Discussion in 'N Scale' started by jmoore16, Dec 2, 2016.
Isn't N scale the greatest scale there is!!!
I wish I had the skills to do a project like John. Great job!!!
If I am not mistaken, at least the original life-like GP18 is has a 4 part shell ( cab, walkway, short hood, and long hood ).
I am not sure the GP18 shell has ever been retooled by Life-Like or walthers.
That means the only cutting you have to do is on the RS2, which makes the job easier. The cuts you do have to make are all hidden under the cab.
Well, I sanded the CMR Products RS-2M long hood down as shown in the photo above and shortened it until it mated up with the end of the cab. Turns out, the long hood fits fairly tight over the frame of the original Frisco RS-2, so I did plan on sliding it down over the frame and call it ready for horn, spark arrestors and paint.
After looking at the long hood from CMR, I was not happy with the details that we have come to enjoy from current molds used to produce factory painted locomotive shells.
I have decided, after digging in my parts bin, to use a long hood off of a Proto N Scale GP18. I soaked away the Southern paint scheme using 90% Isopropyl Alcohol and an old tooth brush. You can see from the photo that the long hood from the GP18 (darker grey above) has much more detail than the CMR long hood (lighter grey below).
The Proto GP18 long hood has a groove or channel that is molded in the cab end that locates the cab. The cab on the Proto RS-2 is located in the same manner with channels molded into the shell. If you recall, I cut the long hood off the original RS-2 shell but I left the cab channels intact.
After seeing the Proto GP18 long hood with a similar channel for one side of the cab, I thought I could shorten the original RS-2 short hood so I could use the RS-2 cab to help secure the GP18 long hood. I can't do this, as the RS-2 cab is molded to fit the RS-2 hood and not the taller GP18 long hood. I will shorten the Proto GP18 long hood by the amount shown to get it to fit same as the CMR Products long hood.
More later when I can find some time...
You may not want to shorten that GP18 long hood yet.
I'm looking at prototype photos, and I think the hood should be longer than the original. I'm looking for some better photos though...
10-4 Paul. Wouldn't get to it until Tuesday or Wednesday anyway!
By the way - Any hints from the top view on where the horns should be located? I know they need to be pointed long hood forward, but don't know if they need to be offset to one side. It appears so, but by how much?
There is a nice side shot of 554 on Mike Condren's website:
( it is the last image )
As to horn placement, I haven't found a good overhead shot, but it is either offset to the engineers side or it is inline with the exhaust stacks.
In his June 2007 article on In RMC on kitbashing these Richard Napper offset the horn to the engineers side, half way between the centerline and the edge of the roof.
Another interesting observation, late in its Frisco career, 551 had it's number boards moved to the side of the short hood
This makes me tempted to model 551 using a Life-Like RS2 with the number boards in the original position (I was inspired by this thread. I am waiting for a new to me undecorated GP18 to arrive in the mail... )
Here's a puzzle for you!
Which side is the engineer's side on an RS2M???
The RS2s (before and after repowering ) were long hood forward and the engineer always sits on the right side of the cab.
So the photo of 551 I linked to above shows the conductor's side and the photo of 554 on Mike Condren's website shows was the engineer's side.
Have you tried to fit your GP18 long hood on the RS2 chassis yet?
I just tried mine, and the GP18 shell has thicker sidewalls than the original RS2 shell. It looks like some filing/sanding on the inside is going to be required to get it to fit.
Great stuff guys,
I was told the long hood was still "F", to modify all the cab controls and valve configuration and modifications was just too expensive and complicated to make it feasible.
There were mistakes made in paint that reflect the short hood was "F" when in actuality it wasnt. Which makes for an interesting modeling conversation.
Here are a couple of photos of where I am on my RS2M.
I finally got to the sanding and filing required to make the GP18 hood fit on the Kato RS2 chassis. All the filing was done on the chassis.
Looks good. Over the hump now at least so you can get her painted up.
There are still some details to add. Spark a restore and a horn being the most obvious ones.
Just a dumb question, where do you get spark arrestors in N Scale? I'm ready for paint except for the same details...
Detail associates makes ( made?) the ones that are closest to scale size for what was used by the Frisco on these units. These are hard to find.
The only other choice I am aware of is miniatures by Eric. These are oversized.
Hey John, if you aren't able to find any off the shelf I'd be happy to draft some up and 3D print (high resolution) them for you. I've been so caught up in drafting Milwaukee Road models for the last couple years I'd like to be doing more for the Frisco community since Frisco is my true passion. Feel free to PM me if you want to set something up! (this offer extends to any of you needing Frisco details that don't exist or are hard to find - any scale within certain size constraints)
Besides the 1700 caboose, we in HO scale need the drop center GSC 6 axle flat car featured in Mr. Molo's book center page 85. I think it is too big for your printer to do in one piece, you could break it at the center of the middle axles there seems to be a natural break there. You folks in N scale, have the micro trains cars. Now the ATSF, PRR, and other big RR's had them, cant understand why we in HO missed out on that model for the masses. There is a brass model, but you need to sell a kidney for one if you can find it. Need the trucks too. Those (timken bearing) upgrades are not available in HO I dont think. KW may correct me on that though.
Separate names with a comma.