Chipped paint and oil paint weathering

Discussion in 'Modeling Tips' started by modeltruckshop, Mar 13, 2018.

  1. I'll start a thread here for a mini how to for any of you that might be interested. I will add to it as I get to a few other parts that need significant wethering. Thanks in advance for checking it out. Let me know if there are questions, sorry I am not much of an author.
    Some of these things may not apply well to HO or newer SLSF equipment but you get the idea nd might be able to adapt them.
    First chipped paint:
    One the part is paint ready, it needs to be coated with whatever you want for a base color. I would suggest dark. Or a rusty color. Even primer will work. For these parts I mixed ALcladII laquer colors Burnt Exhaust and Jet Exhaust. I wanted a little bit of a metallic effect to what will look like old worn steel. IF you happen to use AlcladII shoot a light basecoat of gloss black first, then a couple very light coats of the color of choice.
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    Once you have let it dry it needs a light coat of clear to protect it. I suggest Dulcoat easy and fast drying. Then the chipping fluid is applied with a couple light coats through an airbrush. Shoot one coat lightly across and a second vertically. Here is a couple I use. For big chipped areas the MIG Ammo works great. For smaller effects or simply worn paint I suggest the AK brand. DON"T panic when it looks rough. It should.
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    This shot is right after I sprayed it.
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    It will smooth out as it dries. Less is more. If the coat is too heavy it will work but take a while to dry.
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    Once the chipping fluid has dried completely to the touch the body color can be sprayed. For the best results and least work use acrylic paint. I use mostly Testors Model Master Acryl but most acrylic will work. Vallejo is very tough to chip because of the polymer formula they use in the paint.
    Once again a couple light coats but make sure you cover everything completely.
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