Most everyone these days has a digital camera. If you spend a little time looking at the settings you may find an icon that looks like a tulip on a button, menu setting or position on a rotary control dial. This setting allows MACRO photography (the auto focus system will focus on much closer objects than normal). In the Macro setting you can get closer to a model for better detail and still have things in focus. Additionally, lighting is important if you have a good area lit with fluorescent lighting that evenly lights the model, then another setting to select on the camera is the non-flash setting. Most often the icon that represents this setting is the slash/circle over a lightning bolt. This will allow the digital sensor and exposure control in the camera to do their job. Otherwise, the flash will wash out a lot of the subtle detail that available lighting will reveal.
Nice post - Keith. I have, I think, the cheapest "Olympus" that was made a few years ago. It is a FE-170 model. My point - I never use the flash when taking model pictures. Even those made in dim lighting are better than trying to use the flash on closeup subjects. I always make several shots of the same angle and then discard the ones that may be skewed, blurry, or that I just do not like.
Great tips. I also use a tripod, no flash and leave the shutter open for several seconds. I also like to get low angle shots for more realistic views. I'm no better at photography than modeling but it's fun just the same. Also looking at a photo of your model or scenery helps to pinpoint errors or goof-ups.
You guys might want to download the software Helicon Focus. It is free for 30 days. Basically you take several photographs of the same subject changing the focus just slightly each time. Then you load the photos into the software and it combines them into one photo with great depth of field. I played with it yesterday. I have a lot to learn. I think it will be handy. Bob Wintle
One last post on this. Bob's comment about depth of field reminded me. If your camera has the capability of aperture adjustment (the size of the hole in the iris of the lens), then select the smallest aperture (highest f number) when taking pictures. This will yield the greatest depth of field (range of things in focus from near to far). If you have questions about your particular camera (how to) just PM me and I will do what I can to help.
I guess that I am really old school here. I still use tech II type transformers and for pictures I still use a 35mm film I just cannot get the hang of those new fangled digital camera things Have a great day Darren
I have had some success with placing tissue of varying layers over the strobe to diffuse the light. I have also used white card stock folded over the strobe to "bounce" the light. Pixels and and electrons are cheap, so I take lots of shots in order to obtain one that works.
also on some digital cameras there is a super micro setting that will get you up to 1cm or .4 in. pretty close i have 1000's of train photos and have used several different settings, it all depends on the setting of the subject, there is a program on your computer if you are using window xp or newer that lets you play with your pics, also if you are railfanning photos you might want to keep a copy of the "photographers rights" theres a nice story in the sept issue of "Trains" about the rights be careful if your taking photos around a amtrak station as the will try to bully you, but most of all enjoy your photos
