Here we go with another project, gonna try to build a fair representation of the Frisco F9B 143 in B/Y as delivered paint. Based on a Highliner F unit shell this B unit will sit on a traditional BB frame and have the newer RTR hex drive. The SL-SF 147, here shown in O/W, has a Overland Models 9146 cooling coil. Had it for years before I used it (didn't even know what it fit). Of course none to be had , and not wanting to push my luck asking for one here, decided to just to try and make the part. Used .019 brass wire and .020X.020 styrene with paper using ACC, I bent and glued the wire and paper strips to the mounting blocks, took about 3 hrs, what a pain. The trucks are shown with the square and sloped journal boxes added. Carefully cut the journal boxes and pedestal liners from the factory side frames. Then glued DA 2806 (sloped journals) and DA 2805 (square journals) on the side frames according to the photos, also used a set of DA 2809 brake cylinder lines, then primed. I use the factory metal wheels and axles to get the coupler heights and shell mounting done, then install old Athearn plastic dummy axles for painting and weathering. Now to break a few #79 drill bits on the shell for the eye bolts, grab irons and such. Have a detail package to add to this shell and frame. Just getting started on this little project. Thanks for looking,
Tom, one tool that I bought that helps prevent broken tiny drill bits is this Tamiya drill. It comes as a kit but is great for using those tiny bits. There's more info here: http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/11404
Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words. Hi Keith, Thats cool, I like tools and dont have this one , it shows there needs to be a modification to hold #80 bits. Have you done the modification?
For future reference Cal-Scale has the cooling coil. Part #190-556. http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/190-556 Might save you some scratchbuilding if you decide to make more F9s. Ray
Thanks Ray, Now you tell me . I cant seem to find an image of the cooling coil. Is it the long one? There are shorter ones shat loop a few more times. I just want to make sure before I order a few. I could call Bowser, but would like to hear if you have used the coils. Thanks for the info, always learning something here.
Hey, Tom, you are in luck. The cooling coils are the long ones. Look on page three of the Cal Scale catalog on the Bowser site. They look like they are just what one would need to model an F9. Terry
Thanks Terry I finally figured it out and yep like you and Ray say, they are what I am looking for, got a few on order. They had a few other items I was looking for to. Thanks a bunch
A couple progress photos. Finally got all those miserable etched door inserts on and the details for this loco, pretty simple, those Highliner shells are a pleasure to work with. Now a coat of white primer, then the Yellow on the sides, mask the Yellow stripes, and then the Black, coming right along. Bent all the hand rails but will wait till the painting is done before adding. Hi Tech details MU hoses will also be added on the ends. DW 209 detail kit, DW 123 spark arrestors, .012 steel wire for hand rails and cut bars. High Tech Details 6034.
If someone decides to go with the modifications, I can provide the adapter that will make the chuck hold Dremel collets securely.
Anyone know if these F9B, or any B units for that matter, got builders plates? I can't find pics showing plates as yet. Also did these get numbers on the ends as well? Can't see any of these either, of course they may be so small, I cant see them.
Tom, Viewed pictures of other railroads that had F9B units, it appears that no builder plate was on them. As for the numbers on the ends, if you are painting it b/y scheme, I would put them on. Regards, John
Thanks John, I am looking at a photo, and it appears there may be a set of numbers on the end about a foot up from the end sill, a few inches in from the side, they are so small you can barely make them out even blowing up the picture.
Tom - I can't confirm anything as my diagrams and pics are in St Louis and I am in Florida. But, I think the F3's, F7's and F9's did have, at least once, small numbers on the end bulkhead(s). My reasoning - on the Athearn F7A and F7B, that I did years ago, hand painted before I had an airbrush (pics of them are in my album), I did put on end numbers - small, white numbers. I recall somewhere I had evidence that was legit - I don't recall if that was supported by a pic or two, or if I was told that by our veterans in Springfield. Anyway, the numbers are still on there. I must admit, though, I've never put these end numbers on the other units I've done. One bit of related possible evidence, with some logical specifics. I believe the as-painted "Racehorse" E7's and E8's also did have small unit numbers on the ends of the body. Refer to the E8 painting diagrams for the details. What we need is a painting diagram for the F's. Did those exist? I've never seen one. Regarding the builder's plates - don't know, good question. I'll have to pour through some pics to see what I can offer as evidence. Ken