The four locomotives of this class, 148-151, nee 98-101 were built by Rogers. The 96-103, nee 28 -35, were built by Manchester for the KCFtS&M . Number 94, nee 44, née KCOS 7 was built by Cooke.
Jim, here's a photo of Frisco 148 with a short passenger train at Aldrich, Mo., on the former KCC&S. 148-151 were classmates, built by Rogers in 1886. Date of the photograph is unknown, but from the car in the background and other factors, I would guess it to be circa 1930. The boiler looks straight in this photo. It could have been replaced at some point. The 148 has obviously been modernized, and differs from your photo of the 151 in several ways. I'm not sure whether the cab is steel or wood, or perhaps a combination of the two with a steel roof attached to wood sides(?). There's some kind of mechanism (power reverse?) between the drivers. The air pump is out of sight, presumably on the fireman's side, and the generator and headlight are arranged differently than in the photo of 151. I've considered using a Roundhouse/MDC/Athearn 4-4-0 as a starting point for this class, mainly due to the straight boiler.
Thanks, Brad. Good to hear from you. Definatly lots of similarities and differences like cabs, running boards and generator placement . Those old steamers sure were modified and rung out by the time they were retired weren't they? I have the Roundhouse 2-6-0 and their 4-4-0 s are exactly the same except for the drivers of course. The boiler just sits up so high on them that the lines just don't look right to me. It could probably be made to work. They are great runners. Thanks for the photo.
Quickly going back to the head light thing, I will throw this advice out there. It's not very hard. I have a whole series on youtube about wiring lights and locomotives with DCC, it can be applied to DC easily. If a 3mm LED doesn't fit, try a 1.2mm bulb, I use a lot of those. Also look at the surface mount LED's as well. Ethan
Thanks, Ethan. I'll be sure and check out the videos. I'm gonna do it. I'll order some bulbs along with a detail parts order. What color, white or yellow? Any opinions on what color would be most authentic for that type of headlight?
I have a few ?s about #151 details and please excuse my lack of knowledge. I can model what I see but want to be sure what it is. Under the cab is a small horizontal cylinder. Is that a small air tank and would there be one on the opposite side? The large two part vertical cylinder above the running board is the airpump I suppose but would there also be one on the opposite side? If not, would there be a much larger horizontal air tank on the opposite side under the running board? There seems to be a pipe angling down from the upper cab window down toward the pump. What was that for? Is that a small air pipe running up to actuate the bell? Are the two small cylinders fore and aft on the running board water pumps? I'm wanting to shop for detail parts but I need educated. Thanks to anyone for taking time to help me out with these questions.
Jim, regarding headlights, you can choose warm white LEDs (the smaller the better, say 3mm or SMD) or you can use 1.2mm 1.5V 15ma bulbs. Either way you will have to use a resistor to limit current flow. For the LEDs, a 1000 ohm resistor should cover you. For the bulbs, I would use a 680 ohm 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistor for normal DCC voltages from the decoder light outputs.
Starting to sound complicated. Where do you buy these items? Walthers? I'm going to my favorite hobby shop this weekend. I'm sure the owner could set me up. It's the best hobby shop I've ever seen.
One of the suppliers of these items, Miniatronics, sells the bulbs #18-001-10 (10 pack) or their Yeloglo white LEDs #12-310-05 (5 pack). The resistors can be picked up at Radio Shack. The key thing you want to look at is the space that you have where you are wanting the light. The bulbs are by far the smallest, but will not work well on DC track with a decoder. The LEDs should.
You are correct. My apologies. I had Cooke on the brain from looking at all the locomotives. 101, aka, 151 was built by Rogers. Nice catch Carl. I don't want to mislead anyone!
To say a 1000 ohm resistor will work with any LED is simply not correct! Not all LEDs have a forward voltage drop of 3.5 to 4.5 volts or run at 20ma. You have to calculate the value of the resistor and its wattage rating. I show you how to calculate the resistor value and wattage in the dvd I will send you when you give me your snail mail address. Retired Electronics and Electrical Engineer. Is this locomotive going to run on DC or DCC?
Regarding the 1K resistor with LEDs; for every warm white LED that I have encountered, the 1K will work for Jim's application. Using your 20 milliamps of current flow example with a 1K resistor, Richard, you must be assuming a 20 volt power source from the decoder. Assuming a 14 volt source (more realistic), a 3.2 volt LED operating voltage and a 15ma operating current (typical for warm white LEDs, the calculated resistor would be 820 ohms. A 1K resistor would keep the LED below its maximum current rating.
Jim, where did you get that straight AHM boiler? All 4-4-0's I find have a slight taper on the rearward section that houses the firebox. Any ideas?
Keith, I will agree with the 1Kohm resistor used with warm white LEDs, you just cannot make a blanket statement with out letting people know what LEDs you are talking about. For example I have some white LEDs rated at 2.3 V forward voltage drop @ 2ma (not 20ma); try them with you 1kohm and they will be burned up. I still say If it is a new LED to you, you have to calculate the resistor value and wattage once. DCC blue wire voltage is always 14 volts on a HO system because the NMRA standard is 14.5 volts on the rails. If you calculate the resistance for maximum forward current flow, then you know that is the lowest value you can use, and ,yes, increasing the value from that will run the LED at less current if you want to do so. I personnally like to run them at maximum current because I want bright headlights that shine down the rails. Bulbs are not worth considering in my way of thinking. To each his own.
Tonight I scratchbuilt a complete new cab for my #151. The AHM original cab just didn't quite look right and then I realized that it is OO scale. No wonder. I used styrene sheet and built up a more accurate cab according to my photos of the prototype. The OO scale is okay for the boiler and wheels because I'm representing a late century 4-4-0 which is larger than the 1869ish prototype intended for the AHM model but the cab just didn't carry over. I'm no master modeler but I think my efforts paid off. It'll look better when it's all finished.
A+ for effort. Take a closer look of the cab windows in the original picture. Your cab windows are too big. They need to be shorter, and the area that has the FRISCO needs to be larger. Don't rush Jim. Your workmanship is too good to just settle. Try again! Once done, all you'll need to do is take the fender skirts off the drive wheels and get rid of the mounting tabs for the fancy artwork that was originally equipped on AHM models.
As the old saying goes, "back to the drawing board." Hopefully I can just pop the sides off and save everything else. Thanks, Manny.
