So, as of the last couple months I have been gathering detailing parts for a Bachmann 2-8-2 Mikado that was released a few years back. I got it new in box, and wanting to be a little ambitious I'm planning to add more prototypical appliances and piping to the engine. One thing that is confounding me is, I bought a brass 'coonskin' number board to replace the square board that comes stock. What might be the best way to go about painting and ultimately numbering this board? I have never worked with brass in modeling, so my knowledge base is seriously small. Any tips or trick would be appreciated. Thank you.
What I usually do is with the plate "face up" and level, I use the tip of a toothpick or piece of brass rod about maybe .025 dip it in signal red paint (not too deep) and carefully spread the paint into the coonskin until it is uniformly covered. Easy part done now. I have a pen with silver paint, probably available I'm sure at Hobby Lobby or an art store. These have a very fine tip. Carefully do the edges of the plate with it. Then after everything is cured and dry, letter with decals. I tried adding a photo, but have little or no luck on this website.
Here are the only new manufactured ones I have found. https://k4decals.com/products/slsf-...hite-decal-slsfs?_pos=21&_sid=a03cf5b69&_ss=r I use the Precision Scale plastic headlight bracket 31608. I usually just cut the number board off the bracket and glue/weld it to the models bracket. I have 2 of the these. I have only added a dog house to one. I have not done any extra detail work to them yet. They have a few tracking issues. Both have the same issues. They do pull good for a Bachmann. So one is back in it's box and the our sits on the shelf. They track fine on my switching layout (flat shelf using code 83 track) But on my continues run layout with grades they have issues. (2.5 max grade and code 100 track), They derail at slightest grade transition and on a few of the layouts switches. First issue is not enough weight in the smoke box. Oddly there is a area for a weight and there USRA 4-6-2 has the smoke box weight. Not sure why they did not put the weight in the 2-8-2. I just added weights to smoke box void. This helps with traction and derailing on switches. Next issue is the grade transition derails. I know what is causing the issue but fixing it would need Bachmann to re-engineer the pilot and add vertical play to the drivers. Still work on good solution for this issue. The pilot has almost no vertical drop. Nor is there a spring or heavy enough for gravity. I need to look for at a replacement pilot.
Good to know that these issues exist. Wish there were some other options for HO Frisco power available. I would love to have one of the 4-6-2's, 4-8-2's (1500 or 4400 series) and a decent 2-8-2. No grades planned for my little 4x8 switching layout, so maybe no issues with this Bachmann Mikado. Will have to go in and add that weight inside the smoke box as well. Appreciate the info.
I have no issues on the flat, 18" x 9' switching layout. I gave up a long time ago on having Frisco proto steam locos. If I can get it close enough am happy. It's become more about does run good!. I have one Bachmann USRA 4-6-2 that I repainted to Frisco. Gloss finish, Gold decals. These models have one issue. The driver power pickup wipers point down and can catch on proto and close to proto switch frogs and guards. I just shorted the wipers that catch by putting a bend in them. They have dimple that contacts with the back of the drive. This dimple is needed. I think the only Light 2-8-2 available in HO is the Bachmann right now. BLI is only doing USRA 2-8-2s in N. In HO we are limited in chooses because the market has shifted to proto models. This does make me sad because I would have liked to have seen a modern versions of Rivarossi 2-8-2 and 4-6-2. or even Mehano updated. One other thing the number arrangement on K4 decals is not great. Unlike Odd Ball that had a much better number arrangement where you could cut out all 4 or pairs. With the K4 sets I had to cut out each number and set one number at a time. It just takes more time.
I've run into similar issues - if I'm doing phonetography with my iPhone 15 Plus, I can't seem to crop the photos small enough to get them to take unless I run them through a photo editor where I can resize them. If you (or others) want to email me photos that you'd like to post, I can resize them (chris_abernathy <at> icloud <dot> com).
Since we all have the same issues with posting photos through cell phones. Hopefully, this issue can be resolved soon. This website needs to be compatible with the latest cell phone technology .
