How do you model buildings?

Discussion in 'Structures' started by trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017), Nov 14, 2009.

  1. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Make a template for the arches and pencil the arched line. Get close with a blade and maybe file or sand the final shape. You're going to get tired of doing that for sure but should give fine results. Do you have arched window castings for it? That would provide the template you need for a good fit. Then buy a package of #11 blades ASAP. I'm really enjoying this thread. Practice on scrap first.
     
  2. tmfrisco

    tmfrisco Member Frisco.org Supporter

    I started using Micromark's Same Stuff plastic welder when I couldn't find Tenax anymore. I have been very happy with it, and I think it works like Tenax did. Of course, it has to be ordered from Micromark, but that is simple to do.

    Terry
     
  3. trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017)

    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017) Passed away September 22, 2017

    I don't really have any "modeling tools" yet. I just havent' had a need to break down and buy any yet. With that being said, I don't see why I can't just place a coin at the top corners of each opening and cut around it for the arches. I would have done that last night but fatigue set in. Maybe tonight? I'm going to get those blades after work if I can find them on my way home. By the way, everything I've cut so far has been "free handed" with the aid of the grout lines in the sheets. When you grow up in a remote area like Sulligent with the nearest Wal-mart 22 miles away (Amory, MS), and where they roll up the steets at 5pm, you learn to do a lot of things with what you have, even when it's not necessarily what you need. - Brandon
     
  4. Sirfoldalot

    Sirfoldalot Frisco.org Supporter Frisco.org Supporter

    Brandon - That's very good for being your first time. Just please be careful with the knife .. cuts with an exacto or razor blade are no fun.
    Be sure and use a larger coin, can, or whatever for the arch. I am probably wasting my breath here, but they are not full circles.

    I'm impressed!
     
  5. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Be sure those arches fit your window castings. I like Grant Line and Tichey products personally. As a rule of thumb you should have your windows on hand so you can cut your openings to fit. Unless you scratchbuild them. Yikes!
     
  6. Oldguy

    Oldguy Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Have you figured out out how you are going to model the curved brick arches above all those windows yet?
     
  7. renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013)

    renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013) Passed away March 8, 2013

    Yes, Tenax-7R is gone, but Micro Mark Same stuff is the same thing. Also Ambroid ProWeld is also the same. The only difference is the strength seems a little less than Tenax-7R.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 23, 2013
  8. trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017)

    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017) Passed away September 22, 2017

    I plan on cutting around a quarter over the windows. I will probably use a small tomato paste can or something similar over the doors. As for the Xacto knife warning... been there... done that... stabbed my opposing thumb a few months ago... lesson learned. I did manage to pick up a 5 pack of #11 blades. Thanks to everyone for the encouragement and advice. - Brandon
     
  9. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Brandon, Oldguy is asking about the curved row of vertical bricks that are at the top of each window. The prototype window openings had sort of a roman arch of bricks across the top. You could make a template and maybe cut them out from thin styrene, scribe brick lines with a blade, lightly sand the edges and paint to match or blend with the brick siding. Just an idea. I've never scratchbuilt a brick structure.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 23, 2013
  10. trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017)

    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017) Passed away September 22, 2017

    My mistake. Now I understand. The answer is, "It hadn't crossed my mind." I have no idea but your (Jim's) idea is good. That's the one I'll probably go with. I really hadn't planned on giving that much attention to detail but it could be done. Thanks for pointing that out Oldguy and explaining Jim. I could scribe enough individual 1/3-bricks and sand them thin from the back... just kidding!!! - Brandon
    window arches.JPG
     
  11. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Here's an example of an arched masonry window casting (this one is by Grandt Line) and would dictate the exact shape of the opening to be cut out of the siding. Brick and stone structures use what's called masonry windows as opposed to frame windows used on wooden structures. Or you could scratchbuild each frame from styrene strip and you have a lot of windows.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Brandon, when it come time to glue fine lines I highly recommend getting a Flex-I-File #711 Touch-N-Flow Applicator http://www.flex-i-file.com/adhesives.php to control the flow of any of the liquid adhesives. It will radically improve anyone's ability to glue two things together without the liquid adhesive going everywhere. If you hold the pipette nearly level, the glue will flow from the applicator into the joint by capillary action.

    I just won't attempt gluing styrene without one anymore.
     
  13. trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017)

    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017) Passed away September 22, 2017

    I sincerely appreciate all of the advice. There are a lot of good tips and "how to's" being documented on this thread. Thanks to all of you who have specifically offered me tips and pointers on my first scratch build attempt. Keep it coming.
    As for my progress on the brick structure, I haven't uploaded the pics yet from last night's "2nd floor, arch-cutting marathon" but for now, I can tell you that I used a nickle to cut out the arches for the 2nd story windows. I plan on having a ground floor arch cutting marathon tonight. Once all of the arches are cut out, I will upload a picture.
    To get closer to scale, the building will be larger than I originally planned. I will need 1 more sheet of brick to complete it.
    When the time comes to install the corrugated roof over a span of roughly 14-15 inches, how do you all suggest I brace it. Don't tell me I have to scratch build HO scale trusses.:eek: Just kidding about the trusses but I seriously need ideas for bracing the roof. - Brandon
     
  14. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    I would cut triangular pieces of styrene to fit the pitch of the roofline and attach them at intervals along the underside of the peak.
     
  15. trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017)

    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017) Passed away September 22, 2017

    I will be near a Hobby Lobby at some point this weekend. Do they carry styrene? I haven't been in a while and can't remember.
     
  16. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Probably not. Walthers online is my main source for stuff. Otherwise I make an hour journey to a good hobby shop. I just received a set of hobby drill bits and a sheet of scribed car siding from Walthers.
    Keith's advice on roof supports is the best way for long roof sections.
     
  17. renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013)

    renapper (Richard Napper RIP 3/8/2013) Passed away March 8, 2013

    US Plastics at www.usplastic.com carries styrene in 4 x 10 foot sheets in all thicknesses. One sheet is close to a life time supply and much cheaper than the little 6 x 12" sheets from Walthers. You will still have to use Walthers for scribed sheets however.
     
  18. trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017)

    trainchaser007 (Brandon Adams RIP 9/22/2017) Passed away September 22, 2017

    Here's a photo of the front wall of my Sulligent Cotton Oil Co. building as of 10:30pm 1/24/13. I now have a total of 8.5 hours of work put into this, my first ever "scratch build." (I haven't ever kit bashed yet either.) Needless to say, I'm pleased with the outcome considering my beginning skill level and current lack of any real hobby tools.
    I plan on making the rear wall tomorrow night (without doors or windows...the general public never see the backside of the prototype anyway and the back side of the model won't be visible on my layout...and most importantly...it just ain't worth the trouble to me!). After I ordered 4 brick sheets, I decided to go ahead and include the single story, east end addition. As a result, I have to purchase more brick wall material. Here's the wall for now...
    Photo160.jpg
     
  19. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Looks first rate to me. Ought to turn out real nice.
     
  20. Oldguy

    Oldguy Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Looks like you nailed it! Those parapets could get interesting.
     

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