Who in HO got the Frisco Mandarin Red-Orange most correct?

I must confess: I personally prefer the Athearn Genesis GP15-1's for the intensity and color of the red-orange paint. Of course, I like the slightly more orange shade used by Atlas, but on the models, it appears too flat (and somewhat lifeless) to my eyes, by comparison to what Athearn did with the Genesis units.

My question is: Given the recent models, who has gotten the closest to accurately matching the Mandarin red-orange? I've read other topics here that for years, Athearn didn't quite get the color right--but what about more recent runs? Is it still "off"?

Thank you all for your responses.

John

 

I will attest to what Keith is saying. When I was on the C&O as a conductor, CSX came out with their BIG BLUE Waffle Sides. Not one car was the same shade of blue. Heck, some cars, one side was a different blue than the other, as with the ends. Weather is going to have a real impact on your paint. That being said, and I'm not a diesel guy, but as long as you are in the same color range as the Athearns you quoted and Keith's knowledge of the Chevy Engine Red, then you should be okay. I tell you, weathering with a little of Bragdon Enterprises Soot, and your red will turn so dirty, any difference will immediately fade away. No pun intended.

Here is an example of Polly S Soo Line Red before and after weathering with the soot. Huge difference!

 

I'm well aware of certain colors weathering badly outside. Santa Fe red is notoriously bad for weathering, as well, as is the CSX blue and the Santa Fe yellow.

I've read that most exterior paint finishes, if left unwaxed, are dead (noticeably faded and significantly chalked) at only 7 years or so.

However, I do not weather my models. As a former brass collector, I like weathered steam engines, but weathering usually devalues any model, unless it is professionally done--and even then there's no accounting for taste--and a would-be buyer is more often than not turned off by any weathering at all.

Since I've been known to change my mind and sell/liquidate rolling stock, I just don't weather anything. I would pay for nicely weathered equipment, but that is less than 10% of any I ever get to see in person.

My 2c.

I understand the chevy engine block orange color--however, I'd like to hear the opinions from the people who actually got to see the red-orange scheme in person in real life, too. In many cases, the manufacturers seem to have gotten colors that are just "too red".

 

Keith is one of the few Frisco experts who have the experience on this board that you are looking for. He and few of the others have long been through the "Been there, done that." This particular topic has been beat like a dead horse. There are plenty of topics on the board that cover it. I suggest you search a little and you'll find your answer.

I didn't mean to be offensive in talking about the weathering affect. Since you are new to the board, I have no idea what you know, and don't know, or at what stage or level you are into trains. So I took the example route to help not only you but others who may have questions on the same line.

Hope you find your answer. I'm going back to steam where I belong...

 

I believe Atlas has the best representation of the color that's been on a unit for any length of time. And we all know that Oklahoma sun is not a fried of any paint job. Especially any red color

 

Few things generate more discussion than prototype vs. model color. In the 1970's several friends obtained actual locomotive paint (mandarin red?) from the shops here in Springfield. Only a few models were painted because the result was too red and too dark. The closest thing I remember at the time to compare was the Frisco-paint AHM GP18 which was widely rejected due to being too red. The easiest and closest non-mix paint, used locally for models, was the Testor's Chevy engine orange. That model paint (Testor's) did not look right out doors and the real Frisco paint did not look right indoors. Without hesitation I would say the best orange and white paint jobs (including the best weathering) were done by Charlie Dischinger. I do not know what Charlie used. Too bad he does not build models any more.
John Sanders
Springfield, MO

 

I've seen lots of them. I remember, admiring the Business car, when it was just out of the paint shop. It was really, orange, I was thinking how I would really like to have the pyle markers off of it. I then thought how I would like to keep my job, so I just looked. It's fair to say that there are lot's of variations and most are good. The Chevy Engine Red, looks like it just came out of the paint shop.William Jackson
That's neat John, I was part of that group, in the 70's, with Charlie and Ron William's. I swiped one of the cans out of the store house for the group to use.

 

I did read previous posts, and the previous posts did not seem to reflect anything more recent than the Athearn SD-45. Not having seen those, I don't know how different from the GP15-1's they are.

Thank you.

John

 

Thanks for all the replies thus far. I guess I'm wondering how close or consistent the paint is between the Athearn SD40-2's, SD-45's, and GP15-1's. I've only seen the GP15-1's, so that's why I'm asking--are the others a "match"?

 

It doesn't really matter as the Frisco itself was not consistant. I can remember many different shades of red/orange due to filth and fading. If you do any kind of weathering it will look prototypical. I do feel that some RTR Frisco stuff is a little bit too orange for me. Just my opinion. If you are painting the models yourself the Floquil Socony red WAS a good match BUT I have not seen any in years. It too was inconsistant in shade though.

 

Here's a couple of shots, the RTR Athearn GP40-2 on left and the later GP15-1 to the right.


Shade difference is apparent, but if you browse thur proto shots on this forum, you will find both will match units due to age, and, or lighting conditions. Both look good to me, lol, just because they are SLSF.

 

"Coonskin" and "dricketts" engaged in a good discussion in the "V-scale" sub-forum about how lighting conditions affect the appearance of a model. That certainly can illuminate this thread.

George Nelson

 

Oh George, what a play on words....Lighting conditions...illuminate.....waaaaaaaaaah, waaaaaah, waaaaaaaaaaaah, waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhh. LOL...