New Direction for Zalma Branch (photos)

[Jim James]

I gotta keep things real and I don't have the time or desire to build a large layout to opereate because I don't care much for operations. So I decided against several modules to represent the Zalma branch and I've just started a 4x8 layout. It will contain all the scenic areas that I wanted to model so this is really just several dioramas put in proper order around the layout with a backdrop down the middle. This may seem lame to some but I just like to watch the trains roll by. I've layed the cork roadbed with liquid nails and will soon lay the code 88 Atlas track and two #4 turnouts. there will be a siding at Greenbrier and Zalma just like the prototype so there will some opportunity to operate such as it is. I will enjoy super detailing scenes and rolling stock. Plus I could carry this outside for fun photography! Anywhoos, I'm keeping it small and focused. Hey! You can see the old Greenbrier module in the background.

[FriscoFriend]

Classic interpretion of Rule #1 in my humble opinion!

[Jim James]

What's rule #1? "Lazy folks build 4x8s"

[FriscoFriend]

What's rule #1? "Lazy folks build 4x8s"

Rule #1 is a principle that I think can be attributed to fellow Frisco modeler Rick McClellan and quite simply put it states:

"It's your railroad so you you can do what you want!

My interpretation is that it's a principle that can be invoked when someone questions the prototypical accuracy of something that one does. Hopefully Rick will chime in here. It has nothing to do with one being lazy.

[Jim James]

I was kidding about the lazy part. Well, maybe.

[TAG1014]

So what IS "Rule #1?" Actually? I'm not too "hip" on that savvy modeler "inside stuff."

Tom

[meteor910]

Tom -

My interpretation of Rule 1 ...... "It's your model railroad, so you can do whatever the **** you want!"

Ken

[klrwhizkid]

Rule #1 helps overcome the inability to build/model something due to worries that some rivet-counting, nit-picker will find an inaccuracy in a model locomotive, railcar, structure, or location detail.

Ideally, a model is a scaled-down replica of something in a specific place and time. Unless one is very fastidious in attention to detail and has researched with documentation to prove authenticity, someone, somewhere will identify some fault in one's model.

As Ken so aptly points out, the owner really only has to satisfy himself, thus Rule #1; It's my railroad and I either like something that is not completely prototypically correct or I am not that concerned about absolute accuracy.


Jim, as I have seen your work first hand, I know that your constructions will be as true as practically possible given the lack of detailed information (pictures, descriptions) on the area that intrigues you. I look forward to helping you photograph your completed work in a manner that will to it justice.

[gjslsffan]

We cannot have a rule that has not been amended at least once. So I propose that the first rule change be rule #1.1, and this rule (1.1) should refer all subsequent rules to rule #1.
Tom Holley

[Jim James]

I think I like rule #1. Keith, I'll take you up on that offer someday. Tonight I handpainted 8 pieces of flextrack and two #4 turnouts. Progress.

[TAG1014]

Like Barney Fife said (About the Mayberry jail), "Here at the 'rock' we have three rules,: Rule No.1, Obay all rules!" etc...

Tom

[yardmaster]

Now THIS thread and the responses gave me a good, hearty chortle for the morning! None better than Tom's invocation of Deputy Fife.

Jim, what fun is a layout if YOU are not happy with it? If your passion is superdetailing scenes and rolling stock (both of which you excel at, in my opinion), then you are working on a splendid setting to show your work!

I'm just happy that Zalma and Greenbrier are still going to be modeled.

While I'm not the competitive sort, I will challenge anyone to be lazier than I when it comes to layout construction.

[Rick McClellan]

Tom -

My interpretation of Rule 1 ...... "It's your model railroad, so you can do whatever the **** you want!"

Ken

Ken, your interpretation is CORRECT.
You can do whatever the ***** you want or
You can do whatever the ****** you want or
You can do whatever the ******* you want . . . .

The pattern has been established.

My preference is to do things the best I can but not to sweat the small stuff. Hyper critical folks will find their invites spaced out over looonnnng periods of time. I even sneak in a few non-proto things like AcheGas, a KC based chain of propane dealers.

[Sirfoldalot]

I even sneak in a few non-proto things like AcheGas, a KC based chain of propane dealers.

Rick, Don't forget to add the FUBAR Corporation as well.

[Jim James]

Painting Atlas code 88 flex track. First I spraypainted it with light earth and then used these neat little micro brushes to paint the rail a rust color.Theses brushes were only $1.90 for a package of 10 or so. Very worth it. As I ran the brush along the rail it also got the spike heads for me. Next I will add weathering and make some of the ties a little crooked to give it more of an aging branchline appearance. I don't want to bore folks with these progress photos but some new modelers may find them useful or motivational.

[FriscoFriend]

I don't want to bore folks with these progress photos but some new modelers may find them useful or motivational.

(A) NOT BORING
(B) VERY USEFUL AND MOTIVATIONAL
(C) I'M NOT A NEW MODELER

P.S. KEEP IT COMING

[Jim James]

You can see how the track is shaping up. I still need to weather the ties but not yet. I will secure the track to the painted cork roadbed with CA. I just apply a tiny drop with a toothpick to the inside of a tie and let it creep under. I just do this in a few strategic spots as needed. This has worked well for me in the past. I always start track laying at a turnout and I never glue the turnout to the roadbed allowing it to "float" so as not to mess up the moving parts. As you can see I still need to paint the turnout. The fun begins.

[Rick McClellan]

You can see how the track is shaping up. I still need to weather the ties but not yet. I will secure the track to the painted cork roadbed with CA. I just apply a tiny drop with a toothpick to the inside of a tie and let it creep under. I just do this in a few strategic spots as needed. This has worked well for me in the past. I always start track laying at a turnout and I never glue the turnout to the roadbed allowing it to "float" so as not to mess up the moving parts. As you can see I still need to paint the turnout. The fun begins.Attachment 16657

I like the structures. Great work. Wood or styrene?

[Jim James]

Thanks. They are made of wood from Northeastern Scale Lumber. I don't like using styrene very often.

[Jim James]

I meant code 83 flex track, not code 88. I don't know where that came from.

[WindsorSpring]

Jim James warned: "I don't want to bore folks with these progress photos..."

Au contraire, confrere! I agree with Friscofriend's 3 observations (see post 13 below) and will take it one step further. Vacation took me away five days leaving 2 pages of unread Frisco.org posts. The Jim James by-line and "...(photo)," made me jump right to yours! It looks great and like a lot of fun.

George

[FriscoFriend]

I meant code 83 flex track, not code 88. I don't know where that came from.

Jim:

On this forum you are allowed one mistake of this magnitude. I'm sure that we had people scouring the Internet and calling their favorite hobby shop looking for code 88 track. Maybe even a couple going to their layout and sighting down the track looking for rail height irregularities especially where they were having frequent derailments thinking they had got slipped a ringer (piece of code 88 track) when they purchased their last batch of code 83.

Consider yourself warned!

[meteor910]

I've Bright-Boy'ed the code 100 flex track on my little layout so often since it was built in 1973 that I'm sure I now have code 99 everywhere.

LOL

Ken

[Jim James]

Ok. You guys are killin' me. No more code 88. I'm in the process of laying track and I'll take a pic of the golden spike ceremony but it might be a day or three. I can't find my code 88 to code 83 transition rail joiners.

[yardmaster]

I can't find my code 88 to code 83 transition rail joiners.

If you can't find them, Jim, try searching for some Code 99 to Code 88 transition rail joiners. Ken Wulfert sounds like he might have extras.