Discussion in 'Flatcars' started by gjslsffan, Jun 20, 2019.
How would I glue that powder? That putty is kinda crazy expensive.
Ha, good luck Tom!
As an old fashioned, non tech savvy styrene scratchbuilder im glad to hear it though. Lol
I won’t dump my #11 blades and ruler quite yet.
I have not seen any 3D printed parts that were smooth enough for my taste. They might exist but nothing I have seen yet. They all have a grain or texture that would take quite a bit of time to make presentable. I’d like this to happen though because I’d like one of these. I’d like to see the texture when they get printed though.
Steve I agree with you man.
But along with my 100 packs of #11 Exacto blades and drawers of Styrene, I gonna have to try 3D again. I have like 3, 3D models now. I wanted the polished brass as my first choice (as well as the guy that drew it up) as the print lines get polished away (we hoped) and the model is heavy (my desire). After Shapeways took my PayPal, after a few days, I got an "update" and was told the "engineers had issues with the print. I then asked what is your problem with it? A couple days later their reply was a highlighted step, and said they needed it to be a minimum thickness. I said "OK with me" then a few more days go by, another email from them and they won't change the drawings as submitted, even though it was an easy fix (according to them). But no changes would be made unless the submitter re-drew the drawing, or OK'ed the changes by Shapeways "engineers", OK, so I gotta admire their loyalty (prolly a legal thing now), but wonder why they would not simply make the change, (or allow the print, as I requested with no claims for short comings) as at this point its been two weeks since the original submitter uploaded, but had not responded to requests for changes, (I do hope he is OK).
Another couple days go by and the guy that I had been communicating with said, " hey how about we combine shipping, for that set of trucks that goes with this car print" I said sure lets combine. Another couple days go by and another "update" and he tells me it was too late as the trucks are already shipped.
I getting kinda sore now, then they send me an email asking me if I was happy with all this. Well you can guess as to what my response was.
Full disclosure. After they refused the brass/steel print, I asked for the next best IMHO the super detailed plastic, then after another few days I get a "no again". Now I am wondering just what the heck is going on. This afternoon there is the durable plastic or Nylon print still available, I submitted the order for the durable plastic print, this has the rough finish (least desired, no weight, no smooth finish, print lines).
So lets see what Shapeways can do to de-rail it this time.
This is like a soap opera now. Still have no response to my "not happy" submission. I hope that not all 3D print proposals are not this difficult, as at this point it would be easier to well, no it wouldn't. The brass car if you can find one was offered by Brass Trains at $500.00, so trying to keep all this in perspective, it is still a good fight. I just wish Shapeways would at try to give at least an offer of meeting 1/2 way.
There were the ATSF, LV, NW, MLW, WM, SLSF and other RR's that roster'ed this GSC car, the submitter changed this to a GSI, his bad, as after this car was produced the company changed to GSI.
Did you ever try to push a chain with a broom? That is where my head is at right now. I just hope the original drawer/submitter is on vacation for a few weeks and responds to all this and it was like a learning thing, and maybe all have big laugh, but right now I am not so hopeful.
As far as the 3D prints I have gotten, their is a process, as to prepping them for paint. The waxy finish needs removed and the print lines, which are the print layers, need to be blended. Good thing is, the print medium is easily sanded smooth, almost too easy. But I am happy with the other 3D prints I have.
Just trying to push this chain across the finish line. So much good work has been done, I ain't gonna quit now.
I have not yet used it but my plan was to treat it like ballast; wet it with a wetting agent (probably Jet Dri or equiv) and then apply dilute Elmer's.
Thanks Keith, I found some Tungsten pellets that may work better.
On another note, I got another (4 times now) cancellation of print notice, this one for the durable plastic print. I wish there was a tutorial for this drawing.
There is the Nylon medium left which I will order Monday. But expect the same "Nope" notice.
I did get the trucks today, I will get in no hurry to finish them, at this point.
Good luck Tom. How did the trucks look?
I have only bought a few things too. I am too picky I think at this point?
One I could not resist was a guy offering a Cooper Bessemer. I am a U25 lover and we all know that every Frisco U25 had half the hood doors open when they ran. How perfect right.
Well I ordered s couple. They are the texture of 50 grit. It’s soft and sandable but removes the detail that I bought it for in the first place. Ugghhh
Steve I got the trucks in a couple days ago and they are surprisingly smooth. I opted for the super detail smooth plastic, now I just gotta clean the waxy finish off. But they look really good. Waiting on some 00-90, 00-80 and 01-72 screws for assembly.
BTW, the designer did get back to me today, he was hiking out of state, said he would fix the issues with Shapeways, over the next few days.
Good to hear Tom! Keep us posted. I am very interested in one. My dad has wanted one for years too. He bought the Camerelo and Funaro or what ever the name is, resin one a couple years ago. We figured I’d modify it for the Frisco version.
Were on again! I ordered the polished Alloy metal version. So we will see. Does anyone know a substitute for bestine for cleaning the plastic prints?
Tom, I don’t know for those but I use Wesley’s Bleach White or dish soap cleaning resin part before paint/ assembly.
Thanks Steve, I have some white cleaning Vinegar, I may try on a sprue of 3D printed material. Also some Simple Green cleaning solution as well. When you pay as much $$ for this stuff you dont want to damage it with the wrong chemical. LOL.
Well Bestine is a rubber glue thinner, and is Heptane, not really sure what Heptane is, but it wont harm plastics and leaves no residue. I just wish I knew a substitute that could be found in a common store, like wally world or True Value.
Also, hoping they polish this metal car smooth enough to be usable.
I got a really cool looking transformer for it in the Mail yesterday. As soon as I get some cleaning solution and get this stuff cleaned off. I will get some images uploaded.
Hope that worked? It’s a link to bestine at Dick Blicks Art supply
I ordered the gallon version LOL, maybe get a couple things cleaned before it all evaporates LOL, which is exactly my luck. Thanks for the links!!
Well still at this folks. All is not lost as yet. After 4 attempts of modifying the metal print, and 3 weeks after the last order for same, I got an email saying they had decided not to print. Yea 3 weeks after the order was placed, and I was only told after I sent a request asking about the delay. I was told the steps broke off the print when polishing, well I bet would if you were using a 1 HP buffing machine and leaned in a bit, it would happen every time.
I have also been working with another designer to modify an existing transformer print for the load. I bought this 3D transformer and when I got, it was great. But you could put it on a standard height flat it would not be excessive height. So I sent that designer a note, that if he made it 4 scale ft taller it would be a better fit for drop deck flats, and have more purpose. He did the mods over night, and was very helpful and thankful about it, it went from 11ft to now 15ft tall, great detail with pipes and little boxes on it.
Another thing I have learned is, although the "Smoothest" plastic print is a bit more expensive, it is worth every penny as the print lines are so thin, it is very smooth and minimal sanding is necessary, not at all the 50ish grit finish. The trucks I got are the smoothest print and very nice looking, I suggested some modifications, (that were made) still working on prepping them for paint. Will get a few images and show them soon, they go together like the Walthers 3 axle trucks with 4, 2-56 screws. Fingers crossed here we go again.
Sooo, I reordered 3 products tonight in the smoothest plastic print, we will see, if they dont want to print the flat car again, the designer and I have agreed we will remove the steps from the print and buy them after market, and apply separately. Ordering 3 items at the same time has a significant savings in shipping, I also sent a message that if the flat gets turned down to cancel the entire order, as all items are directly related to the flat car.
Got my Bestine in the US Mail yesterday, so good to go there.
Steve, looks like I might be hittin you up for some lead, sheet that is, LOL.
I think that still gives me hope Tom...?.... I agree still that removing the steps is the way to go. That is a pretty readily available part and accepted as an upgrade people make on simple or older rolling stock all the time.
LMK, if they get something for you. I will may some lead your way. Your mailman will wonder why an envelope is so heavy! HA Like I said before it is easy to hide or used as tarps etc, in plain sight but still adds weight. Maybe just hollow out your transformer and fill it with lead shot or fishing line weights? Unless you plan to run the car empty and loaded.
I just received a set of truck wheels that are 3D printed. The grain was very fine for the most part. I lightly sanded what I could without killing the lugnut detail etc... I then shot them with Alclad II chrome. The front two really dont show much if any grain. The back two are deeper and show grain on the barrrel of the rim. Probably if I was to use regular pigmented paint for a color not chrome lacquer most of the grain would be gone. I'll take some pics to share this weekend. I was encouraged by the smoothness. Still not like injection molded but closer to acceptable than any other 3D parts I have.
Just to keep you up to date on this thread, I got all 3 items from the last order. The Transformer is great! Looks the part for sure (smoothest plastic print). The trucks and jacking pads are good too (smoothest plastic print). The car, (smoothest plastic print) well, arrived like it was over loaded for years. A sway backed nag. I didn't take pictures, I should have. Anyways the designer advised me to clamp to a straight bar and lay it in direct sunlight for a day and let the plastic cure from the suns UV rays. I let it set for 3 days in direct sunlight, and while it did do a lot of good, it still went a bit sway backed after un-clamped for a couple hours.
I contact Shapeways (SW), and they told me to put it in 125F water and clamp where desired and it would be fine. Well I went and bought a good cooking thermometer then heated to 125F, 130F, 140F water and no changes. After un-clamping it reverts right back to the sway back nag after a few hours. Tonight I heated to 150F, let it sit for 5 minutes, then turned off the fire and let it set in the water till room temp, (a bit over an hour). Gonna leave it clamped till tomorrow and see if it will stay as intended. I gotta say I have had a couple guys over, and they told me I was crazy, and it wasn't that bad, but I am a jerk about this being right I guess, but when loaded and the load is gonna be 5oz, I just want it to be right, and not dragging and polishing the rails.
Using this info https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-anneal-your-3d-prints-for-strength as a guide to help fix this and make the plastic harder and re form-able. I am at the upper limits of the temps here, a few more degrees F and it might end up melting the whole thing into a blob. But if that happens, so be it, I want it to be right, it needs to have a bit of a crown.
Will let you know in a few days how the 150F water cooking went LOL.
Thanks for all the info Tom. Good luck.
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