Code 100. One thing I plan to do is to wash the ties with a gray wash before I paint the rails. I've done this in a couple of places and it looks pretty good. Glenn in Tulsa
Glenn: I have one of the Rusty Rails painters. One tip, make sure you thin the paint and keep any clogs out of it. The painter works great as long as your paint stays thin. Bob Wintle
Glenn: I agree with all of the posts with maybe one exception or two. First of all, code 100 track is almost bulletproof and very reliable. I remember noted modeler David Barrow once saying he used it because of its reliability. Now the exceptions. Many modelers using code 70 track prefer Micro Engineering and according to posts on other lists is almost impossible to find. One rumor was that some of their equipment was broken, but I think that may have only applied to turnouts. Also, the closer that wheels, traction motors, and coupler glad hands are to the top of the ties, the more derailment and problems with shorts one should expect. Also, the little plastic spikes that hold the rail in place have more chance of breaking when giant human hands lean on them thus throwing the rail out of gauge.
Glenn: The kit I bought came with a paint called Brown Rust. I got it from Joe's Model Trains. He has his label on it so I am not sure what brand it is. It may very well be a scalecoat II paint but I can't verify it. Bob