Anyone ever use Code 55 rail?

Discussion in 'General' started by SAFN SAAP, Nov 29, 2011.

  1. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Manny, I look forward to seeing this. I still need to get more bsllast for you 'cause you'll need it. I'm impressed by your drive for accuracy. Makes me think more about trying handlaying some track someday but it seems like you gotta buy a large bundle of rail and it's expensive. Get busy man.
     
  2. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Hey Jim, et all,

    Construction is right around the corner. Benchwork from Siever's will run me about $700.00 shipped. I just don't have the tools necessary to make the benchwork myself. I had Siever's before and it's top rate.

    As for the table top, I am thinking of going with 3/4 Birch. Although it would make the table heavy, it seems to be the best thing to use. I've thought about using foam, but I'm not really impressed with it.

    As for the backdrop, I was thinking of having the skyline of the City of Fredericksburg made up from old panoramic photographs which are available. I would do them in B&W to cause a contrast and a raised relief affect by the actual models made.

    Handlaying track isn't as difficult as everyone seems to make it out to be. It is so much easier now with the Fast Track jigs. I won't need a large amount of rail. The big bundle that ME offers is only $48.00. That's more than enough. I haven't calculated out the cost for track totals, but I'm estimating it at around $700.00. That is for tools, jigs, and material to complete the entire trackwork. I won't need anything further.

    I will contact you Jim concerning the dirt. I'm going to need it not only for the track but for the roads. I will update my track plan with roads shortly. I hope to start construction right after New Years.
     
  3. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    I just determined that the standard length of rail being used on the S.A.F&N, was between 36' and the standardized 39'. In HO Scale, that gives a range of 4 15/16" to 5 3/8" per section of track. I will simply that by making each section 5", each rail staggered joint. Rail was spiked on both side directly to the rail, with fish plates or joiners at each joint. Ties were located at 24" centers, or 2640 to the route mile, with spacing being farther apart in curves. Ballast, from the Fredericksburg Tunnel, north into Fredericksburg was primarily CRUSHED LIMESTONE, mixed with dirt, as this was plentiful from the debris created in drilling out the tunnel. Once in Fredericksburg, all circa photographs show all dirt as track settled down into the ground throughout town. Weed maintenance around the track was NOT the norm, so there will be tall grass in-between the rails.

    This should make for very interesting track building.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 2, 2011
  4. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Haha! Details West makes rail bars, Code 55, RB-985. That rocks! They come in 24 packs for $2.95 (Current price). Looks like I need to order a few! Awesomeness!
     
  5. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    I contacted Fast Tracks today to see what the potential cost would be to have custom track jigs made with PC Ties located at 5" centers. Needless to say, it was way more than I expected. So, having learned this, maybe doing 5" sectional rail may not be in the cards, which disappoints. I know I need a PC Tie on the joint. We'll see.
     
  6. Sirfoldalot

    Sirfoldalot Frisco.org Supporter Frisco.org Supporter

    Why not just lay the track normally and then cut a gap in the rail if your set on having jointed rail?

    Better yet: Just glue/solder fish plates to the sides?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 3, 2011
  7. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Hey Sherrel,

    Not saying that those are bad ideas, but I have a little problem which is better known as OCD and AR. It just won't let me do that...

    I'm working with Fast Tracks to see what options I have. I know I can come to a resolution. Since the Details West rail plates are pewter, I should be able to solder them to help make better electrical connections across the gaps.
     
  8. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Better yet: Just glue/solder fish plates to the sides?[/QUOTE]

    X 2
     
  9. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    That is an option. Mark each rail every 5" and then add the fish plates. Keep the rail continuous for electrical continuity, but give the impression of sectional rail. The only thing that will be missing is the wobble of the cars and the 'clickety-clack' of the metal wheels going over the joints. Hmm... Oh the agony of it all!
     
  10. klrwhizkid

    klrwhizkid Administrator Staff Member Administrator Frisco.org Supporter

    You could score the top of the rails with a jeweler's saw to create a "fake joint".
     
  11. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Well, I have some great news. Fast tracks confirmed to me that on their jigs, the 1st and 3rd PC Ties are 4 15/16" apart. This equates to a scale 36' rail section! Awesome! Jointed rail here I come! I can do it and it won't cost me any extra! Yay! Order to Fast Tracks, here it comes!
     
  12. Sirfoldalot

    Sirfoldalot Frisco.org Supporter Frisco.org Supporter

    You could score the top of the rails with a jeweler's saw to create a "fake joint".
     
  13. SAFN SAAP

    SAFN SAAP Member

    Yeah, I saw that Sherrel, but I'm really not up to that. I need to get straight cuts and the only way is to nip the rail. I am so happy that I can do 36' length track. I hope that it will turn out okay. I'm sure that the pewter will help with the continuity of the electrics, however, I will put feeder lines to help, especially since I'm doing DCC.
     

Share This Page