M of W flat cars

Discussion in 'Flatcars' started by gjslsffan, May 23, 2015.

  1. magistrate

    magistrate Member

    Tom, those pictures of your work are great. It is like looking at pictures of the prototype.
     
  2. Ozarktraveler

    Ozarktraveler Member

    Tom,

    Would love to post a couple of these pics on F/B, maybe use one as a cover pic. With due credit given of course, and with your permission.
     
  3. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member Staff Member

    Hi Robert, It is soo easy for me to over due the weathering, and these took several different layers of weathering and decals to try and simulate different stencils being added over the years LOL.
    Thank You.

    Sure I am good with it Craig, no problem at all. Glad you enjoyed them.


     
  4. Ozarktraveler

    Ozarktraveler Member

    Thank you... :)
     
  5. Oldguy

    Oldguy Member Frisco.org Supporter

    ¤¤¤¤, those are fine looking models. I thought that you had posted photos of the prototype for reference, then . . . BOOM! Models.
     
  6. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member Staff Member

    Thanks Bob,
    Thats a nice thing to say, I appreciate the comments.

    I would like to thank some folks for their help.
    William Jackson for willingness to share his experience with us all on this kind of stuff.
    Also to My my friend Ken Wulfert for his information and visual aids lol.
    Karl Brand for his photos and knowledge, that he is so willing to share.
    Sure I left someone out and for that my apologies.
    I had a lot of fun doing this.
     
  7. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member Staff Member

    Here are a few more MW flats, the Oxide Red which is Model Masters (MM) British Crimson, It is Flat and same as Floquil Oxide Red, according to the color chart on Microscale's website. Anyways the Red one is a 40 Athearn BB flat, just took it out to a 4" belt sander ground a bunch of the underbelly off to make it look more realistic used a pounce wheel to simulate the rivets on the ground off area, then ground off the cast on wood deck, which took a while as you have to basically just run it across the belt so the plastic doesn't get hot and gum up your belt, that thinned the whole thing down to a more palatable thickness, after replacing all the hand grabs and steps I glued on a Tichy brake, painted decaled put a laser cut wood deck on it weathered it up, put a set of Accurail trucks under have a 40' MW flat.

    The two Yellow cars are Red Caboose now Intermountain cars, soda blasted the markings, painted decaled and weathered too. Anyway think I will hold off putting rails on these till I see what is going on them. I need to hand lay some rail sections to load one of these with I think.
    Thanks for stopping by and havin a look.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

    • 003.jpg
      003.jpg
      File size:
      54.2 KB
      Views:
      50
    • 002.jpg
      002.jpg
      File size:
      56.4 KB
      Views:
      48
    • 006.jpg
      006.jpg
      File size:
      64.2 KB
      Views:
      47
  8. Jim James

    Jim James Staff Member Staff Member

    Nice work. You have great attention to detail. How do you soda blast. A miniature sandblasting tool of sorts that uses baking soda?
     
  9. gjslsffan

    gjslsffan Staff Member Staff Member

    Thats it Jim
    Paasche makes a tool shaped like their air brushes, instead of using the aluminum oxide I use just pain old baking soda as it takes the paint off without hurting the plastic underneath. I do it outside cause the soda goes everywhere, just make sure to run the soda thru a real fine screen, and wear a mask as you dont want to get the soda in your lungs. If you take your time, you can remove lettering from the car and still have the paint intact.
     

Share This Page