Walthers - JL Innovative Design Red Rock Water Tower - Kit (Laser-Cut Wood) $26.95 Not exactly tall enough, but is it close enough to the prototype? It's as close as I've been able to find. What do you think? The cone top would have to be replaced.
As with many model structures, they do not have to be exact replicas to provide recognition of a landmark.
This one may be a bit closer - http://www.micromark.com/ho-scale-small-steel-industrial-water-tank,10300.html You would still have to futz with it a bit.
This is actually the Tichy Train Group Water Tank that Micro-Mark is selling. http://tichytraingroup.com/index.php?page=view_product.php&id=604&category=Structures
While looking on the Micro-Mark site, I realized they are produced by Tichy Train Group. I did an ebay search for "Tichy small water tank." Sorted the search by price+shipping = lowest to hightest. I bought one and should have it soon! Thanks again, Robert.
I'm almost done with the assembly of the Tichy Train Group, Small Water Tank that I bought from ebay. The kit came with a lot of stuff that simply isn't on the prototype I'm modeling. However, almost everything I needed was in the kit. The only major thing I had to do different was to leave off the cone shaped top and replace it with something flat... the plastic top of a Pringles can. Almost all of the kit was molded in gray so it will all have to be Testors spray painted wth some shade of black or brown to get that current "rusty black" look. As soon as I'm done, I will post a photo. - Brandon
Well I have ditched the idea of using the plastic from a Pringles can lid. It didn't stick...as some of you may have already known. You never know until you try. Looks like some styrene is in the water tank's near future.
Rix products makes a flat tank top for their water tanks, perhaps an n scale top could be made to work. Tony L.
Brandon, I'm not sure if you could trace the top of the tank onto a sheet of appropriate-thickness styrene, and then cut the circle out and cement to the tank? Either a modified drawing compass to cut out the circle, or even freehand-cutting with a #11 blade and then sanding off any points might be a way to go. Best Regards,
I agree. I got just a little too impatient and wanted to try to use something I already had on hand. I love to salvage things when possible. I guess I'm just too plain cheap. HA! My dad says, "A lesson learned is better than one told."
Here it is. You can also see it in a video I'm about to post on the thread, "How Do You Model Buildings?"