B30-7 Question

Discussion in 'Diesel Locomotives' started by FriscoFriend (Bob Hoover RIP 4/12/2018), Jan 3, 2011.

  1. FriscoFriend (Bob Hoover RIP 4/12/2018)

    FriscoFriend (Bob Hoover RIP 4/12/2018) Passed Away April 12, 2018 Frisco.org Supporter

    I am getting ready to finish detailing my B30-7's and want to know if anyone has a suggestion for the proper casting to use for the nose gyra-light. I have a set of the old Sunrise Enterprises castings but remember that several years ago someone detailed one using another brand. I acquired the Utah Pacific one and it seems to deep. I believe that I need a flush mount one.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Steve40cal

    Steve40cal Member

  3. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    After looking at multiple pictures of the B30-7s, it looks like either the Details West (235-115) or Utah Pacific (755-70) single gyralight should work if they are cut in half, then mounted on the surface of the existing panel on the model after drilling a hole in it to allow the mounting of a 1.2mm 1.5v 15ma Miniatronics bulb.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 3, 2011
  4. FriscoFriend (Bob Hoover RIP 4/12/2018)

    FriscoFriend (Bob Hoover RIP 4/12/2018) Passed Away April 12, 2018 Frisco.org Supporter

    Keith:

    I looked at the nose of my B30-7 under magnification and do have a Utah Pacific casting which is brass and therefore may be somewhat difficult to cut in half as small as it is. A better and easier solution may be to cut out an oval hole in the nose just inside the bolt castings which would be nice to maintain. The Utah Pacific casting slopes very slightly towards the front and has a pin on the back to hold it by while press fitting it in.

    I would think press fitting it fom the rear about a third to a half through the nose and then boring out the hole in the casting eliminating the pin in the process would be the way to go. That would also leave a nice deep barrel for the bulb to fit into.

    Anyone else like Ken or someone have any thoughts?
     
  5. Iantha_Branch

    Iantha_Branch Member

    I am with Keith's idea on using the egsisting box then drilling a hole and putting the gyro light in. But why cut it in half? As Bob Hoover sugested, just leave it in tact and push it through the back way, or the front way. I don't think it matters. But ya brass is harder to work wit than plastic.

    One little side note, I have found something useful (but have not had the oportunity to try it out it) for using those 1.5v 15ma bulbs. Back this summer I bought a few by Keiths recomendation and tried adding a resistor as recomended, but no luck. Well TCS has came out with someting that hooks to ANY decoder (as long as you can acces the blue wire and ground) and provides the correct amount of power for running 1.5v bulbs, and has a compacity of 120ma. Sorry if I had some wrong terminology, but I'm not an electrical engineer.

    http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/C...ecoders/VoltageRegulator/VoltageRegulator.htm


    Ethan

    EDIT: Keith, I looked and you have the wrong part number on the DW gyro light. The part number is 235-115
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 3, 2011
  6. meteor910

    meteor910 2009 Engineer of the Year Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Another possible nose gyralight to use on the Frisco B30-7's, and late U30b's, is Sunrise Enterprises H-109. It is made for a flush mount on the front of the U-boat nose. You could easily drill a hole in it for a microbulb if you want to light it.

    But - they are hard to find.

    Since the Atlas B30-7 model already has the nose light box on it, with a flat front plate, it might indeed be better to use the Details Associates plastic part and cut it to fit flush on the front plate.

    Ken
     
  7. pbender

    pbender Member Frisco.org Supporter

    This is exactly what I did on my N scale b30-7s. I modeled the whole fleet this way :).

    Paul
     

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