Got a few more pictures to share. I compared my test subjects with an Athearn Genesis GP40-2 and an Atlas GP38. The Athearn paint tends to be a bit darker with bit more red. The Atlas paint is almost dead on with the real thing fresh out of the booth. The blend of the two points was a step in the right direction, but I think I need to blend in some orange and try again
Tamiya Masking tapes and Tamiya Masking Tape for Curves produce a very fine line, also the 3M #218 Fine Line Tape products work very well. Both sets of products are specifically produced to provide a very sharp, clean line.
Last week I received a white primer that is a game changer for painting Frisco O/W engines. It is the Allclad II laquer-based white primer. It sprays with much less problems than Stynylrez so far, and gives great coverage. You nearly wouldn't have to do white paint at all, though I probably would still want to. But basically, it is a real white primer instead of the awful stuff Stynylrez is trying to pass off. Stynylrez gray and black CAN be OK, but the super short shelf life and sensitivity of it to freezing have put me right off of it. And the white stuff is just garbage. I'll eventually be getting the Allclad in black and gray now that I've seen how good the white is. I got some of the Badger Frisco Orange, will do some tests to see what I think of it. I tried Tru-Color WFE yellow as an option for the yellow freight cars, since there were some Frisco reefers in a WFE scheme. Boy, that was a disappointment. More like lemon yellow than WFE yellow. I have been happy with Tru-Colors Frisco Brown for Freight cars, however. Still on the search for a proper yellow for the freight cars, and might like to find something for the blue freight cars as well if I can ever confirm they had 40 footers.
Oh, also found this site with badger paint at $3 a bottle! Haven't ordered from there yet but might try it soon. https://usaairbrushsupply.com/t/modelflex
Hi Daniel! Interested in what you'd found with the Alclad 11 White Primer, I Googled it and came up with this: https://www.amazon.com/Alclad-II-White-Primer-Microfiller/dp/B004CVWGPU Then hitting the Alclad website, I could only find these references: Alclad ALC-302 GREY PRIMER Alclad ALC-306 WHITE PRIMER & MICROFILLER Alclad ALC-309 BLACK PRIMER & MICROFILLER So, does the Alclad white primer you're using have microfiller in it? If so, it's my understanding that microfiller is used in paints to help the paint fill slight cracks, grain, etc. I would think we don't want that on our high-detailed die cast shells?
That is the stuff. I understand what you mean, but it does not seem to obscure detail, even with multiple coats. And I'm painting N scale. If it won't obscure an N scale rivet, I'm sure HO will be just fine. Whatever micro filler is in there is ground so finely that this stuff doesn't even need thinning to airbrush, which happens never. All the stuff I've ever used that said "ready to airbrush right out of the bottle", is never ready to airbrush right out of the bottle. But this stuff really is. Of course, I'm not going to twist anyone's arm to use it. It worked well for me and I'm happy about that so I wanted to share.
Well, if it works in N scale, then HO shouldn't be an issue. Thanks for the additional input. Sucks that Floquil is no more. (Sigh) However, it is what is, so I'll eventually have to switch to another line of paints.
For what it’s worth from my painting I love Alcad II and have used it almost 30 years. The down sides are it’s not a full color line. It’s primer, clears, metal effects etc… Plus in this day and age toxicity is important. This is lacquer so it has fumes painting and cleaning up. I think their primer is the best on the market. Same with the clear coats. They have the best flat or matte on the market to me. But another downside is airbrush only. If you airbrush no biggie. If not there is not much choice. If you do airbrush. I like how thin and smooth coats can be. Also how quick it dries. Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
I finally had enough time time get the air brush out for a little bit this afternoon. I experimented with blending in Badger Modelflex BNSF Orange into the bottle that was a 50/50 mix of Modelflex Frisco Orange and SP Daylight Red. My hypothesis was that mixing in an equal amount of BNSF Orange with the other mixture would yield a color close to that of the original Chevy Red-Orange. I was correct in that assumption. To clarify, the formula is 1 part Frisco Orange 1 part SP Daylight Red 2 parts BNSF Orange I'll have to do some more experimenting in the future to see if I could make the same color using only 1 of the 2 red paints. In the mean time, I need to go order some better tape. In the picture below, I have the F7B shell I've been working with between an Atlas GP38AC, an Athearn Genesis GP38-2, and behind it is the remains of a shell wearing automotive paint of an actual formulation of Chevy Red-Orange.
I need somebody to come here and spend some time showing me how to uses water based paints. I just dont get it. I have spent a small fortune on the paints but all I get is plugged up tips on my air brush and lousy finishes
I’m thinking that sounds like the perfect family vacation Tom!!! What airbrush do you have Tom? I have/had a bunch and some are more acrylic friendly than others. For acrylics I have good luck with a Iawata Neo. Also an old Badger Cresendo will spray anything easily. But, even though there is no mechanical explanation I have a Paasche Talon that is absolutely unusable for acrylics. Lmk when the guest suite is cleared out in the train barn!!
I have a Iawata Neo gravity feed brush. Its been working good with both the Badger and Vallejo paints I've been working with. It's pretty easy to take apart and clean as well. https://www.amazon.com/NEO-Gravity-Feed-Action-Airbrush/dp/B004INERK4 The other half of the battle is thinning the paint properly, which can be done with water. I'm getting better at it. I do have a couple bottles that I over diluted and don't want to apply properly. I'm not sure how to describe what the proper consistency looks like. Maybe kind of like vegetable oil? What's nice about the acrylic is I can use a hair dryer on the shell in between coats to speed up the process and reduce the number of times I have to clean out the brush. Also, I really like this kit that Amazon has back in stock. 30 ML translates to about 1 fl oz. I like these plastic bottles because I can remove the dropper tip and flush it out so it doesn't dry up, or if it does dry out I can replace the tip and not lose an entire jar of paint. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KFS17S0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 I guess since this post turned into talking about equipment, its also important to have q-tips and paper towels handy for cleanup. I also like to use plastic droppers to shoot clean water in to the paint cup and tip when its time to clean the brush out.
Looking back through this thread I failed to mention a source for actually purchasing paint. I have had the best luck through the past year with Midwest MRR in Independence MO. They have a large variety of both Modelflex and Vallejo on the shelf that you can buy online or in store. https://midwestmodelrr.com/assembly/paint/
Vallejo model air 71.086 light red is almost a perfect match for Athearn Frisco Mandarin orange and white paint.
