Track Electrical Reliability

In another forum, the topic came up and Rick McClellan made the following comment:

Regardless of the power source, AC, DC or DCC, there are some basic things that significantly affect electrical reliability as Rick alluded but I will expand upon:

1) Electrical power must be fed directly to each segment of rail (regardless how small) via a soldered connection.

2) Rail joiners are only good for making mechanical connections between rails and are not reliable electrical connections over time. Oxidation will form between the joiners and rail.

3) Rail and wheel cleanliness is a must for reliable operation. Oxidation of the rail and wheels will occur on all metals except solid gold rail and solid gold wheels. Oxidation of other materials on the rail (dust, plastics and oil) caused by the normal tiny electrical arcing between the rail and wheels is another issue.

Rail cleaning should not be done with any type of abrasive. Abrasives will actually create more exposed surface area on the rails by creating minute grooves in the railhead. The best approach is to use a solution that protects the rail and wheel surfaces while not providing a product that attracts dust or breaks down when exposed to electrical current flow.
The best thing I have found is from Aerocar Lubricants; their Track Cleaner and Conditioner.

 

Keith -
Very good summary, and one that I'll refer back to quite often.

Thus far in our condensed version of Olathe, even a two-inch splice of flex track is getting its own feeder. Years ago I read "Rick's Tips" in the old "All Aboard" magazines, and remember using his track wiring article as my starting point.

Dirty track makes a HUGE difference. On one section of track where I've brushed painted the rails with rust and slopped a little on the rail head, it's interesting to see how my HO-scale Bolshevik cruises along until it hits the painted rail, and it immediately starts to stall.

Best Regards,

 

Me too. Especially the inner lip of the rail head.

 

Jim James caught the additional tip I was going to point out. The tops and insides of the railheads must be clean of paint, dirt, plaster, dry wall dust, etc.

Those sections of rail that must be powered include frogs in turnouts whenever possible, however, the frogs must be power-routed based upon turnout position.

 

Bright Boys abrade the rail surface and leave rubber residue that will cause problems.

Goo Gone is a definite no-no; it leaves a residue that will become non-conductive after exposure to the minute arcing between the wheels and rail.

Transmission fluid is somewhat of a solvent that can damage some plastics and it will attract dust; another non-recommended item.

Oil is not good for the brushes, it will soften them and reduce their life, and the arcing there will convert the oil into carbon that will, over time, create resistance to current flow.

I will refer you back to the folks at the link in my post #1; they make special cleaner and protector for rails that will result in improved performance without attracting dust.