I have a 2-10-0 by Bachmann and use it on DC (not DCC) While the sound is great. I have to say I somewhat disappointed in how the chuff does not match the driver in DC mode. With well over 150 loco's I do not plan on going DCC I know next to nothing about steam engines and absolutely nothing about sound for a non DCC type engine's, steam or otherwise. Is there a good sound system I an install on this engine I have 2 that I would like to fix up. Any info on this is greatly appreciated THANKS Tom GJ|-|
I would say get decoder pro to fix these problems. Personally I have never used it, but Bob Wintle has told me about it, and he seems to know a lot about it. I would say talk to him, he has way more experience than me with DCC.
Thanks, I have allot to learn about steam, I have biult 100's of Deisels but exactly 0 steamers Perhaps he will see this post and reply. That sound stuff is neat but I think it might drive me crazy after extended periods of time. Of course I don't have far to go i the respect. Regards|-| Tom
I agree, but I don't know if I would get tired of it or not. I have 5 diesels and a steamer, but no sound.
Way back in the day PFM made a great Steam sound system. If I remember correctly the guys used to add a steam chuff cam to get the sound and the movement of the loco to sync. There was another popular brand that I do not recall at the moment. I had one of them. Actually I had Fred Nortons. Mine was on order and the company in California literally slid off into the Pacific Ocean in a mud slide. I would have been out $250 but Fred took Pity on me and let me keep his. I wish I could remember the brand. It was COOL stuff way back then. Decoder Pro would be no help to the DC crowd. It is only useful to the DCC crowd. Bob Wintle Parsons, Ks.
Bob: If it is the same one that I am thinking of it was something like McGoffin or close to that. Does that help ring a bell?
No that is not it and it didn't jar anything loose from my gray matter. If I remember correctly the PFM unit was much larger. The one I had was in a brushed aluminum case and was very nice looking. Bob
The one Bob H was thinking of was Magoffin. Years ago (1983 in the hobby shop) I installed a Modeltronics unit in a Southern 4-6-2 for a gentleman. I liked it so much, I bought one for myself. It presently resides in an G gauge boxcar. I put a square nut on one of the axles and made a switch that rides on the squares of the nut to produce four chuffs per revolution. The Modeltronics unit used a 15 volt battery so it did not rely on track power. Now with DCC, I believe that the track power could be used to power the unit.
Keith: Not sure if you will get this or even see it, but I am taking the chance that you might. I am in G scale and like you enjoy using sound systems in my equipment when I can. Recently I purchased some Old still in the package ModelTronics sounds systems with the pumps and lighting kits at a dirt cheap price. The instructions to say the least and less than desirable. I have everything wired up but the wires going to the contacts. What I am trying to figure out is, since the contacts are connected to the tender frame and engine, do these pick up power from the track as well as the use of the 15V battery? I am using the Aristocraft Train Engineer control system and built a battery eliminator for the 15V battery by using a Bridge rectifier a LM7815 Voltage regulator and a couple Caps. This is powered via the TE receivers output that got to the motor. So do the contact wires have to connect to the tender frame and locomotive frame or can they be isolated and just hooked to a cam and wiper on the axle. I figured that since you have installed a modeltronics system in a G scale box car you would be the one to ask about it. you can email me off the forum at danshouston@gmail.com Thanks Dan S.
Dan, if I remember correctly, the contact wires for the chuff system are to be connected to a set of contacts that close 4 times per revolution of the wheels of the locomotive. The G scale locomotive that we have is one of the LGB tank engines, so as I indicated, I placed the sound unit in a boxcar. I took one of the axles from one of the boxcar trucks. I noticed a parting line at the center of the axle between the wheels and was able to pull the axle apart. I then was able to glue a square nut on the axle in the center - this was going to be my synchronizing cam. I made a set of switch contacts from phosphor bronze and sandwiched them in layers of styrene to insulate them. Mounted the switch to the truck with wires through the boxcar floor. Adjusted the switch contacts to close when in contact with the corners of the square nut. An alternative would be to set up some sort of quartering contacts on the inside of one of the boxcar wheels similar to those offered by Soundtraxx (#810038).
Tom, take a look at the attachment extracted from Soundtraxx's Steam Technical Reference Manual. The formula will help you determine the correct setting for CV 116 that will get the steam chuff rate very, very close to right without a cam.
Thanks Keith, I will give it a go but you might have to do it when you come out this way. I will email you. Thank You Tom Holley
