Airbrush

Discussion in 'Modeling Tips' started by William Jackson, Dec 23, 2018.

  1. Ozarktraveler

    Ozarktraveler Member

    Not sure if this the best thread for it, but I can't seem to get my trusty old Badger 200 purchased in the 90's I believe, to spray Trucolor paint (Pullman Green).

    I did have to put a new PTFE needle bearing in it, the old disintegrated after all these years.

    Spare parts were ordered and installed. After a fresh batch of Trucolor it still wouldn't spray right.

    I cleaned the airbrush and it will spray thinner just fine.

    I realize that Trucolor doesn't need thinning and is supposed to be spray ready. I have already ordered some Badger watercolor Pullman Green to finish the Heavyweight RPO as I believe it will flow ok.

    Just curious as to why I can't get the Trucolor paint to play nice. It sort of coagulates for some reason.

    I miss Floquil.
     
  2. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

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  3. Ozarktraveler

    Ozarktraveler Member

    20200215_174916.jpg 20200215_174927.jpg 20200215_174959.jpg 20200215_175050.jpg 20200215_173500.jpg 20200215_173534.jpg 20190605_180951.jpg 20200215_174600.jpg

    Airbrush - Badger 200
    Compressor - I'm not sure, it came as a set.

    The airbrush has painted probably 50 - 100 model cars over the years. One thing I always liked about it was it's ability to lay down thin coats, protecting the details. (Some paints lay so thick that on a 1:1 scale it would be 1"-2" thick.)

    I've attached some examples. The Folgers car was molded in color but I shot it with clear coat.
     
  4. Craig, my initial guess is it is drying on or in the tip. Try-color dries extremely fast. I spray it at 25-30 psi moving lots of paint that way to keep it wet. Spraying very thin coats I would bet it is drying as you spray. It might also end up with some orange peel using very thin coats too.
    I like it but it is a unique paint. The fast dry time can be a plus and a minus. Hope this helps?
     
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  5. meteor910

    meteor910 2009 Engineer of the Year Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    I had both the Paasche single action and double action and loved them both. Frankly, I was much better with the single action. Easy to control, easy to clean.
    Both went bye-bye in our estate sale in 2016. I have since been airbrushless! Highly recommend Paasche. Get the full set of three sized needles/nozzles for maximum flexibility with the single action.
    K
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2020
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  6. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member Staff Member

    I am a Paasche guy too, two double actions with different needles and an air ereaser. But Craig dont feel alone my friend, I cant seem to get any water based paint to work for me, I also miss Floquil. Thankfully Scalecoat was picked up by Minuteman Hobbies. I was advised to turn the pressure down for water based paints, but I still struggle with them, I do, however use them to weather using many many coats of very thin layers. When you figure it out let me know will ya :)
     
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  7. William Jackson

    William Jackson Bill Jackson

    For all I know, I too think you will need to thin it, good advice on the 25 to 30 psi. I am a Newberry's on the subject, but have painted some nice looking buildings
     
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  8. geep07

    geep07 Member

    Steve, I agree with your comments on Tru Color paint. My first encounter with the paint was I thought my airbrush was malfunctioning cause the paint was barely coming out and covering. After taken down the brush and re cleaning it was performing the same way. I made contact with the manufacture of the the paint company and they advised on what I was doing was correct on every aspect. You just need to know how the paint works and flows through your airbrush. The results in my opinion are good.
    As with anything we modelers do in this hobby, we are accustomed with certain products and and expect the same results with other different products.
     
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  9. Ozarktraveler

    Ozarktraveler Member

    Thanks gentlemen.
     
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  10. Ozarktraveler

    Ozarktraveler Member

    Update:

    Tried shooting the water based paint after cleaning the gun. Not drawing paint now, paint doesn't make it into the gun. Probably some other passage(s) blocked not allowing it to siphon.

    Ordered the gun Mr. Keith linked. It was inexpensive enough to take a chance with. I'll see about further cleaning/refurbishing the old gun too.

    I haven't ruled out upgrading down the road either.
     
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  11. gstout

    gstout Member Frisco.org Supporter

    I have never had any luck at all shooting water-based paint with an airbrush (and I'm good enough with an airbrush to have done it professionally). Once the last of my Floquil is used up (or dried out), I'm done. Fortunately I'm at a point now where there is nothing left to paint except structures, and I can do that with rattle cans.

    GS.
     
  12. Kinda funny, I guess I am lucky I never used Floquil at all. My dad did but he got me started with acrylics when I was probably 6 or 7 years old because it was more likely I would clean my brush with water instead of thinner. Polly S mostly. I am opposite of most model railroad guys, that I rarely use enamels. Probably 90% acrylic now. Then the Tru-color or Al-CladII which is lacquer. Good luck craig, keep us posted as you go.
     
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  13. meteor910

    meteor910 2009 Engineer of the Year Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Steve - I have used lots of Testor's and Polly-S acrylics, but never had much success spraying them - except. strangely, Polly-S flat black. What is your technique for spraying them in general?
    K
     
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  14. I spray at 25-30 PSI and keep the airbrush as close as I can to the model without creating runs. The higher pressure keeps lots of fresh wet paint on the tip, the close range keeps it from trying to dry in the air before it lands and creating orange peel.
     

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