Did you look here? http://www.frisco.org/shipit/index.php?attachments/frisco-caboose-diagrams-pdf.12207/
Wheelsets, bearings, siderods. The kit is taking a lot of filing. I replaced the motor magnet with supermagnets. I've been running the motor some, too. Behind is an old New Ones/Aristocraft Mikado I picked up cheap, but the motor has some problems. Too bad, because the mechanism is very nice. I'm trying to fix it.
If I can fit one in the printers I'd be happy to get some out there for HO. I did check there - no diagrams (that I could find) of the 1400s or 1700s. But I did use the 1200s diagrams as reference for some of the dimensions however. -Mike
UV resin all the way. I've tried my hardest to make FDM printing work for rolling stock but could never dial it in to my satisfaction. This bugger has rivets! FDM is great for small buildings though. Mike
Mike, you might send a private message to our resident caboose expert Paul Slavens. He may have answers to your questions and reference material. Joe
Neat stuff guys! Mike: That caboose print seems to be very smooth. I've not seen such smoothness in prints before. Well done! Gary: Love seeing pictures of steam builds. Though time consuming as heck, they can be a lot of fun and return a lot of satisfaction when successful! All: All fer now. Off in a few to ride my dual sport in the mountains. While you poor slobs are having to slave at jobs n' such, I'll be out enjoying scenes like this: Thank God I'm a COUNTRY BOY! Outta' here. Andre
That looks great Mike. One of those has been on my HO wishlist. Can’t wait to see how this turns out.
I've been busy at the office with tax and audit seasons both in full swing. The weather finally broke a couple weeks ago and I was able to finish my first attempt at a b/y F7. Its not great but not terrible. As is, it would be good as a top shelf display where you can't see the paint bleed and inconsistant lines. The biggest issue was getting the band on the nose right. I ended up with a triangle instead of a bell curve. I'll probably strip it and try again after tax season passes.
Hey Ethan, what did you use for tape? I'd suggest after you apply the tape burnish it down with something like a bamboo skewer or even your fingernails. Also after you have it masked shoot a quick like coat of the base color (yellow here) on the model to seal the tape and any bleed through will match the color below. Also it might help a little on those to start the tape in the center and work to the ends, it will be easier to get the slack in the tape tight around the steps, ladders etc. Good luck, keep it up.
They were built from PS1 40' boxcars Hey Mike. Is your caboose 40 N scale ft long? 40' HO scale is like 5.5 " long, 1.6 " wide and about 2" tall near as I can tell. Will that fit into your printer?
I figured out the culprit after the fact. It was the vynl pinstripe tape i was using. It was the right size, but doesn't fit down over the small details of the shell. I did hit it with some more fellow after the tape was on, but it didn't help much
Build area is around 2.5 x 4.5 x 6.0 so technically it should fit. As I'm thinking about it I'd have to tweak the n-scale model after scaling up to reduce the thickness of the walls (as I made the nscale pretty hearty to ensure no warping) but I will try this after getting the n-scale one completely dialed in. Mike
Sweet!! Cant wait to get my hands on it, if that is possible! I wonder. Did they move the truck bolsters inward to accommodate the steps?
Not any modeling this week we are on vacation. But you can see where we ended up here. I have pics to add to the random photo fun when we get home. Enjoy, Steve
I'm putting the finishing touches on a Hallmark 1321 and an Overland wood cupola, wood caboose to put them on the market.