Don't Fear Resin or Building a Westerfield Sawtooth Boxcar

Manny, I'm just a rebel. I've been sloppy modeling for 40 years and by golly I still dig my results, tap water and all. Anyhoos, here's a better pic of the decal job. That decal solution is already snugging things down quite nicely. Once they are faded and weathered the difference will be amazing. Next will be the final installment of this saga. Oh the joy of quick and dirty modeling.

 

Jim, if this is sloppy modeling, I can't wait to see your "A" game. Excellent work. I've also picked up a few tips along the way.

Best Regards,

 

Thanks, Chris. I guess by "sloppy modeling" I mean that I don't usually follow the accepted methods that are considered the industry standard. I like to experiment with different materials and techniques and buck the system on a whim. In Manny's defense he is absolutely correct about the proper techniques he's mentioned. I'm just not very proper Please refer to my disclaimers in previous posts. I certainly am not a certified Master Modeler.

 

I find that our modeling techniques probably mirror each other, Jim. I have a bad habit of trying something out to see if it will work, especially if I have it on hand.

To wit: the mastic(?) that one uses to affix ceramic tile to the wall can also be used for concrete roadways. It's not the best material but I had it on hand and with concrete coloring and expansion joints carved in, it's good enough.

I also do appreciate good feedback of the kind that Manny provides. I remember having a similar conversation with Rick McClellan a few years back: feedback provided or suggestions given is not a criticism but an attempt to make us better modelers and better craftsmen (Rick, are you out there? Haven't seen you on the board in a while).

Regardless, your modeling efforts are moving at a much faster clip than mine!

Best Regards,

 

You guys are indeed awesome. That's what makes this forum the best of the best. I'm not thin skinned, just set in my ways. For example, Manny is a professional grade model builder and my hats off to you. I may get a decal slightly askew but that just goes with territory for my style of creativity. Like a good painting. Looks great from a proper viewing distance but look up close and the illusion fades quickly. This whole Zalma Branch project is just a time machine to transport me back to the past. I'm just going for the overall illusion instead of clinical sterility and exactness. I have to make time for my other hobbies: reloading and shooting black powder rifle cartridges, flintlock rifle building and shooting, Jeeping, hiking, gardening and pen and ink drawing. That's why I model like there's no tomorrow during the winter. These build threads reflect my particular style of railroad modeling. Not to be taken as how to articles for those looking to build prize winning first rate models. I would happily recommend Manny's work for those folks. He is very accurate and skilled. That's why I include my disclaimers. I know what level I'm on and I'm comfortable with that. Stay tuned later for the final installment on my resin kit build. Hang in there with me.

 

The camera is very good at pointing out imperfections. I should have photographed the other side.

 

Sounds like a good enough excuse, Manny. Surely it wasn't my janky modeling skills
As promised, I'll pretty much wrap this project up. I'll get right to it. You can see in the first photos that I added some white paint under the lettering to represent some weathering effects. It will tone down greatly in the blending and weathering stage. Also I taped the door in the closed position for the weathering process so that it will look more realistic when opened later.

Again I taped a stick inside the body for a handle and then airbrushed a light mist of boxcar red over the decals until I got the faded effect I was looking for. Be careful! If I was modeling a newer car I would have barely misted it but I'm going for an old, tired car that is pretty much relegated to branch line use, mainly tie hauling in this case. After blending the decals I airbrushed earth color paint along the bottom to represent the effects of the dusty earthen road bed. Most of the metal was painted burnt umber with raw sienna and rust colored chalk dust was brushed on to make this old girl look pretty tired. Finally I added the detailed floor showing the rough planked floor boards and some ties scattered about.

 

Ok. Here's a quicky.

 

Yes it does look crazy dangerous but I actually saw this being done in two different old photos. Glad to hear you might be encouraged to try a resin kit. Thanks. Makes this thread worth it after all. The ale is optional of course.

 

Jim -
What technique did you use for the rust dripping down from the top of the door? Drybrushing? Airbrushing?

That's also the type of scene that gives underwriters the heebie jeebies.

Best Regards,

 

Iron men and wooden boxcars! The rust is fun to add. I have a rust colored piece of chalk that I rub over sandpaper to form a pile of rust powder. Then I use a very small paint brush to dab and drag it in strategic places. This works best on a flat, dull surface with tooth. It doesn't cling well to glossy surfaces. You can remove it with a brush and water if it doesn't go well. Dull coat tends to reduce the effect a bit so I put it on a bit heavy so that it shows up better after the final Dull Coat application.