White River Line

Discussion in 'Freelance' started by dboone74, Mar 2, 2021.

  1. dboone74

    dboone74 Member

    Good call. Any recommendations? Nuts?
     
  2. geep07

    geep07 Member

    If you use nuts and plan on detailing the interior, then nuts are not recommended, unless you use a shallow nuts and hide it under a seat bunk or a compartment.
    A flat weight that comes with an Athearn caboose?
    If I recall, AMB does not have any recommendations in their instructions, do they?
     
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  3. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    I used some left over bullet lead casting sprues and hammered them flat. That extra weight really helps with electrical pick up. A Tsunami sound car module is also recommended fun.
    Don’t forget that cool cable hanging on the left side of that caboose.
     
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  4. dboone74

    dboone74 Member

    No they don't have any recommendations. I might be able to scavenge a flat weight from an old, cheap car I'm not going to use. That's a good idea.

    I don't shoot, so I don't have any casting sprues, but I bet I could dig up some fishing weights and do the same thing.

    I'm planning on 2 interior lights and getting some markers from Tomar. I found some NCE light only decoders for like $8 with an LED directly on the board and space for 3 more LEDs so I think I'm going to do with that. I'll probably add a capacitor too for a keep-alive. I've got some Tomar pickup shoes I inherited and I'm sure the extra weight will help out with those.

    I'm planning on adding the cable, but I haven't quite figured out what I'm going to use just yet. Probably, a bit of thick, black thread stiffened up with some beeswax, but I'm open to recommendations.
     
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  5. rjthomas909

    rjthomas909 Member Frisco.org Supporter

    Hey @dboone74 , just checking in... have not seen a video in a while.

    Hope you are OK.

    -Bob T.
     
  6. patrick flory

    patrick flory Member

    Put some kind of flat weight under the caboose ceiling inside. No one will ever see it under normal usage, will only see the detail through the windows. The only thing is that you have to make sure the bolsters and trucks are flat-fitted very well and evenly are the car rock around or lean to one side.
     
  7. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    I
    I contacted Drew outside of Frisco.org and got this respsonse:
    "Thanks for checking in. I’m good, I’ve just had a very busy summer and haven’t had time to do modeling. I’ll be back at it in the next few weeks now that the kids are back in school. I appreciate you checking in on me."
     
  8. rjthomas909

    rjthomas909 Member Frisco.org Supporter

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  9. dboone74

    dboone74 Member

    Hi all. I kinda took the summer off from the modeling and the YT channel. Unexpectedly. I knew I was going to have to slow down for the summer, but I took a bigger break than I planned.

    Everything is good, I just got really busy with summer activities and needed a break from the channel. I've spent 15+ hours a week on the channel for the last few years and between that, my day job, volunteering with the Boy Scouts, and most importantly being a husband and a father I got a little burnt out. The summer was great and I'm back at it now, but I may go at a little slower pace with the videos than I have been the last few years.

    That said, I'm working the AMB caboose some more and could use some advice. I'm working on the undercarriage, and would like to add some more detail. I'm struggling to find pix or diagrams of the braking system. I'm also looking for more information about that cable the runs along the bottom of the caboose. I've been digging through the forums here, but I guess I'm not that skilled at finding what I'm looking for. Any help would be appreciated.
     
  10. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    IMG_0894.jpeg Not sure about the prototype brake layout but that cable is so cool looking.
     
  11. dboone74

    dboone74 Member

    That's nice looking. I wonder what material they used for the cable.
     
  12. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member Staff Member

    Well, the search function is not working again or could show you some caboose brake rigging photos on a couple of my cabooses. It is basically twice what you would see under a boxcar, as there is a hand brake on both ends, there has to be rigging to apply and release the hand brake. There was a cable hung on hooks on one side and typically a very heavy chain draped over the hooks on the other side. The cable had a loop on one end and hook on the other, the chain some times had a heavy metal loop on one end and a hook on the other. I used thread to make the cable, with a Precision scale brass hook and just made a loop gluing the tread back to itself with glue. The chain is easy enough using large brass chain with a PSC hook at each end. Neither were used in braking of the caboose.
    Back in those days you could pull the whole draw works out of a wooden car or even pull the whole car in two. Maybe get a knuckle, so these chains and cables were very necessary tools to pull B/O cars to a house track or siding, and out of the way.

    below shows the cable side
    002 (3).JPG

    chain side below
    005.jpg

    below shows typical brake rigging for a caboose. Your model might be a earlier, the rigging would be very similar but the with a K, valve or AB, or other.
    22138-08cb2227aeb66d12766f2760ad136394.jpg

    Dont know if this will help you out or not, but here it is if can use it.
     
  13. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    Tom, try logging out of Frisco.org, clearing the related cookies in your browser, close the browser and open Frisco.org and login.
     
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  14. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member Staff Member

    It started working again for me yesterday Keith.
    Thanks.
     
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