NW-2 Kitbash and Paint

Discussion in 'Electo-Motive Division (EMD)' started by adams, Apr 28, 2019.

  1. adams

    adams QLA-QSF

    Hello All, Here’s my latest experiment...I wanted an NW-2 like the one I was rode on as a kid in St. Louis, so I took an old Varney shell and an Athearn SW-7 chassis....The frame took a few easy cuts with a motor tool, and the shell needed a small cutout also. Then I tried one of the suggestions posted here—Rustoleum Satin Poppy Red. I think it hits the mark. I’ll post more pics when complete.

    Attached Files:

  2. w3hodoug

    w3hodoug 2008 Engineer of the Year Frisco.org Supporter

    Several of us have done this conversion. That Varney shell was surprisingly nice. We even cooperated and did an article in Prototype Modeler magazine many years ago. Jerry Hurt was the main author, but I did a lot of editing and artwork. Charlie Dischinger supplied the front & back cover prototype photos. Here's mine.
    yardmaster and Ozarktraveler like this.
  3. meteor910

    meteor910 2009 Engineer of the Year Staff Member Frisco.org Supporter

    I bought the Varney NW2 model at one of the St Louis swap meets several years ago. It was done in TRRA grey, and like you say, was pretty well done for a very early HO model. The early Walthers TRRA decals were terrible, but that's all we had. It had the original drive, so it was not a very good runner either, very noisy. I just let it sit around for a while, then sold it online. Should have done what you did with an Athearn SW7 chassis & drive.

    Later I refreshed my desire for a couple of TRRA grey switchers with the Stewart VO-660 and DS-44-1000 models. Still have them - very nice!

  4. adams

    adams QLA-QSF

    I’d like to see that article! Fortunately, all it required was the following:
    1) cut off the Athearn coupler pockets
    2) cut the little tabs on the frame that hold the Athearn shell
    3) the Athearn frame narrows near the center— that notch needs to be extended about 1/4” each way
    4) On the Varney shell, enlarge the back opening just up to the screw hole that holds the cab.
    That’s really about it. I did have to hardwire the truck-motor contact because that strip of metal shorts out on the metal shell. Here’s the progress...unfortunately I only had one FRISCO decal left, so the other side is still blank!

    Attached Files:

    w3hodoug likes this.

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