I have put together a few different ideas for a layout and I think I finally landed at one that I like. I'm going to attempt something I haven't done before, a modular shelf switching layout. I'll have the layout plan posted at the bottom. The first thing I need advice on is what size of wood to make the modules out of. 2x4 Pine for the frame and 1/2" plywood for the top? I want this to be a semi permanent layout. As far as I can see in to the future I'll need to take this layout apart and move in about 3-4 years, then move again another 3-4 years after that. Also I'm considering adding a back drop to it as well, what would be recommended for that? Thanks Ethan
Very very nice track plan, Ethan. I notice that you have basically TWO 2x8 sections. Is this what you plan as relates to modules?
Actually looking at doing 4 2x4' modules. Gives me 10x8' total. Jim, would you reccomend 1x3"s for the frame and legs or just the frame and 2x4s for the legs? Ethan
I used 2x2s with bracing on my layout. Plenty strong enough especially when when using foam board. The extra width on the frame lets you bolt the ends together underneath. I'm sure there are many other methods to achieve the same goal.
Ethan, it looks like you have four 2x4 foot modules with three splices. On my N scale shelf layout I use several one foot wide modules that vary from 27 to 58 inches long. For bracing I use 1x2 pine and 3/4 inch birch for the top plywood. The birch plywood is used to prevent warping. Next is 1/2 inch blue foam and 1 inch pink foam on top of the plywood to allow for terrain effects such as a small stream and a few large ditches. After attaching the foam and plywood stack up I level the adjoining module and clamp the 1x2 frames together. Then using a 1/4 inch drill bit, match drill the framework and install 1/4 inch bolts with fender washers. When laying track go across the splice with a piece of track and then use a razor saw to cut it at the splice. The bolts will keep the track aligned even when the modules have been taken apart and reassembled. I've had good results using this method on two layouts. If you have any questions Please contact me and I will try to clarify the process. Joe
One more good tip, that little plastic tool that is used for cutting the track, for me was well worth the price. Its about a 2 inches and has slots for the rail. I use it for spreading ballast also. Just put your rock in between the rails and lay down the tool, just about like the railroad's do. move it along, and it spreads the rock. Lay it on one side and it will shape the shoulder also. Those little metal curve radius tools are quite nice also, move them around your flex track and they will make your curces look like a Jackson 6700 just run through it.
Ethan, I would suggest what we have been using on most of the layouts in KC; ripped 3/4" plywood. We rip the 4x8 sheet into strips 3 or 4" wide and then use drywall screws to fasten together. No warpage as you would get with dimensional lumber like pine and much more dimensional stability; humidity has much less of an effect on expansion/contraction. The construction will go fast and will be capable of being disassembled or modified easily.
Thank you all for your input. I am going to the lumber yard today to pick up materials and will begin the building process after that. Ethan
Ethan, one of the sites you might wish to visit is the free-mo standards site. It has some very useful information and these concepts can be used in the home as well. I have used them both for free-mo moduals and incorporated some of them into the home layout. Tony LaLumia
