It will be a while before I start a new layout, but I thought I might ask this question now. Which is a better Ho scale road bed, cork or the WS stuff? I have made a few questions about it to make it easier to determine which is better. 1.Which is cheaper? 2.Which is quieter? 3.Which is better quality? 4.Which is more durable? 5.Which is easier to ballast? (I'm not sure how important this question is) 6.Which can handle more weight? (I think this goes with durability, but I'll separate it any way) 7.Which will last longer? (agin I decided to separate this from durability)
Howdy, You'll find many different answers for your questions. Here is my personal experience using both the WS approach (one layout), cork (one layout), and homasote (two layouts): 1.Which is cheaper? Cork 2.Which is quieter? All about the same 3.Which is better quality? homasote 4.Which is more durable? all three 5.Which is easier to ballast? (I'm not sure how important this question is) all three same 6.Which can handle more weight? (I think this goes with durability, but I'll separate it any way) homasote and cork 7.Which will last longer? (agin I decided to separate this from durability) WS may have a long life, but I only had the layout for three years. Our club layout uses both cork and homasote, gets twice a week traffic, and has lasted well over the last 12 years. Perhaps a good approach before investing in any one technique is to buy a small bit of each and try a one or two foot stretch. Decide what works best for you. Best regards, mike
Ok, I guess I'll show some ignorance here........what is "WS" ? That being said, I'd say that cork withstands changes in temperature better than homasote. If the homasote isn't 100% sealed (by paint or scenery/glue) time and temp changes will result in warpage moreso than cork.
WS is Woodland Scenics. It is a polyfoam substance. My experience with cork is that it dries out and crumbles quite easily. That may not be a problem for long term layouts but for some one like me who likes to change the layout it becomes a problem. I personally use homasote. I am also using WS foam in places on my layout. Bob Wintle MMR Parsons, Ks.
Go to www.homasote.com to learn all about it and where you can buy it locally. Basically it is a fiberboard made from recycled material. It is gray in color and comes in 4x8 sheets. I have seen it in 1/2 and 3/4 inch sizes. If you remember coming to see my layout it is what I used to put my track on. Bob
Another type of "WS" roadbed might be camper weatherstrip (the foam 1 1/4" wide self-adhesive tape). This is applied to painted substrate and then a liquid adhesive is applied to the top of the weatherstrip to hold the track. Some of the background on this can be found at: http://www.frisco.org/vb/showthread.php?t=3000&highlight=adhesive
Regarding the sound quality of the various types of subroadbed, I think the foam/topper tape is the quietest. However, once the track is ballasted, trains running over it will be louder because the subroadbed cushioning is cancelled out by the glued ballast. The running sound is transferred to the subroadbed (plywood hopefully) and becomes very noticable. BUT I prefer that sound so that you know when a train is coming at you because it picks up the engines' and all the cars' sound and magifies it a little. The clickity-clack sound of wheels on joints is more noticable and reminds me of being trackside. Hear IT on the Frisco! Rick
Howdy, Years ago, I recall reading that diluted matt medium was good for gluing ballast, because it remained flexible and didn't transmit sound like dried white glue. I tried it and subsequently used it on the last three layouts. I still prefer it and had good luck with it on Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. Perhaps using matt medium will help reduce the sound with any of the road bed materials discussed here. Best, mike
Mike, Ditto with regard to the diluted matte medium. I have noted some shrinkage and swelling with homasote due to humidity. -keb-
how come no one has mentioned using foamboard insulation the pink or blue type? i have mine on top of plywood and the track glued down with caulking with not one problem i painted the foam earth tone interior paint very little noise
Actually, that's what I use for my base. Plywood, topped with the pink 3/4 inch styrofoam. Then, I put cork on top of the styrofoam.
I use S foam roadbed on top of foamboard, and all that on top of a hollow-core door. The roadbed is held down with a combination of white glue and small nails. No noise issues, and since it's N scale, weight is not an issue.
I agree with the comments on Matte Medium. I don't think it dries as hard as diluted white glue enabling it to absorb some of the sound/vibration of the locomotives. I use diluted white glue for two primary reasons. First, ballasted track can be recovered by spraying it with water. The diluted white glue will soften and allow the track to be moved. My experience with Matte Medium glued ballast is that moving track means detroying the old track and buying new track. The second reason is the cost. I can get a gallon of white glue for $10-12 a gallon (Home Depot) while Matte Medium is about $70 per gallon (some on-line sellers will discount). I would be interested in hearing from others that have used matte medium and how moving track went for them. Maybe you guys plan better than I do. Regarding the foam on top of plywood. Hmmmm that is kind of like putting Homasote on plywood. I have never used these techniques and would appreciate input on the benefits. My yard track is placed directly on top of the plywood and mainline track is on MD Camper Tape all glued down with DAP Acrylic Adhesive. Some friends indicate that Homasote holds track nails well. That may not be applicable these days with many using acrylic glue. My only experience with a foam subroadbed was a friend would did not place it over plywood creating the loudest layout I have ever heard. The foam was an amazing sound board. That layout didn't last very long before it was completely rebuilt. I would be interested to learn of the benefits of foam over plywood that would support the additional cost and effort. My final thought is that I like to hear trains coming down the track but (like Goldilocks) not too loud and not too quiet. That clickity clack sound is part of railroading. Ship IT on the Frisco! Rick
There is an article done by Chuck Hitchcock in the Model Railroader database that show the technique using topper tape that Rick describes. I'm not sure if one has to be a subscriber to access this, but here is the link. http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=a&id=293 If you want to see it and can't access it, I can click on a link and email it to you. Just send me a private message with your email address and I will gladly send it to you. Bob Hoover FriscoFriend
O, I also forgot to ask, is caulk the best way to glue down the cork to the foam? and the track to the cork?
i have used the foam on plywood with the track glued right to the foam with very little noise and i still havent put the scenery or ballest down yet, as far as the foam goes if you use the 2" foam you can cut ditches on the sides of the track and cut out small steams im very happy with it
