Workshop Wednesday

Question of the day: Has anyone used Tamiya Putty?
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87095-...YTY7HDH6W3QNNF
Is there any difference between Tamiya and Squadron Putty - I read someone's post that Tamiya was better?
Is there any difference betwee Squadron Green and Squadron White?

 

I have used both Sherrel and prefer the Squadron. BUT for what it is worth I use autobody spot putty I get several times more for the same amount of money or less and the same finished product.

 

I came to not like the "putty" type fillers. (Shrinkage, grain, etc.) I migrated to using Devcon 5 minute epoxy (the type in two separate squeeze tubes) to fill holes and seams. (Applied from underneath and pushed up to fill the hole/seam/etc.) The Devcon cures quick, chisels well with an X-acto chisel blade, and sands well. I then use AC to fill any hairlines that may show. AC also sands well. When finished, I have an invisible fill that is tough and durable.

Of course, your mileage may vary.

Andre

 

I like the Squadron putty. I have used the autobody spot putty, too, on metal kits. On plastic I stick to Squadron. Not sure what the difference is between green and white--I use white.

Here's Squadron on a Stewart F3--filling dynamic brake grills:



Primed:

 

That looks great Gary. Nice job.

Andre mentioned using CA for gap filling. I do that sometimes too, I also have an old liquid cement container that is filled with MEK and has a few little pieces of sprue dropped in it. It makes a liquid paste as the sprue dissolves . That way it is still plastic filling the gap. I try to put colored sprue in so it is easy to spot on the model to make sure it gets sanded correctly.

 

Thanks, Guys! See what happens when you get old? I had totally forgot about the "spruce/MEK" jar!
So much to learn - So little time!
Gary, love your work!

 

I

You're too kind. Wait till I try to decal--you'll be covering your eyes...

I have a jar of sprues and Xylene--it makes a super goopy filler. I used that on the underside of the low pan fans to help stick them on and fill gaps:

P1K F3B. I carved off the high top fans, shaved the grabs, and put on lift rings. Right now it's been primed and painted black. I was going to use by gna posted Feb 26, 2009 at 10:33 PM

 

A wee bit of progress on tbe BB projects.

 

Here is mine for the week. I finally got my pink cleared up enough to finish and mail Keiths projects.


For any of you that did not see it in Toms thread. He had asked what a modern Frisco covered hopper might look like. This was my take on it:



Since those I received an order of the Smokebox reflective stripes I got added:


Thanks for checking them out, Steve

 

Working on another layout track plan. I'll clean up the latest and post it - next week?
It's an E-shaped "walk-in" resulting in a point-to-point. I must avoid the temptation to cram in too much track.

 

OK, back in town this week. Didn't have any superglue with me last week, so finished brake wheels and rods on my freight cars:


(working on the kitchen table )

Some brake rigging on a MKT boxcar (replaced fishbelly) and flicker-free lighting on Bachmann PRR passenger car with LED strip:



Dropped the cap into the restroom; can hardly see it, and no flickering:



Dark:

 

Thanks! No wonder the PRR went under--no paying customers in that coach! Now I need passengers...

I have several Bachmann heavyweights that I've burned out the lightbulbs on DCC. Here's the circuit I used; Erieman47 on MRH posted it. I played around with different cap values and resistor values on a breadboard:


If I was using plain old LEDs I'd probably use 1K ohm resistors ahead of each LED and parallel them. In this case, a friend gave me the LED strip. I liked the sticky back tape on it, but I would have preferred warm white. I may buy a roll of those LED strips. For the second resistor I used a 3.9 K ohm to dim the LED strip some and a 2200 uf 25V cap I stripped from a junked circuit board at work. A 470 or 680 uf cap would be plenty to stop flickering. This one stays lit for awhile.

 

Neat stuff Gary.

 

Gary - That is awesome!

 

Been working on the river and inlet. I am in the process of cutting the rock castings and matching them to go on the sides of the river
Does anyone know if you can use ModPoge and Woodlands water products togather as in Deep Pour Water?

 

William, Like your choice of a backdrop!

 

I bought the backdrop from "Backdrop Junction" it's what I chose, but if you buy one from them, watch what you get, it had some flaw's in it. """So be careful."""