How do I cut openings into this: http://www.frisco.org/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=9432&d=1258310058 to make it look like this: http://images.search.yahoo.com/imag...&sigr=11evk842f&sigi=11gldoll6&sigb=13d60tdh6
My methodology would involve cutting the sidewalls at an appropirate point nearly bisecting the windows and then cutting a slice or appropriate size out of the wall above the windows and splicing it in, cutting out the openings where the windows exist.
I'm curious to hear other's techniques. Without knowing the thickness of the kit's walls, I'd likely start with scribing lines repeatedly (possibly on the front using the bricks as a guide, along with my metal straight edge) until I could snap the sections. There might be other faster methods (such as a Dremel-type cutting wheel at a very low speed so that the plastic doesn't start to melt). However, I'd be concerned that a bump or shake would really mess things up. I prefer slow-and-steady to ensure a clean cut. Best Regards,
I have a Fiskars Paper Cutter that is next to me here in the office that I have looked at many times wondering if it could be used to scribe plastic siding. It will hold a full size sheet of paper and has a roller blade that is about 1" or so in diameter. It also will adjust to various thickness's. I believe that I purchased it at Sam's and here is the one they currently carry that most closely resembels it. http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?dest=5&item=415940 The only drawback is that it costs about $52.00.
For the wall bi-sectioning, I would use a very sharp knife blade (more like a scalpel or x-acto #11) and score along a straight edge in a horizontal mortar joint. Do not use much pressure; you don't want the plastic to part in such a way that you produce a rise on each side of the score line. I would recommend practicing on a sheet of blank styrene first. Once you have scored nearly half of the way through, you can place a dowel under the score or place the score along the sharp edge of a board or countertop and place pressure downward on both sides of the score evenly and slowly. The piece will eventually separate. You can ease the process along by continuing to score as the score line opens. The key thing is going slowly and deliberately.
The Testors #8801 hobby knife is much sharper than the X-Actos. It has a permanently attached plastic handle and non-replacable blade also a plastic blade cover to protect the tip (And user). When it gets too dull for hobby work, you can use it to open packaging or other uses around the house or kitchen. Tom
Fiskars also makes a very inexpensive roller knife that is used by crafters and quilters. The advantage over an Xacto knif is the blade is much thinner. Also, stores sell Xacto type knives with blades that act like a cartridge and just snap off when then are dull and you push a new one forward out of the handle. All of these options will work, but as Keith points out, practice and go very slowly.
