Bachmann 2-10-0, any good?

Discussion in '2-10-0 Decapod' started by TAG1014 (Tom Galbraith RIP 7/15/2020), Jun 27, 2015.

  1. slsfrr (Jerome Lutzenberger RIP 9/1/2018)

    slsfrr (Jerome Lutzenberger RIP 9/1/2018) Engineer Staff Member Supporter

    As I have mentioned before you cannot beat IHC, Mantuas, etc. for reliability :). I upgrade the bodies, renumber, and off to the layout they go. Jerome
    qaprr likes this.
  2. might have to pick one up. This is how it starts. Somewhat nail down a date and then POW! Backdate it
  3. wpmoreland719

    wpmoreland719 Member Supporter

    I bought a Spectrum Decapod off of EBay a couple of weeks ago after my son spotted it and fell in love with it. New in the box, with a flyer for the 2001 Bachmann catalog inside. It is a beautiful locomotive. Ran well for a day, but it won’t run at all now. The rearward facing tender light comes on when it is in reverse, but the headlight does not come on when in forward.

    The locomotive is DCC-ready only, and I have a cheapie MRC DC power pack, which runs my other engines well. Any help troubleshooting this would be greatly appreciated.

    Pat Moreland,
    Wesco, Missouri
  4. Ozarktraveler

    Ozarktraveler Member

    Watching with great interest. I purchased same a couple of years back, but it has never been tested as of yet. Here's hoping yours gets sorted soon.
  5. gna

    gna Member Supporter Chris upthread, my Decapod seemed to get stuck after sitting for a couple of years. I'm not sure what the problem was, but I gave it power and it wouldn't move, forward or reverse (I use DCC, not sure it matters). I nudged it a little bit and got it to go, finally. Some wisps of smoke appeared at one point, but it seems to be ok. I wonder if the cogged belt gets stuck? The lube didn't seem to be a problem.
    I would check for binds in the rods, check the lube and check that the connectors to the tender are seated. You could try giving it power and nudging and see if you could get it running. I'm not sure how to get to the belt, but there are some links on the internet.

    See Workshop Wednesday and Workshop Wednesday
    Ozarktraveler likes this.
  6. yardmaster

    yardmaster Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporter

    That was my best guess on mine, Gary. The smell of burnt rubber accompanied my wisps o' smoke. Once I finally disassembled it, the belt did show wear-I'm now using that unit for parts. :)

    Best Regards,
    Ozarktraveler likes this.
  7. meteor910

    meteor910 2009 Engineer of the Year Staff Member Supporter

    Typical Bachmann. My GE 44 tanner runs OK but puts out wisps of smoke. I never ran it much ..... it looks great, but I know something will burn out sooner or later. The smoke is coming from the motor.
    Ozarktraveler likes this.
  8. wpmoreland719

    wpmoreland719 Member Supporter

    Okay, thank you all for the tips. I will take it apart (with some apprehension) and check the belt. I did nudge it with power, but nothing. The tender connections seem to be seated properly. My son said that he saw smoke coming it from, although I didn’t. Hopefully nothing is burnt. I’ll let you all know if I can figure it out and get it running.

    Thanks again,

    Pat Moreland,
    Wesco, Missouri
    Joe Lovett and Ozarktraveler like this.
  9. gna

    gna Member Supporter

    I have never taken one apart, so take this with a grain of salt. Here are some directions form the MR forum, linked in Workshop Wednesday:

    Bachmann “Russian” 2-10-0 Disassembly
    Method 1:
    1. Unscrew pony truck assembly being careful not to lose the spring.
    2. Gently pull the grate shakers free from the frame under both sides of the cab.
    3. Remove the drawbar and the screw up through the cylinder saddle freeing the boiler assembly.
    4. Use a very thin screwdriver or knife blade to gently pry the cab free while jiggling it back and forth. Look for the little tabs at the front corners of the cab that will release with a little pressure.
    5. Now remove any of the piping detail from the boiler that looks as though it will interfere with the boiler removal. Can’t be more helpful as this varies by model.
    6. It should now be possible to very gently lift the boiler from the chassis. Look carefully for any boiler details that may get hung up. The boiler subassembly includes the motor, drive screw, upper plastic shell, metal boiler bottom and running boards.
    7. To free the shell from the weighted base, carefully lift off the running boards and separate the shell from the motor housing and weight. The front firebox wall, under the boiler, needs to be pulled forward and removed to fully release the motor housing.

    Here's a picture of the similar 2-8-0:

    The split halves need to be taken apart to get to the belt. You can get a new belt from Bachmann, if that's the problem. Good luck.
  10. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporter

    What he meant was good luck getting a belt from Bachmann...
  11. gna

    gna Member Supporter

  12. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporter

    Gary, I've had a 2-8-0 and a 4-8-2 apart. It is a little challenging to get everything lined up when going back together, but I figured that I was at least as good as a little Chinese lady...
    Jim James and Ozarktraveler like this.
  13. wpmoreland719

    wpmoreland719 Member Supporter

    I took it apart, and the belt appeared to be in good condition. With it on the track, the motor would hum ever so slightly, but wouldn’t turn. I could help it along by manually turning the plastic sheave that is connected by the belt. So my guess is that the motor is shot, probably from me not greasing the worm gear/center driver axle gear before trying it out. Stupidity on my part.

    I know a guy that knows a thing or two about steam locomotives, especially Frisco engines, big and small, who’s going to take a look at it for me and try to get it back together, as I don’t trust myself to do it.

    Pat Moreland,
    Wesco, Missouri
    Ozarktraveler likes this.
  14. gna

    gna Member Supporter

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  15. gstout

    gstout Member Supporter

    You guys are not making this sound like something I am going to want to buy. Just sayin'.

    Ozarktraveler likes this.
  16. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Supporter

    This design is from the old Spectrum line. The newer offerings from Bachmann use gears. I have one of the newer 2-8-0 locos and it runs very nicely.
    Ozarktraveler likes this.
  17. alfsboy

    alfsboy Member

    Its not the drive belt its the motor pulley splitting ,Just like n the dreaded Bachmann gear farce .You have to buy a new motor assembly which comes out pricey in the UK with post and duties I had it on two decapods .One was still sealed in its box but had laid around for several years .Its a disgrace but like thousands of other suckers found out ,no dice on a replacement from bachmann .I got one running by buying a new motor but the other is sitting in its box .i will look out for a decent ,read cheap PFM brass .Even then NWSL packing up soon may well keep that one in its box too if the geasrbox is damaged.I will order a NWSL just in case .
  18. gna

    gna Member Supporter

    By the Bachmann gear farce, do you mean like the 4-8-4s?
    If the motor pulley splits, would that give off wisps of smoke? Mine seems to be running ok lately, but I'm a bit concerned...
  19. gstout

    gstout Member Supporter

    Sounds like quite a bargain....

  20. Joe Lovett

    Joe Lovett Member

    I have two N scale Bachmann 2-8-0 locomotives that run great, all of my locomotives are DC. Will get DCC when I get further along with the layout expensive parts.

    Below is a photo of Frisco 1332, the other locomotive is 1340. Both were in service on Frisco's Central Division, Ft. Smith sub.



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