modelling a High Nose U25B

Has anyone kit bashed, or scratch built any of the Frisco High nose U25B's? I have two Stewart U25B low nose models I plan to make High nose units from them.

 

Richard,

Charlie Dischinger talks about kitbashing a U25B high nose using a couple of U25C shells from AHM in issue #35 of the old FMIG newsletters. The high nose could come from a second Stewart shell easy enough, I would think the toughest part would be the different style of steps on the high hood.

Brad

 

Brad,
Thanks I will look up the article. The high hood is no problem, I have purchased a high hood kit, but I agree the steps are going to be something else.

 

Richard,
I kitbashed a U25B from the Bowser kit. The steps aren't all that difficult as I cut the existing steps out and plated over the top opening with diamond plate (Cannon) and made a new vertical inner plate from thick styrene. It's then a matter of making the steps from thick styrene with a diamond plate overlay. I bought the high nose offered in Walthers but it was all wrong so I ended making a new one from sheet styrene but don't be like me and not slope the front nose (one of those things you notice as you're putting on the final paint) Be sure to use a thick styrene so all the corners can be rounded off. The doors can be adapted from Cannon doors. The number boards/light package can be kitbashed from another hood or it's just as easy to use styrene and make your own. For the area under the frame get out your Dremel and start cutting. I retained the front half of the tank and and fabbed a new back and notch from sheet styrene. I used Details West GEair tanks-not exact but pretty close. I had the most difficulty with the handrails. 2 new ones will have to be fabbed from the cab to the steps but you can use most of the rest. Build a jig to get your bends correct (the top of the vertical loop is the same heighth as the hand rail from the cab) and use wire the same diameter as the Bowser ones even if they are a might thick. Cut off the original vertical handrails to the first upright stanchion and adjust the new handrails to this point. It's not all that difficult a conversion and it makes a credible model. I would get as many photos as possible for reference.

 

Larry,
I did not know Bowser made a U25B kit, I bought mine from Stewart, perhapes the same thing?

 

Richard,
They're the same kit as Bowser bought Stewart. I failed to mention the obvious-the small hood goes away but the new high hood is the same length as short hood. You might want to consider bass wood to fab the roof to match the contour of the long hood and then use a thin sheet of styrene to make the access plate. Hope this helps.

 

Hey Tom, for what it is worth here is a large scale one I started a while back. You may have already seen it way back. I used the short hood, cut it laterally, then filled in between. Then wrapped it all in .010 styrene. I built a couple HO ones the same way but have gotten rid of them. I have thought for a while Shapeways is the way to go for these. If I trusted someone enough I have the brass oriental to use as a good pattern/scan. Keep us posted on your attempt, I have thought about a Stewart bash also for one. These are far and away my favorite diesel locomotive ever.

 

I have thought that same thing!

 

Tom, In case you didn't see the pm I sent you I'll repeat it for you: I ruined the model by stupidly overspraying it with red paint. However I had posted a photo before and the only place I can find on site is in my "bio" icon under messages-"U25Bs...". Hope this helps. Larry